Logix Timer 700 series - Start Regeneration Video

The GE Osmonic Autotrol Valves 255 and 268 have been available with the Logix electronic controls for several years now ( 740 and 760, now 742 and 762 ). This 1 minute video shows how to start a manual regeneration for tonight or immediate start.

GE SmartWater Switch Activation Not in Sync with Cam Gear

*PROBLEM:

The softener stops just short of where it needs to for the fill and brine cycles. On the valve body the indicator is to the left of the letter slightly past mark, but it still needs a little bit more to make the fill and brine work. What's up with this? Is this a problem with the rotor and stem having "stretched" from being so hard to turn?

* No

*ANSWER:

You can make it work by taking the micro-switch and moving the bend of the "arm" out farther, so it lets the Cam Gear turn 1/32" further and thus reaches the correct position to engage the proper cycle in the regeneration process.

** This solution is the only one I can think of, as the switch is what "tells" the circuit board that the Cam Gear has reached the point it's "suppose" to stop at.

You could replace the switch, but there is no guaranty the new switch would not behave the same.

I've looked at a newer model of the SmartWater softener, and they have the bend further down the arm, exactly where it needed to be, to correct the cycle position problem.

Low Water Flow from Reverse Osmosis System

The number one reason for low water flow from a reverse osmosis system is low air pressure in the holding tank.

( Note: Reason number two is clogged pre-filter, so check that too ).

The Problem: Low Volume and Poor Pressure
Little to No air pressure will result in very little water being pushed out of the holding tank. You will have a full and heavy holding tank, but without the air pressure, you'll never get much water out of the tank. Too much air pressure ( say over 10 psi on a small tank ) will result in good water flow but will severely limit the amount of water that can be stored in the holding tank. So, it is recommended to put 8 psi of air in your under the sink reverse osmosis holding tank. If you get water coming out of the air valve, then it is time to purchase a new holding tank.

To Check:
With all possible water drained from the holding tank, you want to get an air pressure reading of 8 PSI of air pressure. There is a "tire" valve on your holding tank somewhere ( usually the bottom ). You really should use a special low pressure air gauge. One that shows the air pressure in one pound increments starting with one pound. The average tire gauge starts at 5 or 10 lbs. psi.

 

Tank Replacement Questions and Answers:

Do you just hook up the tank and start using it?  If not, will it come with instructions?

 

* Simply turn off the RO incoming water, open your RO faucet to relieve any pressure. Disconnect tubing at the Tank shut off.

 

* You will unscrew the shut off elbow that is on your old tank and you can re-use it on your new tank.

Just be sure to use about 3 layers of Teflon Tape on the threads of the new tank,

AND do not over tighten the elbow fitting, or you will crack it.

We sell new shut off elbows, and they should be available locally where ever plumbing supplies are sold.

The thread size on the tank is called 1/4" mpt. And the tubing size connection will be either 1/4" or 3/8" O.D. ( depends on what size your system uses, both are common ).

 

* Also note, the tank comes pre-charged. You should not need to add any air to it.

 

More on Replacement TANK, see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/2432TANKWH/

 

New Timer Motor 18743 kicks the unit into 'REGEN', but that's as far as it will go.

If you install a new Fleck 5600 motor timer and it does keep the time o.k. and even kicks the unit into 'REGEN',

but that's as far as it will go,

THEN:

 

* It is possible you have dropped the curved washer that sits behind the motor mounting plate on older models.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3413299/Curved_Washer__Older_Fleck_5600__3413299.html

 

* It's job is to apply a small amount of tension to the 2 drive gears behind the motor mounting plate. The newer plates do not require the washer,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3413175/Motor_Mounting_Plate_Fleck_5600_PN_13175__3413175.html

 

* Check your plate to see if it is FLAT or "beveled". If FLAT look for the washer, or order one ( or a new metal plate ).

 

* If you have the newer mounting plate already, then the problem could be you do not have it securely ( or completely ) screwed down into the plastic housing ( or the plastic at one of the 2 screws is cracked ).

Hydrogen Sulfide levels effected by amount of water used and the ground water table

CUSTOMER WRITES:

I have increased the chlorine and it seems to be doing the trick.  Thanks for all your help.  One last question, what did you mean by; Are you using extra water for irrigation lately?  The irrigation water is drawn prior to the treatment system.  How could that be a contributing factor?  

 

** The more water used from the Well, the higher the concentration of hydrogen sulfide you will be "pulling up" from the ground.

Some people have "no" odor, except when they use 50 - 100 gallons or more. And any Well that has hydrogen sulfide already, will have a higher concentration coming from the Well as the water demand increases ( i.e. watering the lawn, filling the swimming pool ) and as the actual water table in the ground drops ( during "dry spells" ).

Once the summer rains begin, and the water table rises back to normal levels, and less water is used, then the level of hydrogen sulfide in the water drops back to "normal" levels.

 

 

Autotrol Valve flow rate problem - Either Resin in Tank, or Valve Discs not opening enough

* Custom Writes:

 

I have a Autotrol 155 which seems to have a low flow rate while in the service mode. This was noticed over a few days due to an electric shower which was unable to operate correctly (either the water was cold or boiling hot) as the flow rate dropped below the shower units operational pressure. One last thing that has been noticed; when there is no other water usage in the house, you can turn a tap/faucet on, the water comes out at full pressure but quickly drops off to a very low flow. If the unit is bypassed then the normal pressure is restored. The unit has been installed for approximately 17 years.

Is there any advice you can shed some light on with?

*** If the water source is chlorinated, it could be the Resin in the tank are breaking down into fine fragments and clogging the bottom distributor.

