Autotrol Valve Leaking to Drain after Replacing Valve Discs

Customer Writes:

After installing new flapper valve disc set in my Autotrol Valve,  I checked the function before powering up timer. The values all seemed to work. I then turned the water flow back on and have a flow from the drain line. I removed the cam and checked the flapper by hand each seems to close and open properly.
What is your suggestion?

** One of the Rear Valve Discs is not sealing ( last 2 are the Backwash, and the 3rd from last is Purge - Forward Rinse ).

This could be debris that flowed up into the head, or it could be cracked plastic inside the valve body where the valve disc "rest" and "seal" when closed ( standing straight up ).

** Recommend removing top plate ( all those little screws on top ) and valve discs ( they pull straight up and out ) and make a close inspection with a flash light for any signs of debris, or a cracked "port" inside the valve body.

** Repair may be as simple as clearing the debris ( which can be media from the tank, or some other odd thing ), or if valve body is cracked, then the valve body will need to be replaced ( if still available ), or complete valve head can be replaced by compatible current version of a similar Autotrol Valve. Email us for further assistance if this is the case ( cracked internal valve port ).

Follow up on Culligan Valve Replacement Question

Does the resin tank come with the tube that goes into it?

 

* Valve comes with new Bottom Distributor to make a new center distributor pipe,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.valvereplacement

 

and how do you know what valve fits what tank?

 

* All Fleck and Autotrol Valves fit "standard" tanks ( which all tanks are standard unless you own a Culligan or Sears water softener ).

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/3100.media_tanks/

 

and for more about Resin replacing and Sizes of Tanks, and Quantity of Resins,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.resinreplacement

 

Culligan Valve Replacement Question

QUESTION: I got a Culligan Medallist Series water softener and i want to get away from culligan. What valve would replace the one I got.

* Sorry, none ( directly ).

All true Culligan Valves and Tanks have threads that are Proprietary.

Nothing else will fit on the tank. They designed everything about their systems to be proprietary ( thus requiring all parts and service to come through only their authorized Culligan Dealers ).

You can buy a new Valve ( The Fleck 5600 is our recommendation ).

5600 12 day softener control

AND a new Tank ( common one cu.ft. size would require a 9 x 48 tank ).

Tank: 9 x 48

And then dump the resins into the new tank, and then screw the new valve onto the new tank.

The brine tank can be re-used ( only requiring purchase of 3/8" brine tubing and an adapter

Elbow, 1/4 f x 3/8 c Fitting Plastic Jaco - our PN 584564NO .

For additional help guides on Valve Replacement and Resin Replacement ( or re-use ), please refer to our Website www.softenerparts.com ( and the "Do It Yourself Repairs" section ).

QUESTION: Does the resin tank come with the tube that goes into it?

* Valve comes with new Bottom Distributor to make a new center distributor pipe,

see:

http://softnerparts.com/category/6600.valvereplacement

and how do you know what valve fits what tank?

* All Fleck and Autotrol Valves fit "standard" tanks ( which all tanks are standard unless you own a Culligan, Ecowater, or Sears type water softener ).

see:

http://softnerparts.com/category/3100.media_tanks/

and for more about Resin replacing and Sizes of Tanks, and Quantity of Resins,

see:

http://softnerparts.com/category/6600.resinreplacement

Water Soft WSCB-32D water softener = Autotrol Valve Links

To my knowledge the Water Soft units ( WSCB-32D water softener ) use the Autotrol Valve made by the GE Water Treatment / Autotrol division.

The "CB" stands for Cabinet.

The "32D", stands for 32,000 grain capacity ( one cu.ft. of resin used ) and Demand regeneration timer assembly ( typical the 460i ).

And the most common valve is the Autotrol 255 with the 460i Timer Assembly ( made after 1995, prior years would be the 155 valve ).

For Helpful guides On our website ( www.softenerparts.com ),

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.autotrol_service_hints.255w460i

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/0600/

and for manuals in pdf form for downloading on valve manufacturer's website;

See: http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/

Look at the 255 Valve / 400 Series Controls

and the 460i Electronic Control System Operation

How and Why to use Acid Neutralizing Media Calcite and Corosex ( Mangnesium Oxide )

If the water's pH is less then nuetral ( 7.0 ), then correction is required to prevent the water from corriding the metal in your plumbing.

Most common "symptoms" are blue stains from dissolved copper pipes, and iron staining problems from the water dissolving any iron ( in pipes or pumps or well casings ) that is has come in contact with.

A filter tank ( usually 10" x 54" ) is filled with either Calcite or Corosex ( Magnesium Oxide ).

Both are used to "raise" the pH of water that is acidic.

Which one and how much to use depends on the pH of your water. Calcite ( which is really just cushed marble ) dissolves slowly and is used when the pH is between 6.0 - 6.8 to raise to 7.0 - 7.5.

If the starting pH of the source water is less then 6.0, then Corosex may be needed as it dissolves faster.

And it is common to use a "mix" of 50/50 Calcite and Corosex.

These are media that must be ADDED to the Filter Tank every year ( anywhere from 6 months to no more than 2 years ).

And the way to "tell" is by checking the pH before and after the filter tank.

Also, you can measure the amount of media in the tank.

Normally the tank should be "filled" to about 60% full ( and not more, or you end up with media clogging the Valve during Backwash ), and not less than 30% full.

And note, there is always 5 - 8 inches of gravel used at the bottom of the tank as an "under bedding".

Occasionally the media becomes hard, and must be dumped and refilled with "fresh" media.

Or it becomes iron "fouled" and a complete re-bedding is the best way to improve the water quality.

This type of filter tank is almost always followed by a water softener used to remove the "hardness" added by the filter tank ( as the media dissolves it increases the hardness in the water ), and the softener can help remove iron that is often in the water.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/23A802101/Calcite_50_lbs_Bag_12_Cu_Ft.html

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/23A8011/Corosex_50_lbs_Bag_23_cubic_foot__23A8011.html

 

Common Tanks sizes and amount of media to use are:
9" x 48" = 15 lbs. Gravel and 1.0 cu.ft. media
10" x 54" = 20 lbs. Gravel and 1.5 cu.ft. media

Why We Prefer Email Inquiries Over Phone Calls

For the fastest assisting with trouble shooting your water softener / filter problem, we strongly encourage you email us. Please include your brand or valve type, and a description of the problem and what you have tried so far to solve it.

* Please email if you need additional product information before ordering.
Email will be answered daily ( Our staff of technicians answer the emails through out the day and late into the night ), so please send your questions.

******************** Emailed questions works well, because we can usually provide a WRITTEN answer quickly by referring to answers on the website. So expect to get one or more LINKS to the information you need. These also include video guides. 95% of all inquiries are similar, and we have the ANSWER already somewhere on the website. These thought out answers to common problems and questions will be supplied to you by email, and you will have plenty of time to absorb the information and then write back if you have specific questions or you require additional information.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Second reason email is prefered, is time factor ( much quicker - allowing us to respond to the needs of more people in any given day ). It is easier to answer a question once in written form as opposed to repeating the answer 3 times on the phone ( as has sometimes been the case ).

Again, we prefer you email us as oppose to phoning us, because the volume of inquiries otherwise becomes impossible to properly manage.
* All customers are instantly given our customer support phone number with their online receipt at the end of Check Out.

* So, I encourage you to email your questions or concerns. You'll generally be surprised how fast you get a reply.

Click Here to E-mail Questions, support@softenerparts.com > * If you have questions about a particular order, please include your order number.

Clogged Injector in Iron Filter

Customer writes:

Thanks for your help.  The problem is described in detail below, but the short version is that I couldn't get the Potassium Permanganate to draw during the regeneration cycle, even after I checked the injection valves.   Your advice was essentially, "check them again, because they're the problem 99% of the time".  So I did, and you were right.  I'm writing this email to give you some feedback which may help others.