They can easily be replaced, and this would restore normal flow rates.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.resinreplacement

 

OR if the Timer Assembly is not DOWN and LOCKED in by the Timer Retaining Pin ( 5F ) or the Out Put Connector on the Back of the Timer Assembly is cracked ( 21E ), then the camshaft may not be holding open the # 2 and # 3 Valve Discs to allow proper flow through the Valve.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP21E/Camshaft_Out_Put_Connector_Autotrol_21E_or_1031496.html

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.autotrol_service_hints.autotrol_155_rebuidling

 

 

Erie 2001 Valve Leaking to Drain or Brine Tank - Cam Sync problem

** Customer shares how to Sync the Cam on an Erie 2001 Rotary Valve

I began by removing the cover of the front of the control module. A thorough examination revealed the two micro switches I mentioned in earlier correspondence.

See picture 001 notice the red rectangle in the lower left. The micro switches are activated by cylinder shaped device by it’s rotation. See picture 002 Notice the little rusty screw(green arrow). That screw allows you to turn the cylinder with out turning the worm gear or the valve body. You see in picture 003 exactly how this occurs. If you depress the micro switch the motor will turn.

I simply used the plug to stop and start the motor until the valve body was in the closed position and then loosened the screw and rotated the cylinder until the cylinder until the recess was at the button on the micro switch. This has seemed to put everything where it needs to be for proper operation.

Autotrol Valve Leaking to Drain after Replacing Valve Discs

Customer Writes:

After installing new flapper valve disc set in my Autotrol Valve,  I checked the function before powering up timer. The values all seemed to work. I then turned the water flow back on and have a flow from the drain line. I removed the cam and checked the flapper by hand each seems to close and open properly.
What is your suggestion?

** One of the Rear Valve Discs is not sealing ( last 2 are the Backwash, and the 3rd from last is Purge - Forward Rinse ).

This could be debris that flowed up into the head, or it could be cracked plastic inside the valve body where the valve disc "rest" and "seal" when closed ( standing straight up ).

** Recommend removing top plate ( all those little screws on top ) and valve discs ( they pull straight up and out ) and make a close inspection with a flash light for any signs of debris, or a cracked "port" inside the valve body.

** Repair may be as simple as clearing the debris ( which can be media from the tank, or some other odd thing ), or if valve body is cracked, then the valve body will need to be replaced ( if still available ), or complete valve head can be replaced by compatible current version of a similar Autotrol Valve. Email us for further assistance if this is the case ( cracked internal valve port ).

Follow up on Culligan Valve Replacement Question

Does the resin tank come with the tube that goes into it?

 

* Valve comes with new Bottom Distributor to make a new cente distributor pipe,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.valvereplacement

 

and how do you know what valve fits what tank?

 

* All Fleck and Autotrol Valves fit "standard" tanks ( which all tanks are standard unless you own a Culligan or Sears water softener ).

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/3100.media_tanks/

 

and for more about Resin replacing and Sizes of Tanks, and Quantity of Resins,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.resinreplacement

 

Culligan Valve Replacement Question

QUESTION:
I got a Culligan Medallist Series water softener and i want to get away from culligan.
What valve would replace the one I got.

 

* Sorry, none ( directly ).

 

All true Culligan Valves and Tanks have threads that are Proprietary.

Nothing else will fit on the tank. They designed everything about their systems to be proprietary ( thus requiring all parts and service to come through only their authorized Culligan Dealers ).

 

You can buy a new Valve ( Like the Fleck 5600 ).

AND a new Tank ( common one cu.ft. size would require a 9 x 48 tank ).

And then dump the resins into the new tank, and then screw the new valve onto the new tank.

 

The brine tank can be re-used ( only requiring purchase of 3/8" brine tubing and an adapter ( Elbow, 1/4 f x 3/8 c Fitting Plastic Jaco - our PN 584564NO ).

 

For additional help guides on Valve Replacement and Resin Replacement ( or re-use ), please refer to our Website www.softenerparts.com ( and the "Do It Yourself Repairs" section ).

 

Water Soft WSCB-32D water softener = Autotrol Valve Links

To my knowledge the Water Soft units ( WSCB-32D water softener ) use the Autotrol Valve made by the GE Water Treatment / Autotrol division.

 

The "CB" stands for Cabinet.

 The "32D", stands for 32,000 grain capacity ( one cu.ft. of resin used ) and Demand regeneration timer assembly ( typical the 460i ).

 

And the most common valve is the Autotrol 255 with the 460i Timer Assembly ( made after 1995, prior years would be the 155 valve ).

 

For Helpful guides On our website ( www.softenerparts.com ),

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.autotrol_service_hints.255w460i

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/0600/

 

and for manuals in pdf form for downloading on valve manufacturer's website;

see:

http://www.gewater.com/residential/manuals/index.jsp

 

Look at the 255 Valve / 400 Series Controls

and the 460i Electronic Control System Operation

 

How and Why to use Acid Neutralizing Media Calcite and Corosex ( Mangnesium Oxide )

If the water's pH is less then nuetral ( 7.0 ), then correction is required to prevent the water from corriding the metal in your plumbing.

Most common "symptoms" are blue stains from dissolved copper pipes, and iron staining problems from the water dissolving any iron ( in pipes or pumps or well casings ) that is has come in contact with.

A filter tank ( usually 10" x 54" ) is filled with either Calcite or Corosex ( Magnesium Oxide ).

Both are used to "raise" the pH of water that is acidic.

Which one and how much to use depends on the pH of your water. Calcite ( which is really just cushed marble ) dissolves slowly and is used when the pH is between 6.0 - 6.8 to raise to 7.0 - 7.5.

If the starting pH of the source water is less then 6.0, then Corosex may be needed as it dissolves faster.

And it is common to use a "mix" of 50/50 Calcite and Corosex.

These are media that must be ADDED to the Filter Tank every year ( anywhere from 6 months to no more than 2 years ).

And the way to "tell" is by checking the pH before and after the filter tank.

Also, you can measure the amount of media in the tank.

Normally the tank should be "filled" to about 60% full ( and not more, or you end up with media clogging the Valve during Backwash ), and not less than 30% full.