 

The green sand system - when I first checked the injection valve, it appeared clear.  I could see a nice round hole.   BUT, I didn't suspect that although I could see a hole, that it should have been Bigger.  When I inspected the second time, I again saw the hole, but used probe to scrape the walls and found a uniform crusty buildup.  When cleaned, the hole was twice the diameter!  It now draws fine.

 

 

Fleck 5600 Still Getting Stuck After Replacing the Pistons and Seals Kit

CUSTOMER WRITES:

I have purchased parts for my fleck 5600 system before and I am again having trouble.

The timer still gets STUCK.

I have rebuilt it ( new Pistons and Seals Kit ) twice and now am not sure what to do. Unit is from 2002. Please call me.

** After talking to you I think it is just the Timer Motor. They can get "weak" and not be able to drive through the regeneration cycle.

And the motors used by Fleck from around 2000 - 2003 all had plastic drive gears that would not hold up well under pressure ( they begin to "wobble" and jump off the Idler Gear they "drive" ).

So, the next most likely step would be to REPLACE the Timer Motor ( avialable in 120 volt or 24 volt versions ). see: http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3418743 And here is a LINK to the Video showing how easy it is to change. see: http://softenerparts.info/2008/06/18/replacing-the-timer-motor--187431--on-fleck-5600-valve.aspx

***** Other Possible Causes of the Valve Sticking or being Stiff

** Some water is really "ruff" ( high in minerals and iron ), and will wear out ( and create build up ) the Pistons and Seals every couple of years. And they would need to be replaced more often than "average" ( which is in the 5 - 10 year range ). ** If the pistons and seal are new ( or almost new ) and the Valve is still stiff to turn, then you want to check two things. 1 ) Front Knob, as it can "split" where it attaches to the main gear shaft and cause drag then cycling around. You must remove the label to get to the screw in the center. Remove and inspect. see: http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3414177/Front_Knob_For_5600.html 2 ) Check the plastic "housing" where the Main Shaft Gear passes through the body. This area holds to small ball bearings that rest on springs, and sometimes the plastic cracks in this area. The result is "binding" under the pressure of regeneration cycling. Replacing the Housing ( transferring all parts from your old one to the new one ), or you can replace the Power Head ( cost more, but a lot easier ). see: http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3413170/Gear__Main_Gear_And_Shaft_For_5600__3413170.html and http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3413162010/Housing_wpin_Fleck_5600__3413162010.html

CUSTOMER INPUT that might help some BINDING issues ( when no visible damage is observed after taking valve a part and inspecting all the plastic parts ). Just for your information, in case some one else experiences this. After tearing this unit apart a couple of times, and not seeing any damage, and it still not cycling properly and hanging up. I noticed that on the Main Gear and Shaft, pn # 13170, there was a powder residue, where it seemed to have been rubbing against the housing bore. I took some silicon grease and lubricated the shaft. Now for the past month and a half or more I have not had the unit stop, or lose time again.

Parts - Culligan

Can you get Culligan parts or recommend where?

* ** Sorry, but we can not provide parts or service information for Culligan systems.

Culligan systems are 100% proprietary.

Parts and Service are only available from your local authorized Culligan Dealer.

 

Tectonic Water Softener Model # CB-32D

I am trying to locate a parts list & schematics for the

Tectonic Water Softener Model #CB-32D.

 

I have called the following Tectonics and was referred

to a company it had be sold to: CSI: Water Soft. Water Soft

in turn referred me to your company Softenerparts.com

 

*****

Tectonic was a proprietary Valve used on a line of cabinet model system.

We do not have ( but are trying to get ) the parts diagram ( schematics ) for this unit.

We do have several photos sent to use by owners of this system.

The Valve was made by Fleck ( now part of Pentair Water Treatment ), and the Valve Body is based on the Fleck 5600, which we have all the parts and diagrams for.

So, if the problem is in the lower portion of the Valve, or with the By Pass, you will find these parts under our Fleck 5600 parts section,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/1100.fleck5600parts/

 

* If the problem is with the Drive Assembly ( power head ), it would need to be replaced entirely with the Fleck 5600 Econominder ( metered ) power head ( D = metered, or Demand ).

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3460354/Power_Head__5600_Metered_Standard__Control_Valve_Drive__3460354.html

 

NOTE: The Tectonic Cover will NOT fit the Fleck 5600 power head, but the cover is really an option not required for indoor installation.

Covers are available for the Fleck 5600 Standard and "L" Designer power heads we sell.

 

OR another option is to replace the ENTIRE valve with a new COMPLETE Fleck 5600 Econominder Valve.

Retaining the use of the Tanks, Resin, and By Pass of the Tectonics.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3405600102

 

 

North Star or Sears Valve - Error 3 after replacing motor

  I have a Kenmore water softener with a few problems. I replaced the motor a few months ago. Worked fine until recently. I got a error 3 code, which I believe is motor torque. I removed the motor and still has the code after clearing it. Any ideas?

 

* Motor failure is sometimes caused by the "drag" caused by the Rotor Disc and Seal Kit.

It is often NECESSARY to Rebuild the moving parts and not just replace the motor when stalling occurs.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/7199232/Rotor_Disc_Sears_GE_NorthStar_7199232_7103964_WS26X10002.html

 

Hopefully you have not damaged the new motor yet, and rebuilding the valve will be enough to fix the valve.

 

Error Code 3 can also be the switch,

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/7030713/Switch__7030713_WS21X10003.html

 

and see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/2600.sears.troubleshooting/

 

 

H2OW TO Softener = Fleck 5600 SE valve on 10 x 19 tank in cabinet

* Customer wrote in looking for replacement tank for HOW TO ( H2ow To ) softener:

Andrew,The hole in the top is approx.2 3/4" across-the overall height is 18 3/4" tall - outer diameter is approx.

10" - and the circumference is approx.32 1/2" around.

 

* After viewing photos of valve and tank, I replied:

 

The Valve is the Fleck model 5600 SE with Fleck's plastic by pass ( 60049 ) and yoke.

All standard design and parts.

The Tank is standard opening ( standard  2 1/2" x 8 NPT opening looks like 2 3/4" ).

The height is unusual. Very short.

Do you have your heart set on a 10" x 18"?

I'd say yours is 10" x 19", judging from the photo.

I found a 10" x 19" fiberglass used for small hot water softeners, and this may be available ( at almost double the cost of the "standard" size tanks we sell ).

 

Your unit only holds 1/2 cu.ft. of resin in it ( 16,000 grains ).

Enough for average city water  or well water with no iron and hardness less than 20 grains.

 

A low cost replacement would be the 10" x 35" tank.

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/60RT1035/Tank__10_x_35_Polyglass_No_Base_Almond.html

 

It could be shipped with a Base ( no extra charge ), and stand next to your brine cabinet, or without base in the cabinet, but you would have to leave the top off, as the new height would be much taller than your small cabinet.

 

And you could technically double your resin capacity to One Cu.Ft. with this tank ( that is what "normal" size cabinet softeners use, 10" x 35" and 1 cu.ft. resin ).

 

And you could use the free standing ( with base ) 8" x 44" tank and use up to 3/4 cu.ft. of resin.

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/86844HTP/Tank__8_x_44_Almond_Polyglass_wBase.html

 

*REPAIR PARTS for How To system:

And if you ever need parts for your valve, they would be listed under Fleck 5600 parts, or some items are "special" for the SE ( simple electronics ) version, and would be best "Searched" using the term "5600SE" in the product search box.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/1100.fleck5600parts/

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/346065200/Timer_Circuit_Board_SE_Fleck_60652_or_42099_or_40283__346065200.html

 

Autotrol Brine Refill Problem - No water in salt tank

Does the tank float have to touch the bottom of the tank to siginal the autotrol to put water into the brine tank

* No.

or is it metered after the brine is injected into the softener ( I'm wondering if the float is in the wrong position)

* Float is to prevent OVERFLOWING, and does not control refill.