And note, there is always 5 - 8 inches of gravel used at the bottom of the tank as an "under bedding".

Occasionally the media becomes hard, and must be dumped and refilled with "fresh" media.

Or it becomes iron "fouled" and a complete re-bedding is the best way to improve the water quality.

This type of filter tank is almost always followed by a water softener used to remove the "hardness" added by the filter tank ( as the media dissolves it increases the hardness in the water ), and the softener can help remove iron that is often in the water.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/23A802101/Calcite_50_lbs_Bag_12_Cu_Ft.html

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/23A8011/Corosex_50_lbs_Bag_23_cubic_foot__23A8011.html

 

 

What is your phone # ?

Question:
I need to talk to someone before I order parts.

What is your phone #?

Answer:
* Please email if you need additional product information.
Email will be answered daily, so please send your questions.

********************
Question:
So are you saying I can't actually speak to one of your representatives?

Answer:
* What do you wish to speak about?

* What I am saying is we prefer email questions. As most questions can be
answered quickly by referring to answers on the website. As 95% of all
inquiries are similar, and we have the "answer" somewhere on the website or
on our BLOG.

Second reason, is time. It's easier to answer a question once in written
form as opposed to repeating myself 3 times on the phone ( as is sometimes
the case ).

Third, we had to remove our phone number from our contact page, because the
volume of inquiries became impossible to properly manage. We were missing
important calls from customers, in the process of answering questions from
home owners looking for free repairs by phone. All customers are instantly
given our customer support phone number with their online receipt.

* So, I encourage you to reply with your questions or concerns.

Clogged Injector in Iron Filter

Customer writes:

Thanks for your help.  The problem is described in detail below, but the short version is that I couldn't get the Potassium Permanganate to draw during the regeneration cycle, even after I checked the injection valves.   Your advice was essentially, "check them again, because they're the problem 99% of the time".  So I did, and you were right.  I'm writing this email to give you some feedback which may help others.

 

The green sand system - when I first checked the injection valve, it appeared clear.  I could see a nice round hole.   BUT, I didn't suspect that although I could see a hole, that it should have been Bigger.  When I inspected the second time, I again saw the hole, but used probe to scrape the walls and found a uniform crusty buildup.  When cleaned, the hole was twice the diameter!  It now draws fine.

 

 

Fleck 5600 Still Getting Stuck After Replacing the Pistons and Seals Kit

 CUSTOMER WRITES: 

I have purchased parts for my fleck 5600 system before and I am again having trouble.

The timer still gets STUCK.

I have rebuilt it ( new Pistons and Seals Kit ) twice and now am  not sure what to do. Unit is from 2002. Please call me.

 

** After talking to you I think it is just the Timer Motor. They can get "weak" and not be able to drive through the regeneration cycle.

And the motors used by Fleck from around 2000 - 2003 all had plastic drive gears that would not hold up well under pressure ( they begin to "wobble" and jump off the Idler Gear they "drive" ).

So, the next most likely step would be to REPLACE the Timer Motor ( avialable in 120 volt or 24 volt versions ). 
see:
http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3418743

And here is a LINK to the Video showing how easy it is to change.
see:
http://softenerparts.info/2008/06/18/replacing-the-timer-motor--187431--on-fleck-5600-valve.aspx

***** Other Possible Causes of the Valve Sticking or being Stiff

** Some water is really "ruff" ( high in minerals and iron ), and will wear 
out ( and create build up ) the Pistons and Seals every couple of years. And 
they would need to be replaced more often than "average" ( which is in the 
5 - 10 year range ).
 
** If the pistons and seal are new ( or almost new ) and the Valve is still 
stiff to turn, then you want to check two things.
 
1 ) Front Knob, as it can "split" where it attaches to the main gear shaft 
and cause drag then cycling around. You must remove the label to get to the screw in the center. Remove and inspect.
 see:
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3414177/Front_Knob_For_5600.html
 
2 ) Check the plastic "housing" where the Main Shaft Gear passes through the 
body. This area holds to small ball bearings that rest on springs, and 
sometimes the plastic cracks in this area. The result is "binding" under the 
pressure of regeneration cycling. Replacing the Housing ( transferring all parts from your old one to the new one ), or you can replace the Power Head ( cost more, but a lot easier ).
 see:
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3413170/Gear__Main_Gear_And_Shaft_For_5600__3413170.html
 and
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3413162010/Housing_wpin_Fleck_5600__3413162010.html
 

Parts - Culligan

Can you get Culligan parts or recommend where?

* ** Sorry, but we can not provide parts or service information for Culligan systems.

Culligan systems are 100% proprietary.

Parts and Service are only available from your local authorized Culligan Dealer.

 

Tectonic Water Softener Model # CB-32D

I am trying to locate a parts list & schematics for the

Tectonic Water Softener Model #CB-32D.

 

I have called the following Tectonics and was referred

to a company it had be sold to: CSI: Water Soft. Water Soft

in turn referred me to your company Softenerparts.com

 

*****

Tectonic was a proprietary Valve used on a line of cabinet model system.

We do not have ( but are trying to get ) the parts diagram ( schematics ) for this unit.

We do have several photos sent to use by owners of this system.

The Valve was made by Fleck ( now part of Pentair Water Treatment ), and the Valve Body is based on the Fleck 5600, which we have all the parts and diagrams for.

So, if the problem is in the lower portion of the Valve, or with the By Pass, you will find these parts under our Fleck 5600 parts section,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/1100.fleck5600parts/

 

* If the problem is with the Drive Assembly ( power head ), it would need to be replaced entirely with the Fleck 5600 Econominder ( metered ) power head ( D = metered, or Demand ).

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3460354/Power_Head__5600_Metered_Standard__Control_Valve_Drive__3460354.html

 

NOTE: The Tectonic Cover will NOT fit the Fleck 5600 power head, but the cover is really an option not required for indoor installation.