Refill is a "timed" cycle ( at the end of the regeneration process ),

AND

The "flow" rate of this timed refill is controlled by the Brine Control Dial.

This sometimes gets clogged and requires cleaning ( it unscrews from the Valve Body ). * Also, note:

There is one of your two flow control balls ( 4F ) sitting inside behind it ( refer to parts diagram of the valve body ).

And unscrewing is all there is to removing the control from the valve body.

And once removed you will see if there is any debris blocking the small white teeth openings ( they are what "regulate" the amount of water that get past during REFILL Cycle ).

See:

http://www.softenerparts.com/Brine_Control_Dial_3_19_lbs_1F_19_or_1034263_p/ap1f19.htm

Visual Guide for Installing Rotor Disc and Seal Kit Sears Type Valve

See animation from the Morton softener site - the link is below.  Their
softener is another variant of the Ecowater/NorthStar/Sear/GE Smartwater type system.  The animations are almost identical to the animations on the Kenmore site, except the Morton animation also shows the flow paths, disassembly and reassembly of the complete valve body, including all the o-rings.  It also shows the complete float assembly - Kenmore site doesn't show either of these assemblies last time I checked.

After the link is pulled up you have the option to run program - I had to
click the button twice - may just be my browser but I figured I'd mention
it.
http://www.systemsaver.com/morton-website/instructions/index.html

 

Replacing motor in the 440i Timer Assembly

I bought an electric motor for my autotrol 440i. I can not figure out how to remove the motor. There is no screw in this one only a clip at the top and bottom. I can not turn it to remove it. Help!

 

* You must take the case a part from the front ( remove tripper arm gear and skipper wheel ), carefully unsnapping the gray cover from the black back plate. Press the black output "button" in as you pull cover up from the bottom.

THEN you can remove the two gears above the motor from the INSIDE, and you will be able to turn the motor from the back and remove ( once you've taken the gears out that prevent the motor from being turned from the rear ). Re-assembly is the reverse.

It's a bit of a "pain", but it can be done. Just take your time with it.

Sears Valve Body drips at INLET

Customer Writes:

I have a Sears water softener.  Model 625.348590

It is leaking where the supply side water inlet goes into the top valve body.  Just drip drip drip all the time.  quite a bit of water.   I believe I need to get part number 7082053 ( Valve Body standard ).  That is the part in the Sears web site schematic.  I need to check something on that part though.

looking at this image, the top left is the inlet and the bottom left is the outlet.  Inside the inlet, just behind the clip slot (about an inch in from the top left), there is a little "step" that the mating part "butts" up against.  On mine, one side of this is smooth while the "step" goes about 3/4 of the way around.  I think over 10 years of hard water, the "step" on that side has "eroded" away.  I believe that is where the water seeps out since there is nothing for the mating part to butt up against on that side.

Can you check and see that the parts your parts have the step molded into the inlet side and that it goes all the way around the inside of the hole ?

If you look down the "throat" of the inlet, the circle on the left is what mine looks like now.  The circle on the right is how I think it should look. I think the water leaks out where there is no step anymore.

 

***************

    Thanks for the detailed explanation and diagram. 

* I checked the Valve Bodies we have in stock. They ALL are made the way you describe.

The inner portion of the Inlet has a "step" that only goes around 3/4 of the way. The Outlet is 100%.

And I noticed the larger version valve bodies ( 7171145 ) have NO "step".

I believe the KEY to not leaking is the Oring ( 7170288 ) and the condition of the Plastic valve body.

They are regular plastic, so over time they can warp or crack.

We have been selling a lot of these every month. So, your problem is fairly common.

Sears and GE Smartwater - Water Not Soft - Distributor Oring problem and solution

Sears Kenmore, NorthStar, and GE Smartwater softeners use the same clamp to tank valve for the past 15 plus years. On occasion the distributor oring that fits on the outside of the riser pipe will slip up and off the center pipe in the resin tank.

Here is the way one customer solved this problem ( problem caused by the pipe being just a little too short ).

*

I pulled the central tube out completely with the bottom distributor ( # 10 and # 11 ) and cleaned it.  Since I needed approximately 1/8" extension to prevent the O-ring ( # 7 ) from slipping out at the top, I cut the tube at two places, about 10" central piece, keeping at least 6" at the top piece in order to be able to slip the top distributor ( # 9 ) on top without hitting the inserted coupler.  I used two 3/4" PVC couplers to glue the three pieces together.  This extended the length by 1/8" (each coupler has a central shoulder of 1/16").  Waited till the joint dried and lowered the tube into the tank.  While lowering, some resins oozed out of the tank, may be couple of handfuls.  Carefully assembled the rest of the parts and then started the recharge. Glad to say it is working fine so far.  I waited till it recharged and soft water is flowing once again before writing this E-mail.

I would say this may also be possible to extend by using only one 3/4"  PVC coupler, but you will need to carefully judge the amount of "extension" you need to add to prevent the oring from slipping off the top.

This problem is most common on city water because of the higher water pressure and the chlorine causing the resins to swell, but can occur on any type water, since the primary issue is the pipe being a little bit short.

 

Figure "B" with the O-ring over the outside of the pipe is CORRECTLY installed.
Figure "A", with O-ring on top is WRONG.

Low Pressure Through Softener On Well Water

PROBLEM:

Our water comes from a well and is not chlorinated.  The water pressure is good coming in but no pressure coming out.   What is the problem?

 

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

1 ) A filter ( used in 12 inch housing ) that needs to be cleaned or replaced installed BEFORE the water softener.

OR if you don't have one of those.

 

2 ) A tank on well water can fill with Sand ( you would notice some in the house ).

3 ) A tank on well water installed OUTSIDE, using a light color ( like Almond ) and no "jacket" ( to protect from the sunlight ) can grow a thick layer of algae inside the tank. This layer will break off and then clog the slot of bottom distributor in the resin tank.

4 ) IF you have an Autotrol Valve, the Timer Assembly may be sliding up. The Timer Assembly is held in place by a small timer retaining pin ( old pn 5f ). The Timer Assembly is what holds the Camshaft down in place. The Camshaft ( on Autotrol Valves ) must hold open the # 2 and # 3 Valve Discs to allow water to flow through the Valve - Tank - into the house. The "output" connector ( old pn 21E ) could also be broken. It is the part of the Timer Assembly that holds the Camshaft.

 

Problem with filter - New Microline CTA Membrane

* Customer Writes:

I ordered a set of three Microline filters from you at the beginning of the year ( S1224RS CTA Membrane, S7011 Sediment Prefilter, & S7025 GAC Post Filter).

I installed the filters and noticed that only a drip was coming out of the faucet.  I waited overnight and tried and with the same results.  I then took the first filter out and saw good flow.  I took the second filter out and saw good flow.  The third filter was only getting drips, there was no flow.  My conclusion is that the middle filter ( S1224RS CTA Membrane) is not functioning perhaps it is clogged.  

Have you experienced this before.  Do you have any advice on how to get the filter working.

* ANSWERS:

The middle "filter" is the membrane, and it only makes the water very slowly ( drips ), and that is why it must collect in the storage tank over night. Make sure your storage tank shut off is "on", and that it has the proper air pressure.

See:

Low water flow RO filters - Tank Pressure Problem

 

and

 

How the R.O. Membrane Works

 

* At this point, what you are describing sounds close to normal. The CTA membranes are the slowest producers of water, and when new, they can take several days to get up to full production rate.