Covers are available for the Fleck 5600 Standard and "L" Designer power heads we sell.

 

OR another option is to replace the ENTIRE valve with a new COMPLETE Fleck 5600 Econominder Valve.

Retaining the use of the Tanks, Resin, and By Pass of the Tectonics.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3405600102

 

 

North Star or Sears Valve - Error 3 after replacing motor

  I have a Kenmore water softener with a few problems. I replaced the motor a few months ago. Worked fine until recently. I got a error 3 code, which I believe is motor torque. I removed the motor and still has the code after clearing it. Any ideas?

 

* Motor failure is sometimes caused by the "drag" caused by the Rotor Disc and Seal Kit.

It is often NECESSARY to Rebuild the moving parts and not just replace the motor when stalling occurs.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/7199232/Rotor_Disc_Sears_GE_NorthStar_7199232_7103964_WS26X10002.html

 

Hopefully you have not damaged the new motor yet, and rebuilding the valve will be enough to fix the valve.

 

Error Code 3 can also be the switch,

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/7030713/Switch__7030713_WS21X10003.html

 

and see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/2600.sears.troubleshooting/

 

 

H2OW TO Softener = Fleck 5600 SE valve on 10 x 19 tank in cabinet

* Customer wrote in looking for replacement tank for HOW TO ( H2ow To ) softener:

Andrew,The hole in the top is approx.2 3/4" across-the overall height is 18 3/4" tall - outer diameter is approx.

10" - and the circumference is approx.32 1/2" around.

 

* After viewing photos of valve and tank, I replied:

 

The Valve is the Fleck model 5600 SE with Fleck's plastic by pass ( 60049 ) and yoke.

All standard design and parts.

The Tank is standard opening ( standard  2 1/2" x 8 NPT opening looks like 2 3/4" ).

The height is unusual. Very short.

Do you have your heart set on a 10" x 18"?

I'd say yours is 10" x 19", judging from the photo.

I found a 10" x 19" fiberglass used for small hot water softeners, and this may be available ( at almost double the cost of the "standard" size tanks we sell ).

 

Your unit only holds 1/2 cu.ft. of resin in it ( 16,000 grains ).

Enough for average city water  or well water with no iron and hardness less than 20 grains.

 

A low cost replacement would be the 10" x 35" tank.

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/60RT1035/Tank__10_x_35_Polyglass_No_Base_Almond.html

 

It could be shipped with a Base ( no extra charge ), and stand next to your brine cabinet, or without base in the cabinet, but you would have to leave the top off, as the new height would be much taller than your small cabinet.

 

And you could technically double your resin capacity to One Cu.Ft. with this tank ( that is what "normal" size cabinet softeners use, 10" x 35" and 1 cu.ft. resin ).

 

And you could use the free standing ( with base ) 8" x 44" tank and use up to 3/4 cu.ft. of resin.

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/86844HTP/Tank__8_x_44_Almond_Polyglass_wBase.html

 

*REPAIR PARTS for How To system:

And if you ever need parts for your valve, they would be listed under Fleck 5600 parts, or some items are "special" for the SE ( simple electronics ) version, and would be best "Searched" using the term "5600SE" in the product search box.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/1100.fleck5600parts/

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/346065200/Timer_Circuit_Board_SE_Fleck_60652_or_42099_or_40283__346065200.html

 

Autotrol Brine Refill Problem - No water in salt tank

 

Does the tank float have to touch the bottom of the tank to siginal the autotrol to put water into the brine tank

* No.

 

or is it metered after the brine is injected into the softener    ( I'm wondering if the float is in the wrong position)

 

* Float is to prevent OVERFLOWING, and does not control refill.

Refill is a "timed" cycle ( at the end of the regeneration process ),

AND

The "flow" rate of this timed refill is controlled by the Brine Control Dial.

This sometimes gets clogged and requires cleaning ( it unscrews from the Valve Body ).

 

See:

http://www.softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP1F19/Brine_Control_Dial_319_lbs_1F19_or_1034263.html

 

 

Visual Guide for Installing Rotor Disc and Seal Kit Sears Type Valve

See animation from the Morton softener site - the link is below.  Their
softener is another variant of the Ecowater/NorthStar/Sear/GE Smartwater type system.  The animations are almost identical to the animations on the Kenmore site, except the Morton animation also shows the flow paths, disassembly and reassembly of the complete valve body, including all the o-rings.  It also shows the complete float assembly - Kenmore site doesn't show either of these assemblies last time I checked.

After the link is pulled up you have the option to run program - I had to
click the button twice - may just be my browser but I figured I'd mention
it.
http://www.systemsaver.com/morton-website/instructions/index.html

 

Replacing motor in the 440i Timer Assembly

I bought an electric motor for my autotrol 440i. I can not figure out how to remove the motor. There is no screw in this one only a clip at the top and bottom. I can not turn it to remove it. Help!

 

* You must take the case a part from the front ( remove tripper arm gear and skipper wheel ), carefully unsnapping the gray cover from the black back plate. Press the black output "button" in as you pull cover up from the bottom.

THEN you can remove the two gears above the motor from the INSIDE, and you will be able to turn the motor from the back and remove ( once you've taken the gears out that prevent the motor from being turned from the rear ). Re-assembly is the reverse.

It's a bit of a "pain", but it can be done. Just take your time with it.

 

Sears Valve Body drips at INLET

Customer Writes:

I have a Sears water softener.  Model 625.348590

It is leaking where the supply side water inlet goes into the top valve body.  Just drip drip drip all the time.  quite a bit of water.   I believe I need to get part number 7082053 ( Valve Body standard ).  That is the part in the Sears web site schematic.  I need to check something on that part though.

looking at this image, the top left is the inlet and the bottom left is the outlet.  Inside the inlet, just behind the clip slot (about an inch in from the top left), there is a little "step" that the mating part "butts" up against.  On mine, one side of this is smooth while the "step" goes about 3/4 of the way around.  I think over 10 years of hard water, the "step" on that side has "eroded" away.  I believe that is where the water seeps out since there is nothing for the mating part to butt up against on that side.