Please, let me know if you need further assistance.

Culligan Valve Replacement

QUESTION:


I have a Culligan Medalist outdoor water softener Serial # 48151804J23
around 3 1/2 years old plagued with problems. I want to replace the entire
mechanism from the tank up.
My question is: Can I replace the entire mechanism with a simple mechanical
one from the tank up? Are all tanks the same? And which one would you
recommend?



ANSWER:


You must replace the Tank and the Valve, since both are proprietary in
design. Here is my recommendation.
***
You need a new Tank ( here is one that holds 1 cu.ft. of resins ),

SEE: TANK - 9 x 48 BLACK POLYGLASS w/BASE ( or other sizes available )

and you can Re-Use your resins in most cases, SEE: RESIN REPLACEMENT GUIDE 


And the brine tank can be used, but you will need some 3/8" O.D. Tubing and
this 1/4" female x 3/8" compression fitting, SEE:

ELBOW, 1/4 f x 3/8 C FITTING PLASTIC JACO


and I recommend "Lock Leak" to seal the connection,
SEE: THREAD SEALANT LOCK LEAK TUBE 39 ML  


* For the Valve, I recommend the FLECK 5600 ECONOMINDER WATER SOFTENER VALVE,


and be sure to read the HOW TO REPLACE VALVE GUIDE

You will need to select either a 3/4" or 1" plastic male yoke
or the Fleck Stainless Steel By Pass 3/4" or 1" to connect the new Fleck valve to your pipes.


Outdoor installations should also include the optional Valve cover ( must be ordered separately, as most people do not need the cover for their indoor installations ).

Setting Time of Day with the Autotrol 440 Tripper Arm Gear 99F

QUESTION:

Could you please tell me how to set the timer on my unit.

I just ordered AP99F tripper gear from you. Mine has a broken tooth on it. When I replace it how do I set the timing on it? I don't have a manual on it.

The timer is a 440i Osmonics Autotrol.

ANSWER:

*** The small "pointer" on the Tripper Arm Gear points to the current time of day ( as shown on the "face plate" of the time ).

You just pull gear out, and point it at the correct time and release.

It will drop into place with the black drive gear in the right corner that drives the tripper arm gear in the 440 and 440i Timer Assemblies.

see:

AP1000601 Face_Plate_440_Timer

SEE HOW TO VIDEO:

Orange Sand coming into House

Orange Sand coming into House Our resin tank appears to have failed. The system filled our house plumbing with an orange sand like material. We close the bypass valve and flushed the system. What should we do with the water conditioner repair or replace? Is the resin tank warranty good for life the system. Our system is 10 years old. ANSWER Repair. Most warranties expire after 5 years. This problem is very common on chlorinated "city" water, but can occur on well water too. The distributor tube inside the resin tank has failed. You can replace the distributor tube by purchasing a new "Bottom" distributor and gluing it to a piece of PVC pipe. See: http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/MD1236 This part combines with a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe( 1.05" O.D. ), which may be a little larger in diameter than the 13/16" O.D. size you may have now ( if your system is an Autotrol made before 1998, that is about the time they changed to the larger size now used on all new valves ). Many other brands have been using the larger 1.05" diameter tube for a longer time. If need be, you can adapter to the opening in the bottom of your valve ( the tube is held into the Valve by an oring, so it pulls out and pushes back in ) by saving 6" of your old 13/16" pipe and gluing it INSIDE the 3/4 PVC pipe ( it is a nice tight fit when using Schedule 40 PVC ). You will want to check the resin level in the tank. It needs to be at least 1/2 full. See:Resin Replacement Guide

Performa Valves Keep Breaking 440i Timers - Solution is...

* Problem:

We have dual tanks for well water with 268/440i controllers. One is for an iron filter, the other a brine tank. We are running into a situation where timers have been destroyed because the camshaft is too hard to turn when they go to a refill cycle. (It took a while, and a couple of timers, to figure this out.) We relieved the pressure on each tank, checked the flappers, and couldn't see a problem. They moved very easily while the pressure was down. Once we got the system up to pressure, though, you really have to shove the refill valves hard to get them to move. (First it was the iron filter, and now the softener valve has the same problem.) Have you ever heard of this?

* YES!!

I would think that I need to replace the flapper valves and timers, but is there something else we should look at?

* Not Flapper Valves, but the Timer and Camshaft.

We checked for obstructions, and I don't think that's the issue.

* The issue is the Timer and Camshaft.

Autotrol has Revised the Timers ( effective January 2008 ) and they have Revised the Camshafts to help prevent this very common problem ( note: it helps, but you still have gears breaking, just not as quickly ).

See:

http://www.softenerparts.com/440_440i_Timer_Repair_s/63.htm

and here are the new camshafts.

Softener,

http://www.softenerparts.com/Camshaft_268_Performa_Softener_Black_1035625_p/ap1035625.htm

Iron Filter,

http://www.softenerparts.com/Camshaft_268_Performa_Valve_Iron_Filter_1030376_p/ap1030376.htm

and here is the "notice" about them.

Subject: Re: Autotrol Performa 263/440i

Would like to talk to someone about our unit which froze and stripped the cam gear. I ordered a replacement from you last Oct. but the problem seems not to be solved. Seems the cam is very difficult to turn. Wonder if the 460i would be any better?

*** Problem is the Performa Valve is too big for the 400 series timers ( 440i or 460i would have same problems ). The Revised Camshaft helps relief some of the pressure, but the Timer will always be the "weak leak".

There is a Revised Camshaft ( gray ) for the 263 ( backwash only ) version of the Performa valve which may help reduced gear damage ( but not eliminate it ).

see: http://www.softenerparts.com/Camshaft_263_Performa_Backwash_Gray_1035624_p/ap1035624.htm

and an UPGRADE is Available, SEE:

http://www.softenerparts.com/740_Upgrade_Kit_Performa_263_268_Logix_Electronic_p/ap3021045.htm

This is the best way to solve the problem of gears breaking, as the 740 Logix Timer only uses one larger drive gear and motor. For more about our 440i warranty policy, SEE:

440ihv-timer-assembly-warranty-policy.html

Fleck 5600 parts rebuild with or without replacing the Timer Motor

Your parts rebuild kit should also contain one, 1/30th timer motor. When
the piston gets stuck in the seals or is very hard to drive thru
regeneration, the timer motor's internal gears strip out. So if someone
was
to rebuild their fleck 5600, it would still get stuck in cycle.

* Thank you for your comment.
I believe it is only true about 5% of the time. That is my experience from
years of "rebuilding" valves personally ( since 1989 ), and also selling
hundreds of rebuild kits online ( since 1999 ).
We mention you might need a new timer motor in our How to Rebuild guide,
but
I feel it would be unfair to tell Every One they needed to replace the
motor
at the same time they replace the Pistons & Seals.

Microline Filters S7125 and S7128 are Different

Customer Writes: I have an aquapro TFC-4 RO system installed in my home. I need replacement filters ( S7125 and S7128 ) and am having a hard time locating them. I see filters labeled as for TFC-4 on your website, but I'm not sure if they are what I'm looking for. Can you please confirm if they are compatible?

*As shown in the photo below, the two styles are very different.

The third party unit ( there are about a dozen proprietary "Brands" which uses a Microline S7125 GAC Post, and S7128 carbon sediment prefilter which you will NOT Find on our website. These are not directly interchangeable, but there is a way to "adapt" your system for use of "standard", long, thinner versions that are more readily available, and generally less expensive to purchase.

The dimensions of S7125 and S7128 filter are 2 and 3/8 inches in diameter and 9.5 inches long (if you count the spout at the top.)