Can you check and see that the parts your parts have the step molded into the inlet side and that it goes all the way around the inside of the hole ?

If you look down the "throat" of the inlet, the circle on the left is what mine looks like now.  The circle on the right is how I think it should look. I think the water leaks out where there is no step anymore.

 

***************

    Thanks for the detailed explanation and diagram. 

* I checked the Valve Bodies we have in stock. They ALL are made the way you describe.

The inner portion of the Inlet has a "step" that only goes around 3/4 of the way. The Outlet is 100%.

And I noticed the larger version valve bodies ( 7171145 ) have NO "step".

I believe the KEY to not leaking is the Oring ( 7170288 ) and the condition of the Plastic valve body.

They are regular plastic, so over time they can warp or crack.

We have been selling a lot of these every month. So, your problem is fairly common.

Sears and GE Smartwater - Water Not Soft - Distributor Oring problem and solution

Sears Kenmore, NorthStar, and GE Smartwater softeners use the same clamp to tank valve for the past 15 plus years. On occasion the distributor oring that fits on the outside of the riser pipe will slip up and off the center pipe in the resin tank.

Here is the way one customer solved this problem ( problem caused by the pipe being just a little too short ).

*

I pulled the central tube out completely with the bottom distributor ( # 10 and # 11 ) and cleaned it.  Since I needed approximately 1/8" extension to prevent the O-ring ( # 7 ) from slipping out at the top, I cut the tube at two places, about 10" central piece, keeping at least 6" at the top piece in order to be able to slip the top distributor ( # 9 ) on top without hitting the inserted coupler.  I used two 3/4" PVC couplers to glue the three pieces together.  This extended the length by 1/8" (each coupler has a central shoulder of 1/16").  Waited till the joint dried and lowered the tube into the tank.  While lowering, some resins oozed out of the tank, may be couple of handfuls.  Carefully assembled the rest of the parts and then started the recharge. Glad to say it is working fine so far.  I waited till it recharged and soft water is flowing once again before writing this E-mail.

I would say this may also be possible to extend by using only one 3/4"  PVC coupler, but you will need to carefully judge the amount of "extension" you need to add to prevent the oring from slipping off the top.

This problem is most common on city water because of the higher water pressure and the chlorine causing the resins to swell, but can occur on any type water, since the primary issue is the pipe being a little bit short.

 

Low Pressure Through Softener On Well Water

PROBLEM:

Our water comes from a well and is not chlorinated.  The water pressure is good coming in but no pressure coming out.   What is the problem?

 

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

1 ) A filter ( used in 12 inch housing ) that needs to be cleaned or replaced installed BEFORE the water softener.

OR if you don't have one of those.

 

2 ) A tank on well water can fill with Sand ( you would notice some in the house ).

3 ) A tank on well water installed OUTSIDE, using a light color ( like Almond ) and no "jacket" ( to protect from the sunlight ) can grow a thick layer of algae inside the tank. This layer will break off and then clog the slot of bottom distributor in the resin tank.

4 ) IF you have an Autotrol Valve, the Timer Assembly may be sliding up. The Timer Assembly is held in place by a small timer retaining pin ( old pn 5f ). The Timer Assembly is what holds the Camshaft down in place. The Camshaft ( on Autotrol Valves ) must hold open the # 2 and # 3 Valve Discs to allow water to flow through the Valve - Tank - into the house. The "output" connector ( old pn 21E ) could also be broken. It is the part of the Timer Assembly that holds the Camshaft.

 

Problem with filter - New Microline CTA Membrane

* Customer Writes:

I ordered a set of three Microline filters from you at the beginning of the year ( S1224RS CTA Membrane, S7011 Sediment Prefilter, & S7025 GAC Post Filter).

I installed the filters and noticed that only a drip was coming out of the faucet.  I waited overnight and tried and with the same results.  I then took the first filter out and saw good flow.  I took the second filter out and saw good flow.  The third filter was only getting drips, there was no flow.  My conclusion is that the middle filter ( S1224RS CTA Membrane) is not functioning perhaps it is clogged.  

Have you experienced this before.  Do you have any advice on how to get the filter working.

* ANSWERS:

The middle "filter" is the membrane, and it only makes the water very slowly ( drips ), and that is why it must collect in the storage tank over night. Make sure your storage tank shut off is "on", and that it has the proper air pressure.

See:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.commonroproblems

 

and

 

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/5100.membrane_info/

 

* At this point, what you are describing sounds close to normal. The CTA membranes are the slowest producers of water, and when new, they can take several days to get up to full production rate.

Please, let me know if you need further assistance.

Culligan Valve Replacement

QUESTION:

I have a Culligan Medalist outdoor water softener Serial # 48151804J23 
around 3 1/2 years old plagued with problems. I want to replace the entire 
mechanism from the tank up.
 My question is: Can I replace the entire mechanism with a simple mechanical 
one from the tank up? Are all tanks the same? And which one would you 
recommend?
 
*ANSWER:

 You must replace the Tank and the Valve, since both are proprietary in 
design. Here is my recommendation. 
***
 You need a new Tank ( here is one that holds 1 cu.ft. of resins ),
 see:
 http://www.softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/86948HTPBK/Tank__9_x_48_Black_Polyglass_wBase.html
 
and you can Re-Use your resins in most cases,
 see:
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.resinreplacement
 
And the brine tank can be used, but you will need some 3/8" O.D. Tubing  and 
this 1/4" female x 3/8" compression fitting,
 see:
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/584564NO/Elbow_14_f_x_38_c_Fitting_Plastic_Jaco__584564NO.html
 
and I recommend "Lock Leak" to seal the connection,
 see:
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/LL1080/Thread_Sealant_Lock_Leak_Tube_39_ml.html
 
* For the Valve, I recommend the Fleck 5600 Econominder,
 see:
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3405600102/Valve__Fleck_5600_Metered_Softener_Valve.html
 
and be sure to read the How To Replace guide,
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.valvereplacement
 
You will need to select either a 3/4" or 1" plastic male yoke

or the Fleck Stainless Steel By Pass 3/4" or 1" to connect the new Fleck valve to your pipes. 

Outdoor installations should also include the optional Valve cover ( must be ordered separately, as most people do not need the cover for their indoor installations ).
 
 

Setting Time of Day with the Autotrol 440 Tripper Arm Gear 99F

QUESTION:

Could you please tell me how to set the timer on my unit.

I just ordered AP99F tripper gear from you. Mine has a broken tooth on it. When I replace it how do I set the timing on it? I don't have a manual on it.

The timer is a 440i Osmonics Autotrol.

ANSWER:

*** The small "pointer" on the Tripper Arm Gear points to the current time of day ( as shown on the "face plate" of the time ).

You just pull gear out, and point it at the correct time and release.

It will drop into place with the black drive gear in the right corner that drives the tripper arm gear in the 440 and 440i Timer Assemblies.

see:

http://www.softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP1000601/Face_Plate_440_Timer.html

SEE HOW TO VIDEO:
440 Timer Assembly Operation

 

Orange Sand coming into House
Our resin tank appears to have failed. The system filled our house plumbing with an orange sand like material. We close the bypass valve and flushed the system. What should we do with the water conditioner repair or replace? Is the resin tank warranty good for life the system. Our system is 10 years old.

ANSWER
Repair. Most warranties expire after 5 years. This problem is very common on chlorinated "city" water, but can occur on well water too.
The distributor tube inside the resin tank has failed. You can replace the distributor tube by purchasing a new "Bottom" distributor and gluing it to a piece of PVC pipe.
See:
http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/MD1236
This part combines with a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe( 1.05" O.D. ), which may be a little larger in diameter than the 13/16" O.D. size you may have now ( if your system is an Autotrol made before 1998, that is about the time they changed to the larger size now used on all new valves ). Many other brands have been using the larger 1.05" diameter tube for a longer time. If need be, you can adapter to the opening in the bottom of your valve ( the tube is held into the Valve by an oring, so it pulls out and pushes back in ) by saving 6" of your old 13/16" pipe and gluing it INSIDE the 3/4 PVC pipe ( it is a nice tight fit when using Schedule 40 PVC ).
You will want to check the resin level in the tank. It needs to be at least 1/2 full.
See: http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.resinreplacement

Performa Valves Keep Breaking 440i Timers - Solution is...

* Problem:

We have dual tanks for well water with 268/440i controllers. One is for
an iron filter, the other a brine tank. We are running into a situation
where timers have been destroyed because the camshaft is too hard to
turn when they go to a refill cycle. (It took a while, and a couple of
timers, to figure this out.) We relieved the pressure on each tank,
checked the flappers, and couldn't see a problem. They moved very easily
while the pressure was down. Once we got the system up to pressure,
though, you really have to shove the refill valves hard to get them to
move. (First it was the iron filter, and now the softener valve has the
same problem.)

Have you ever heard of this?

* YES!!

 I would think that I need to replace the flapper valves and timers, but is there something else we should look
at?

* Not Flapper Valves, but the Timer and Camshaft.

 

We checked for obstructions, and I don't think that's the issue.

 

* The issue is the Timer and Camshaft.

Autotrol has Revised the Timers ( effective January 2008 ) and they have Revised the Camshafts to help prevent this very common problem.

See:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP440IHV/AP440IHV__440_Replacement_Timer_Assembly_440i_HV_wCord.html

and here are the new camshafts.

Softener,

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP1035625/AP1035625__Camshaft_268_Performa_Valve_Softener_Black_1035625.html

 

Iron Filter,

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP1030376/AP1030376__Camshaft_268_Performa_Valve_Iron_Filter_Purple_1030376.html

 

and here is the "notice" about them.

 

 

 

Fleck 5600 parts rebuild with or without replacing the Timer Motor

Your parts rebuild kit should also contain one, 1/30th timer motor. When
the piston gets stuck in the seals or is very hard to drive thru
regeneration, the timer motor's internal gears strip out. So if someone
was
to rebuild their fleck 5600, it would still get stuck in cycle.

* Thank you for your comment.
I believe it is only true about 5% of the time. That is my experience from
years of "rebuilding" valves personally ( since 1989 ), and also selling
hundreds of rebuild kits online ( since 1999 ).
We mention you might need a new timer motor in our How to Rebuild guide,
but
I feel it would be unfair to tell Every One they needed to replace the
motor
at the same time they replace the Pistons & Seals.

Will Microline Filters Fit AquaPro TFC-4 RO System

I have an aquapro TFC-4 RO system installed in my home.   I need replacement filters and am having a hard time locating them.   I see filters labeled as for TFC-4 on your website, but I'm not sure if they are what I'm looking for.    Can you please confirm if they are compatible?

* I can not confirm without seeing your filters or perhaps your unit. You can email photos to us.

* We stock and sell the common Microline 11 1/2" length replacement filter cartridges. There is a rarely used shorter and fatter version ( about 10 1/2" ) we can not sell, but units can be adapted to use the shorter version by replacing the sump housings ( all 3 )  with longer version (  Part Number S7029-09 ) we sell at www.softenerparts.com. 

Here is the Short Fatter Filter compared to the Longer Microline S7025 we sell:

 

Water Flowing to Salt Tank after replacing Brine Valve Piston Assembly Fleck part 60032

Hi , I just received a new repair kit # 56PSKIT and have installed it, however it now puts too much water into the brine tank, so much so the float in the brine tank rises and shuts it off.  What have I done wrong?  I thought I followed the instructions to a T.  Please advise

 

** Perhaps when you replaced the Brine Valve Piston Assembly ( 60032 )  you accidentally pulled out the oring ( 13302 ) that sits in the bottom of the hole which the valve is installed in.