* We stock and sell the common Microline 11 1/2" length replacement filter cartridges. To adapt from having to use the shorter proprietary version, and start using the longer "standard" version, you must replace the sump housings ( change all 3 if changing the Membrane too ) with longer version of the housing ( our PN S7029-09 ). see Microline New Sump Housing S7029-09

Here is the Short Fatter Filter ( S7125 ) compared to the Longer Microline S7025 we sell:

Water Flowing to Salt Tank after replacing Brine Valve Piston Assembly Fleck part 60032

Hi , I just received a new repair kit # 56PSKIT and have installed it, however it now puts too much water into the brine tank, so much so the float in the brine tank rises and shuts it off. What have I done wrong? I thought I followed the instructions to a T. Please advise

** Perhaps when you replaced the Brine Valve Piston Assembly ( 60032 ) you accidentally pulled out the oring ( 13302 ) that sits in the bottom of the hole which the valve is installed in.

Or at least the oring came out 1/2 way, and you have jammed the Brine Valve onto the oring and it is not sitting flat.

** Remove the Brine valve and look in the hole for this oring. If you do not see it, look on the floor around the unit. If you have lost it, you can use the one that is on your old Brine Valve, as there is another 13302 oring on the Brine Valve ( it is on the white plastic portion of the assembly ). And of course we sell new ones at Softenerparts.com.

Handling Charges in the U.K.

Many thanks for the excellent service. I believe my package is waiting for me to collect it from the Post Office. The reason for this note is that you may wish to draw to the attention of folk buying from the UK, the fact that our Post Office charges approx $16 to cover their handling of the package through our customs!!!

Quite a shock to me having paid only $55 for the parts. I'm still happy with the service and your prices. Keep up the great work.

Update: The post office charges for collecting any duty and taxes due in the UK. I was only charged tax – around $9 which I'm happy to pay but the post office charges $16 for collecting the tax for the inland revenue (customs). Goods under $36 (£18) don't attract the charges.

How to Set Meter without the People or Hardness Labels on Fleck Econominder Valves

Andrew,


Thank you for the very prompt shipping of my Fleck 5600 Econominder Controller. I've purchased two items from you and both times the shipping has been excellent.


I have a question though. As you can see in the attached photo the old controller had a "People Dial" and a "Water Hardness Dial". I used that to set my controller (e.g. I have 3 people here and the hardness is about 15). The new controller does not have either.


What is the appropriate way to set this controller given my prior settings at 3 people and a hardness of about 15?


Thank you,

Mike S.      Mesa, AZ



*** Great Question:
We do not use the People and Hardness Labels on our replacement Econominder Valves and Power Heads, because they are tank specific. For example, the one in the photo is made for a Resin Capacity of 24,000 ( 24K CAP ), and would be incorrect to use on any other size resin tank. To avoid getting the wrong label ( and they do not come in "all sizes", only 2 or 3 ), we do not use any labels. In your case, you could set the "white" dot to the number 14, to match how your old valve was set. If you have a common One Cu.Ft. system ( usually a 9 x 48 resin tank ), then this is about where you want to be set, as your "working" capacity is about 1,600 gallons.

Here is how to figure meter settings,

 The setting ( each digit equals 100 gallons ) on the 5600 meter determines how much water is used before a regeneration is run ( at 2 a.m. ).
It does not regenerate every night, but only as water usage dictates the need.

To compute the proper setting of the program meter wheel ( dial on the front of control ), you must know your hardness ( & iron level, if any ).
You also must know the capacity of your resin tank.
The average size resin tank is 9" x 48" and holds one cubic foot of resin. Resin has a maximum capacity of 32,000 grains removal ( when regenerated with about 18 lbs. of salt ).
Softeners should be sized and set to work at 75% capacity ( which requires half as much salt ).
With the capacity and the hardness level known ( add 3 grains hardness for each ppm of iron present in the water ), you are ready to set your program wheel.


Computing Gallon Setting

Take the grains capacity of your resin tank times 75% ( 0.75 ) divided by hardness ( in grains ),
then subtract 75 gallons per person using the water as a reserve.



Example: 32,000 grains x .75 = 24,000 divide by 20 grains hardness = 1,200 gallons - 150 ( 2 people ) = 1,050 setting.


You set the gallons by lifting the clear portion of the program wheel, and align the white dot with the number of gallons you wish the unit to use prior to initiating a regenerate ( the night following the meter reaching Zero ).


Also the salt setting should be 9 lbs. per cu. ft. of resins ( 32,000 grains ).
You can find this adjustment on the "Brine Cam" gear inside the back of your control head. It is a small halve moon shaped piece that it held on to the Brine Cam with one screw. It has a small pointer which indicates the pounds of salt to be used per regeneration.


If you do not know your resin tank capacity, send us the tank's height and diameter, and we will let you know how much resin is normally used in your size tank. We will also do the rest of the math for you, if provide the hardness & iron levels ( note: most "city" water does not contain iron ). Also, you might need to know that 17.1 ppm of hardness = 1 grain of hardness.



How To Move Program Wheel To Set Gallons:


1 ) The "locking" teeth are under the part that says ( x100 ), so this is the critical area that must lift.
2 ) It is VERY HELPFUL ( maybe NECESSARY ) if you hold the Black Gear "down" while pulling up on the Clear portion.
3 ) Turn the Clear Portion counter clockwise, and Black Gear Clockwise
4 ) Line up "white" dot with the gallon setting you've computed.

SEE HOW TO VIDEO:

How To Move Program Wheel To Set Gallons

Common Tank Sizes and Amount of Resins Inside

8" x 35" 0.64 cu. ft. ( 20,480 grains )

8" x 44" 0.75 cu. ft. ( 24,000 grains )

9" x 35" 0.75 cu. ft. ( 24,000 grains )

9" x 40" 1.00 cu.ft. ( 32,000 grains )

9" x 48" 1.00 cu. ft. ( 32,000 grains )

10" x 35" 1.00 cu. ft.( 32,000 grains )

10" x 40" 1.00 cu .ft. ( 32,000 grains )

10" x 44" 1.25 cu. ft. ( 40,000 grains )

10" x 54" 1.50 cu. ft. ( 48,0000 grains )

12" x 52" 2.00 cu. ft. ( 64,0000 grains )

Remember to divide the total grains by 0.75 ( 75% ), as that is the true "working" capacity when using 9 lbs. of salt per cu.ft. per regeneration. To achieve maximum capacity requires 16 lbs. of salt per cu.ft. And since almost double the amount of salt is required to get that extra 25% of capacity, it is not recommended ( nor common practice ). One last note: 6 lbs. per cu.ft. is considered the minimum salt dosage, and should never be that low if you have iron in your water. 6 lbs. yields between 50 - 65% of total capacity ( depends on your water's total dissolved solids ), and is not recommended in most cases.

ECO-friendly alternative to SALT softeners?

 

Is there are ECO-friendly alternative to SALT softeners?

 

***

"ECO-friendly"?

Salt is "natural", and not unfriendly.

Some plants like salty water, but most do not.

Salt is necessary for life, but too much ( of anything ) is harmful.

 

To be more specific:

You can use Potassium Chloride ( a type of salt ) instead of Sodium Chloride ( common "salt" ) to regenerate the resins in the tank. This regeneration is required to "charge" the beads with a strong negative ion charge. With this negative charge, the resins are able to attract and remove positive ion molecules ( calcium, magnesium, iron, etc ) from the water.

See:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/4100/

 

The only other methods for removing these from your water are Distilling, or Reverse Osmosis. Both of these two processes require equipment that is very expensive and operate by producing "pure" water slowly, requiring large storage tanks, and re-pressurization pumps to feed your home with the water produced. Also, this water is so "pure", it is slightly corrosive, and commonly some "hardness" minerals need to be reintroduced to prevent corrosion of the metal plumbing in the home.