 Or at least the oring came out 1/2 way, and you have jammed the Brine Valve onto the oring and it is not sitting flat.

 

** Remove the Brine valve and look in the hole for this oring. If you do not see it, look on the floor around the unit. If you have lost it, you can use the one that is on your old Brine Valve, as there is another 13302 oring on the Brine Valve ( it is on the white plastic portion of the assembly ). And of course we sell new ones at Softenerparts.com.

 

Handling Charges in the U.K.

Many thanks for the excellent service. I believe my package is waiting for me to collect it from the Post Office. The reason for this note is that you may wish to draw to the attention of folk buying from the UK, the fact that our Post Office charges approx $16 to cover their handling of the package through our customs!!!

Quite a shock to me having paid only $55 for the parts. I'm still happy with the service and your prices. Keep up the great work.

Update: The post office charges for collecting any duty and taxes due in the UK. I was only charged tax – around $9 which I'm happy to pay but the post office charges $16 for collecting the tax for the inland revenue (customs). Goods under $36 (£18) don't attract the charges.

How to Set Meter without the People or Hardness Labels on Fleck Econominder Valves

Andrew,

Thank you for the very prompt shipping of my Fleck 5600 Econominder Controller. I've purchased two items from you and both times the shipping has been excellent.

I have a question though. As you can see in the attached photo the old controller had a "People Dial" and a "Water Hardness Dial". I used that to set my controller (e.g. I have 3 people here and the hardness is about 15). The new controller does not have either.

What is the appropriate way to set this controller given my prior settings at 3 people and a hardness of about 15?

Thank you,
Mike S.      Mesa, AZ

*** Great Question:
We do not use the People and Hardness Labels on our replacement Econominder Valves and Power Heads, because they are tank specific. For example, the one in the photo is made for a Resin Capacity of 24,000 ( 24K CAP ), and would be incorrect to use on any other size resin tank. To avoid getting the wrong label ( and they do not come in "all sizes", only 2 or 3 ), we do not use any labels. In your case, you could set the "white" dot to the number 14, to match how your old valve was set. If you have a common One Cu.Ft. system ( usually a 9 x 48 resin tank ), then this is about where you want to be set, as your "working" capacity is about 1,600 gallons.

Here is how to figure meter settings,

 The setting ( each digit equals 100 gallons ) on the 5600 meter determines how much water is used before a regeneration is run ( at 2 a.m. ).
It does not regenerate every night, but only as water usage dictates the need.

To compute the proper setting of the program meter wheel ( dial on the front of control ), you must know your hardness ( & iron level, if any ).
You also must know the capacity of your resin tank.
The average size resin tank is 9" x 48" and holds one cubic foot of resin. Resin has a maximum capacity of 32,000 grains removal ( when regenerated with about 18 lbs. of salt ).
Softeners should be sized and set to work at 75% capacity ( which requires half as much salt ).
With the capacity and the hardness level known ( add 3 grains hardness for each ppm of iron present in the water ), you are ready to set your program wheel.

Computing Gallon Setting
Take the grains capacity of your resin tank times 75% ( 0.75 ) divided by hardness ( in grains ),
then subtract 75 gallons per person using the water as a reserve.

Example: 32,000 grains x .75 = 24,000 divide by 20 grains hardness = 1,200 gallons - 150 ( 2 people ) = 1,050 setting.

You set the gallons by lifting the clear portion of the program wheel, and align the white dot with the number of gallons you wish the unit to use prior to initiating a regenerate ( the night following the meter reaching Zero ).

Also the salt setting should be 9 lbs. per cu. ft. of resins ( 32,000 grains ).
You can find this adjustment on the "Brine Cam" gear inside the back of your control head. It is a small halve moon shaped piece that it held on to the Brine Cam with one screw. It has a small pointer which indicates the pounds of salt to be used per regeneration.

If you do not know your resin tank capacity, send us the tank's height and diameter, and we will let you know how much resin is normally used in your size tank. We will also do the rest of the math for you, if provide the hardness & iron levels ( note: most "city" water does not contain iron ). Also, you might need to know that 17.1 ppm of hardness = 1 grain of hardness.


How To Move Program Wheel To Set Gallons:

1 ) The "locking" teeth are under the part that says ( x100 ), so this is the critical area that must lift.
2 ) It is VERY HELPFUL ( maybe NECESSARY ) if you hold the Black Gear "down" while pulling up on the Clear portion.
3 ) Turn the Clear Portion counter clockwise, and Black Gear Clockwise
4 ) Line up "white" dot with the gallon setting you've computed.

SEE HOW TO VIDEO:

How To Move Program Wheel To Set Gallons

ECO-friendly alternative to SALT softeners?

 

Is there are ECO-friendly alternative to SALT softeners?

 

***

"ECO-friendly"?

Salt is "natural", and not unfriendly.

Some plants like salty water, but most do not.

Salt is necessary for life, but too much ( of anything ) is harmful.

 

To be more specific:

You can use Potassium Chloride ( a type of salt ) instead of Sodium Chloride ( common "salt" ) to regenerate the resins in the tank. This regeneration is required to "charge" the beads with a strong negative ion charge. With this negative charge, the resins are able to attract and remove positive ion molecules ( calcium, magnesium, iron, etc ) from the water.

See:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/4100/

 

The only other methods for removing these from your water are Distilling, or Reverse Osmosis. Both of these two processes require equipment that is very expensive and operate by producing "pure" water slowly, requiring large storage tanks, and re-pressurization pumps to feed your home with the water produced. Also, this water is so "pure", it is slightly corrosive, and commonly some "hardness" minerals need to be reintroduced to prevent corrosion of the metal plumbing in the home.