 

There are also advertised some "salt free" systems on the market. They do not remove the hardness minerals, nor iron from the water. The "catalytic" process does not give all the benefits of "ion exchange" softeners, and most people are not happy with the results provided by these system ( which have been around in one form or another for decades ). I have only talked to the dissatisfied consumers who had to get their money back, and have a "real" water softener installed.

 

Believe me, if I knew of a "better way" to soften water that did not use any type of Salt ( NaCl or KCl ), I'd be selling it and promoting it. I always check out "the latest" and "newest way" to treat water, and so far nothing has been developed to replace the ion exchange method of softening water.

 

And the "salt discharged" from the softeners is only a problem is you drain it out into your yard, where it can cause some plants to die. If this is a concern, then you can use the more expensive ( and 90% as efficient ) "salt substitute" Potassium Chloride ( KCl ), instead of Sodium Chloride. The Potassium acts as a "fertilizer", and is less harmful to plant life.

 

It should also be noted here, that most water naturally contains some level of salts.

To understand Salt better, SEE:

http://www.saltinstitute.org/15.html

 

***

 

How do you determine if you actually need a softener?

* If the water is hard, and most is, then you will benefit from having a water softener on your home. Most people will learn to "deal with" hardness up about 20 grains. Problems caused by hard water actually start at about 3 grains. Water harder than 10 grains has many noticeable "by products". Any time the water is used, a residue is left. This is Calcium and Magnesium that will form a solid that requires special cleaners ( mild acids ) to remove. For more information to help determine if you actually "need" a water softener, please see this link that explains how a softener works, the benefits, and the average hardness in various locations in the U.S.A.

* Iron in the water is another reason you could benefit from a water softener. The RESINS in the tank will remove about 3 ppm per cu.ft. of media used ( average size residential softener is 9" x 48" and uses One Cu. Ft. of Resins ). The use of some type of "iron" cleaning in with the salt helps keep the Resins clean. The size of the softener system ( size of tank, and amount of Resins inside ) is an important aspect to be considered before purchasing a water softener on high iron water. Feel free to ask us for advice.

See How A Water Softener Works:

http://www.softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/4100/

 

 

How do you put a softener out of service without damaging it?

* Simply "by pass" the water flow to the softener or shut water off.   
And unplug electric. If it the tank is in an area that could Freeze, move Tank to area that Can't Freeze.

Freezing can damage the Resins, Tank, and / or Valve.
* When you are ready to use the softener again, besides turning the water back on, restoring electric to control, and setting time of day,  you will want to manually start a regeneration of the system to "freshen" up the water in the Tank, before using the water in the home.

 

No Salt Systems for Water Softening

I see ads for "No Salt" needed water conditioners. 
How do they work without using salt?

1. Many dealers will advertise a no salt water conditioner. Any brand of water conditioner can be operated without using salt. This is done by using a salt substitute, potassium chloride. It generally cost twice as much as regular salt ( sodium chloride ), and can be difficult to find in some areas. Also, it is recommend to increase the salt setting on your control valve by about 10 % , when using a salt substitute. This is because it is not as efficient in provided the needed negative ions to the resin beads as regular salt.

2. Some companies offer catalytic filters and/or magnetic devices to soften your water that do not use salt, or anything else to regenerate their product. Buyer beware! If a technology had been developed that could replace a resin based water conditioner, then everyone would be selling it. I know I would. Those salt bags are heavy :)

For more detials, I'd recommend this webpage written by a retired chemist. http://www.chem1.com/CQ/

Salt is Not Going Down

My Valve appears to be operating but the Salt is Not Going Down.
What could cause this problem?

The salt not going down could be due to many different reasons.

1 ) Valve is not regenerating due to a problem with Timer Motor or a bad gear in the timer assembly ( common in Autotrol Timer Assemblies ).
2 ) Salt may be Bridged ( become solid ) above water that is at the bottom of the salt tank.
3 ) If you have been using Pellet salt for many years you could have a lot of undissolvable residue at the bottom. This residue will not dissolve and also can block water flow in and out of the salt tank.
4 ) The Valve could be failing to draw the brine solution out and if you have a float shut off in the brine tank, it would be prevent the salt tank from overflowing ( which it would do if the float shut off was not there ).
5 ) The brine refill control could be clogged, prevent water to refill the salt tank.

How to use Autotrol By Pass - Old Style

Question:

How do you turn the bypass valve on / off ?

What does 61F do?

 

******************

 

The old style Autotrol By Pass Valves use a "push in" method of redirecting the flow.

If you push the knob ( 46F )  IN on the RIGHT ( standing in front of the system ), this will place the valve in "by pass" and cause the knob ( another 46F ) on the left to come out about an inch.

To "restore" flow through the Control Valve and resin tank, you would Push the knob on the Left back IN.

PUSHING the knob can require extreme force. A hard "push" with your fist, or a "tap" with a hammer, may be required.

 

Sometimes engaging the By Pass fails to cut off the valve flow to the Control Valve 100%, because the internal oring in the center of the by pass shaft is not sealing 100%. This common failure is the main reason Autotrol now uses a different design ( double shut off - redirecting valves ) for the "new" style By Pass for their Control Valves.

 

The part labeled 61F does not "do anything". And I've never seen this used for anything.

Rainsoft Amazon Gold Series Seals ( Gaskets ) and Spacers are Fleck Parts

The valve body of the Rainsoft Amazon Gold Series is basically the Fleck 5000 or  newer Pro Flow version of the Model 5000 valve.

Rainsoft has added their own proprietary electronic timer assembly, but the Valve Body Parts, and By Pass Valve are common to other Fleck Valves.

 

The Seals and Spacers ( KIT part number 60120 has a special "end spacer" not found in kit 60125 ).
The Seals are pn 13242 ( quantity 5 ) and the Spacers are pn 14241 ( quantity 4 ) , and the end spacer is pn 18264 ( and this part can normally be re-used, that is why the 60125 Kit will also work as a replacement ).

Here is a link to the 60120 Seals and Spacers Kit:
Seals Kit # 60120

 

Tank Diameter - How to Measure and Why It Matters

Do you just measure the outer resin tank diameter?

* Yes, you measure the fiberglass tank that contains the resins ( or other
media ).
Do not be "fooled" by plastic decorative "jackets" sometimes placed over the
fiberglass ( or polyglass ) tank.
The diameter is the measurement ACROSS the WIDTH of the tank, or the
circumference ( around ) the tank divided by pi ( 3.14 ).
And you should "round down" to the whole number ( i.e. 8.34 would be 8
inches ).

Why do you need this measurement?

* The proper Backwash Flow Rate to be used is determined by the diameter of
the tank.
The larger the diameter, the higher the flow rate required to properly
expand and clean the resin bed.
If your current valve body is an "Autotrol" type, it has a "Backwash" Plug
( PN 25F ) that has a small
number ( and the words "Backwash" ) on it. This number normally corresponds
to
the diameter of the resin tank.
See:
Autotrol Backwash Plug Sizes

* Fleck valves use DLFC ( drain line flow control ) buttons. The gpm is
sometimes marked near the drain fitting outlet.
See:
Common 2 gpm DLFC Button PN 12087

* Also, the injector size used in the Valve is determined by the diameter
of the resin
tank.
Autotrol valve examples,
See:
Common Autotrol Injector Sizes / Colors PN AP28F

And for Fleck Valves,
See:
Common Fleck Injector Sizes / Colors
All these are DIRECTLY based in the Tank Diameter, because the wider the tank, the higher the flow rates need to be for proper washing and rinsing of the media in the tank.

Clearing Memory in Sears, GE, and NorthStar Circuit Board

When you have an unusually high water usage day, your softener's electronic
control will "remember" this for a long time.
In the case of the controllers commonly used in Sears, GE, and NorthStar
this could be 3 or 4 months before things would return to normal.
The problem caused by this "memory" is that the unit will be regenerating
more often than normal, because it is remembering the high usage, and
averages this into it's calculations of capacity remaining.
It "errs" on the side of caution, and ends up regenerating sooner than it
"really" needs to.

To reset this memory:
1 ) Hold "Select" button for 3 seconds, until 000 appears, then release.
2 ) Hold UP Arrow to "see" days the system has been plugged into the
electric, and release.
3 ) Hold DOWN Arrow to "see" number of times the system has regenerated
since it was first installed, and release.
NOW
4 ) Hold "Select" button for another 3 seconds to see the SR, or Model
code.
Write this number down.
5 ) Having released the "Select" button, and recording your actual model
code, then you can use the UP or DOWN Arrow to change your Model Code.
6 ) Press "Select" one time and you will see the time of day flashing 12:00
a.m.
7 ) Use the Arrow keys to move the time a few minutes, thus causing it to
"set" this new time.
FINALLY
8 ) Go back and do 1 - 7 again, only this time, at step 5, reset the
original model code, and at step 7, put in the correct time of day.
* NOTE: The number of regenerations since unit installed will be reset to
Zero. If you want to have this information for future referrence, be sure
to
write this down.

How Long Until Water Feels Soft Again After Repair

It can take several regenerations, and the "using up" of the Hot Water to get the "feel" back.

It is recommended that you manually have the system run extra regenerations and to drain the hot water ( either at the hot water tank, or at least running the water in the bath tub until it turns cold ).

 

So, unless you regenerate the system twice in a row, and completely drain the hot water tank, it may take several days or even weeks to get back to Zero hardness in the Hot Water.

The Cold water should be soft right away.

 

And if you don't feel like it is softening at all, then TEST the water hardness ( test strips available from Softenerparts.com, and locally - Sears, Home Depot, Lowes ).

A test before and after the softener will help determine if the system is working.

 

 

Does Softenerparts.com ship to Canada

Yes.
We ship to Canada all the time.

Small parts under 16 ounces can be shipped by Air Mail in large bubbled envelope ( and pass through Canadian Customs with little or no delay ).

Parts usually arrive in about one week.

Items weighing up to 4 lbs. and under $ 400.00 can also be shipped using standard Air Mail ( cost based on weight items and calculated in your CART once you input your ADDRESS ), BUT large items that require a box, can take 2 - 6 weeks to arrive ( as some are "selected" by Canadian Customs, and that can slow delivery time ), and is therefore not recommended for items over 1 lb. if you can't wait that long.



Items up to 10 lbs. can be shipped by Express Mail ( Costs start around $ 32.00 and are based on weight, with calculation occurring in your CART once you've entered your Ship to: ADDRESS ) which is normally 5 - 7 business days delivery and includes Tracking Number.

We can ship items up to 4 lbs. by regular Air Mail for less, but we have found any item requiring a box to ship can get held up in "Customs" for 2 - 6 weeks, and there is no tracking, therefore we do not recommend using standard First Class Air Mail for any items over 16 ounces.



Please try adding your items to the Shopping Cart, enter your address for a "shipping quote".



Orders can and should be placed online. Shipping will be quoted based in the weight of the items.


Express Mail shipping upgrade is available during check out. The shopping cart will quote any order weighing less then 10 lbs. and offer a minimum quote for heavier orders.
We will contact you if any additional shipping charges are required for heavier items ( over 10 lbs. ).

Also see, Shipping Questions: When, How Long, From Where, What Methods.

ANY TAX or DUTY will be paid by YOU when order is delivered, we do NOT collect this in advance.



3.2.1 Customs Duties and Taxes


Canadian Customs Requirements



Customs Duties, Taxes and Exemptions


3.2.1




Any item mailed into Canada is potentially subject to duty and/or taxes with few exceptions.
Visit the CBSA web site at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/security-securite/cbcr-dmte/menu-eng.html for more information on mail imports. The CBSA collects provincial sales taxes (PST) on most taxable imports valued at over $20CDN entering Quebec, Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan and British Columbia. The CBSA also collects Harmonized Sales Taxes (HST) on most taxable imports entering Newfoundland and Labrador, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.

We do not use UPS for shipments to Canada, as the "broker" fees can be more than the cost of the item.
Also, UPS requires higher costs and paper work to ship International...
So we just don't use them.
Only the Postal Service is used to ship to Canada.

Bruner Valve - Old and New Styles

Older Bruner softeners used an Autrol model 160 valve in late 1970s and early 80s.

This model is like the 155 valve in size, but does not use an "air check" on the valve. In this regard, it is like the 168 model.

The thing that made this valve "unique" is the side mount By Pass connection.

 

The timer assembly is the 440 version, and this was and is ( newer 440i )  used on most Autotrol valves to this day.

The time of day is set by the small pointer. The large arm will "trip" at 2:30 a.m to push the "skipper" wheel that has days of regeneration.

For each pin pushed IN the unit will regenerate that night at 2:30 - 4:00 a.m.

 

All of the parts for the 440 timer, and most of the parts for the Valve are still available.

Most of the trouble shooting and service hints for the Autotrol 155 would apply to this valve.

See:

http://www.softenerparts.com/Autotrol_155_1550_TC_Rebuilding_Guide_s/48.htm

 

 

In the 1980s and early 90s Bruner used their own proprietary design valve.

Newer, "true Bruner" valve, is no longer made and parts are no longer available.

 

 

 

It is possible to replace the entire valve, and re-use the tanks.

See:

How to Replace Old Valve Guide

 

Too much Sodium in the Water?

Is the sodium added to softened water a problem for people to drink?

Only if a person is on an extremely restrictive diet, he should drink neither hard nor softened water. Under these conditions, he should use reverse osmosis, or distilled water for drinking and cooking. For a normal person, the small amount of  sodium in water is not a problem or concern. Especially when compared to other foods.

Even hard water may contain appreciable amounts of sodium. To determine the amount a complete analysis of the water is necessary.

It is important to note that about 2/3 of the daily water intake of the individual is through food and only about 1/3 water itself.

SODIUM CONTENT OF COMMON FOODS IN A TYPICAL DAILY DIET
The Food	Amount	Milligrams of Sodium
Milk	2 cups	226
Eggs	1 of medium size	56
Steak	6 ounces	110
Bread	2 slices	278
Cereal	1/2 cup	21
Potatoes	1 small	30
Green salad with 1 oz French Dressing	1 serving	30
Vegetables (other)	3 servings	120
Fruit	2 servings	50
Fruit (citrus)	1 serving	6
Water after typical water softener	8 ounces	25 average

Autotrol 440 Timer Rebuilding

An obvious problem that can occur is for the timer motor to fail.

The motors turn at 1 rpm, so it is quite easy to tell if it is turning.

A more common problem is for one or more of the drive gears to strip.

Removing the Tripper Arm screw, the Skipper Wheel screw and the three cover plate screws will gain you complete access to all components for careful examination.

It is easier to work on your timer housing if you remove it from the valve body.

Pull out the timer retaining pin ( 5F ), slide power cord out of it's retaining slot, unscrew Cam Shaft Bearing at rear of Cam Shaft, and then pull housing straight up.

Common Gears that Fail 1. Tripper Arm Gear # 99F ( 1031756 ) * Most common gear to break at the 2 - 3 am. position. 2. # 7 Black Gear # 420A43 ( 1031554 ) * Gear that drives the Tripper Arm Gear, and often strips out at the same times as the Tripper Arm Gear breaks. 3. Red Knob Gear # 106H ( 1001582 ) * now "Black" closely examine the "over hang" teeth of the OUT PUT GEAR, as they sometimes snap off.4. #8 Black Gear # 420A44 ( 1030844 ) * Drives the Output Gear, and if stripped, you can easily see this.

Also the "Out Put Connector" # 21E ( 1031496 ) which attaches to and drives the Cam Shaft can crack or break. Check this part at the rear of the timer assembly.

On rare occasions the Camshaft # 21F-3 ( 1031950 ) will break at one end.

Also, rare is a cracked Skipper Wheel # 14F-6 ( 1031740 ).

Close examination of both sides of the Skipper Wheel is required to detect this failure. And last, but not least, you can have a gear post break in the housing body it's self. But only the backplates for the 440i version is available and not the "box" used with the older 440 version. It is simpler and prudent to replace the Complete Timer Assembly ( with the new 440iHV ) at this point.

A complete replacement is also prudent if the unit is over 20 years old.

Replacement Options

And now available for Models 255, 263 and 268 is the Logix 740 upgrade timer kit ( does not work with older 155, 163, or 168 valves.. sorry ).

see for 255 valves: http://www.softenerparts.com/740_Logix_255_Upgrade_Electronic_replacing_440i_p/ap3021998.htm

and for Performa 263 or 268,

http://www.softenerparts.com/740_Upgrade_Kit_Performa_263_268_Logix_Electronic_p/ap3021045.htm

Salty Water Taste in the Morning

Salty water in the morning is a common problem.

It occurs most commonly because the internal seals of the Valve leak highly salty water into the cold water lines during the regeneration cycle.

Typically ( if your Time of Day is set correctly to the current time of day ) this regeneration occurs between 2 a.m. to 4 a.m. once or twice a week.

If water is used in the home ( toilet flush, ice maker drawing water, etc. ) in the middle of the regeneration,

then the valve may allow the salt water being rinsed through the tank to leak into the cold water line.

And this super salty water is still there in the water line when you get up to make coffee, or brush your teeth in the morning.

This salty water can normally be "cleared" from the lines by running the water for 1 minute.

If it takes 5 or more minutes of running the water to clear up,

then you have a more serious problem ( clogged injector, or drain line, or bad connection at the distributor tube oring ).

This salty water problem is most common with Autotrol Valves ( Autotrol 155, 168, 255, or 268 models ), as they all use "flapper" valve discs that are held closed by water pressure.

So, when you flush a toilet in the house, the pressure drops enough to open one valve that should be closed during the "Brine Rinse" cycle,

and results in allowing some salty water to leak into the house lines.

Such leakage can occur in any valve that has "worn" internal seals.

Normally, if you just keep your time of day set correctly,

and you don't use water in the middle of the night, you won't wake up to salty water in the morning.

 

Trouble Shooting Fleck 9000 Valve

 Determining if the Fleck 9000 Valve is functioning involves several steps.
 Checking the Meter Operation is the first step.
 See:
 Meter Cover ( 14038 ) and how to Check Directions plus Video
 
 
If the meter is counting your water usage, it should be regenerating and 
alternating tanks on a regular basis.
 If the meter is counting down to zero, but the valve is not regenerating, it 
could be one of several things.
 1 ) Micro-switch that "starts" the timer motor, or the timer motor does not 
start at all. Replacing the micro-switch or the motor would solve this.
 You can "see" the timer motor running in the back of the motor, when it has 
been "started" by the tripping of the micro-switch.
 This is what the program wheel on the front normally does ( when it counts 
down to zero ), or when you manually advance the control knob on the front.
 2 ) The Drive Motor may be bad, and not turning the main ( middle gear ) to 
move the Piston assemblies
 3 ) The one or more of the drive gears may be broken.
 4 ) The Valve could be "stuck" because the 2 main pistons, and seals need to 
be replaced. A stuck valve can also damage the middle drive gear.
 See:
 9000 or 9100 Rebuild Kit Pistons and Seals
 
Diagrams of the Fleck 9000 Valve and a list of common replacement parts can 
be found here,
 See:
 9000,9100 Parts and Diagrams
 

Distributor Failure in Bottom of Resin Tank

A customer has had 2 distributor failures within a relatively short time.
This time he thinks he may have lost the majority of his resin.
Can you please shed some light on possible causes for distributors to fail.
I'd like to make sure his third one lasts longer.

* Here is what I know will effect distributor life.
1 ) Too much water pressure ( over 80 psi ).
2 ) Not backwashing ( regenerating ) often enough. System should regenerate
at least once every 7 days.
I've run into "metered" or "demand" systems with just one or two people and
it takes them 2 - 3 weeks to "require" a regeneration.
This is too long for the resins to be "packed" down and not "fluffed up".
3 ) Highly Chlorinated water can break the resins down into small fragments.
These fragments get stuck in the fine slots of the bottom distributor. This
results in there being less "holes" for the water to flow through, thus
causing the pressure through the remaining holes or slots to become very
high. Eventually the pressure of the water becomes too high and the plastic
gives way. Then the larger ( normal size ) resins can get into the pipes.
4 ) Too high of flow rates can be a problem. Residential size softeners (
tank diameters between 8 - 10 inches ) are made for flow rates of less than
8 gpm. And a normal home will peak around 5 - 6 gpm while filling the
laundry tub, or the bath tub. If the demand it greater than this, the system
needs to have a larger tank diameter, and a gravel under bedding should be
used.

RESET Autotrol 460 Timer Regenerating EVERY NIGHT

TOTAL 460 TIMER PROGRAM RESET
* 1. Record your Hardness and Capacity settings
* 2. Disconnect power
* 3. Jumper both pins 'A' and 'B'
* 4. Reconnect power for at least 10 seconds
* 5. Disconnect Power
* 6. Remove Jumpers and return them to 'time' and 'spare'
* 7. Reconnect power and restore your hardness and capacity settings
* Result is # days since regeneration and gallons used are '0'
* Average daily usage is hex 64 or decimal 100 gallons
The REASON you would RESET your timer is IF the unit is Regenerating EVERY NIGHT. This happens when the "program" is "averaging" your daily use based on the last 30 days, and you had an unusually HIGH USAGE day during that period. A Reset should solve this problem. If not, it may be time to replace the Timer Assembly.

What Brine ( Salt ) Setting Amount to Use?

Question: Does the adjustment for the salt dosage need to be adjusted based
on the hardness of the water?
I haven't changed it from where it was set but didn't know if I needed too.
****
The amount of salt needed is mostly based on the amount of resins being
recharged.
3/4 cu.ft. resin = 6 - 9 lbs.
1 cu.ft. resin = 8 - 10 lbs.
1.5 cu.ft resin = 12 - 15 lbs.

Typically,
9 lbs for 8 - 9 inch tanks,
and 12 lbs. of 10" tanks is average.
If there is a lot of iron ( over 2 ppm )
or if the water is really hard ( over 25 grains ),
then 2 - 4 lbs. extra should be used.

So, typically a residential system will use 6 - 12 lbs of salt per regeneration at least once a week. Very hard water, or water high in iron, may require regenerating every 2 or 3 days. The result is you will be using at least 30 - 40 lbs. of salt, and more common you will be using 60 - 100 lbs. of salt per month. Simply multiply the pounds of salt per regeneration times the number of regenerations in a month to calculate your monthly average usage.

P.S. If you run out of Salt, don't expect to have soft water after a few days. And it may take more than one regeneration to get the water feeling soft again once you've added salt.
I recommend keeping the salt level above the water level in your Brine Tank.
When you start seeing the water level ( normally between 6 - 12 inches ) then it's time to think about adding more salt ( 40 - 120 lbs. ).