 

There are also advertised some "salt free" systems on the market. They do not remove the hardness minerals, nor iron from the water. The "catalytic" process does not give all the benefits of "ion exchange" softeners, and most people are not happy with the results provided by these system ( which have been around in one form or another for decades ). I have only talked to the dissatisfied consumers who had to get their money back, and have a "real" water softener installed.

 

Believe me, if I knew of a "better way" to soften water that did not use any type of Salt ( NaCl or KCl ), I'd be selling it and promoting it. I always check out "the latest" and "newest way" to treat water, and so far nothing has been developed to replace the ion exchange method of softening water.

 

And the "salt discharged" from the softeners is only a problem is you drain it out into your yard, where it can cause some plants to die. If this is a concern, then you can use the more expensive ( and 90% as efficient ) "salt substitute" Potassium Chloride ( KCl ), instead of Sodium Chloride. The Potassium acts as a "fertilizer", and is less harmful to plant life.

 

It should also be noted here, that most water naturally contains some level of salts.

To understand Salt better, SEE:

http://www.saltinstitute.org/15.html

 

***

 

How do you determine if you actually need a softener?

* If the water is hard, and most is, then you will benefit from having a water softener on your home. Most people will learn to "deal with" hardness up about 20 grains. Problems caused by hard water actually start at about 3 grains. Water harder than 10 grains has many noticeable "by products". Any time the water is used, a residue is left. This is Calcium and Magnesium that will form a solid that requires special cleaners ( mild acids ) to remove. For more information to help determine if you actually "need" a water softener, please see this link that explains how a softener works, the benefits, and the average hardness in various locations in the U.S.A.

* Iron in the water is another reason you could benefit from a water softener. The RESINS in the tank will remove about 3 ppm per cu.ft. of media used ( average size residential softener is 9" x 48" and uses One Cu. Ft. of Resins ). The use of some type of "iron" cleaning in with the salt helps keep the Resins clean. The size of the softener system ( size of tank, and amount of Resins inside ) is an important aspect to be considered before purchasing a water softener on high iron water. Feel free to ask us for advice.

See How A Water Softener Works:

http://www.softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/4100/

 

 

How do you put a softener out of service without damaging it?

* Simply "by pass" the water flow to the softener or shut water off.   
And unplug electric. If it the tank is in an area that could Freeze, move Tank to area that Can't Freeze.

Freezing can damage the Resins, Tank, and / or Valve.
* When you are ready to use the softener again, besides turning the water back on, restoring electric to control, and setting time of day,  you will want to manually start a regeneration of the system to "freshen" up the water in the Tank, before using the water in the home.

 

No Salt Systems for Water Softening

I see ads for "No Salt" needed water conditioners. 
How do they work without using salt?

1. Many dealers will advertise a no salt water conditioner. Any brand of water conditioner can be operated without using salt. This is done by using a salt substitute, potassium chloride. It generally cost twice as much as regular salt ( sodium chloride ), and can be difficult to find in some areas. Also, it is recommend to increase the salt setting on your control valve by about 10 % , when using a salt substitute. This is because it is not as efficient in provided the needed negative ions to the resin beads as regular salt.

2. Some companies offer catalytic filters and/or magnetic devices to soften your water that do not use salt, or anything else to regenerate their product. Buyer beware! If a technology had been developed that could replace a resin based water conditioner, then everyone would be selling it. I know I would. Those salt bags are heavy :)

For more detials, I'd recommend this webpage written by a retired chemist. http://www.chem1.com/CQ/

Salt is Not Going Down

My Valve appears to be operating but the Salt is Not Going Down.
What could cause this problem?

The salt not going down could be due to many different reasons.

1 ) Valve is not regenerating due to a problem with Timer Motor or a bad gear in the timer assembly ( common in Autotrol Timer Assemblies ).
2 ) Salt may be Bridged ( become solid ) above water that is at the bottom of the salt tank.
3 ) If you have been using Pellet salt for many years you could have a lot of undissolvable residue at the bottom. This residue will not dissolve and also can block water flow in and out of the salt tank.
4 ) The Valve could be failing to draw the brine solution out and if you have a float shut off in the brine tank, it would be prevent the salt tank from overflowing ( which it would do if the float shut off was not there ).
5 ) The brine refill control could be clogged, prevent water to refill the salt tank.

How to use Autotrol By Pass - Old Style

Question:

How do you turn the bypass valve on / off ?

What does 61F do?

 

******************

 

The old style Autotrol By Pass Valves use a "push in" method of redirecting the flow.

If you push the knob ( 46F )  IN on the RIGHT ( standing in front of the system ), this will place the valve in "by pass" and cause the knob ( another 46F ) on the left to come out about an inch.

To "restore" flow through the Control Valve and resin tank, you would Push the knob on the Left back IN.

PUSHING the knob can require extreme force. A hard "push" with your fist, or a "tap" with a hammer, may be required.

 

Sometimes engaging the By Pass fails to cut off the valve flow to the Control Valve 100%, because the internal oring in the center of the by pass shaft is not sealing 100%. This common failure is the main reason Autotrol now uses a different design ( double shut off - redirecting valves ) for the "new" style By Pass for their Control Valves.

 

The part labeled 61F does not "do anything". And I've never seen this used for anything.

See diagrams,

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.autotrol_service_hints.autotrolbypassrepair

 

 

Rainsoft Amazon Gold Series Seals ( Gaskets ) and Spacers are Fleck Parts

The valve body of the Rainsoft Amazon Gold Series is basically the Fleck 5000 or  newer Pro Flow version of the Model 5000 valve.

Rainsoft has added their own proprietary electronic timer assembly, but the Valve Body Parts, and By Pass Valve are common to other Fleck Valves.

 

The Seals and Spacers ( KIT part number 60120 or 60125 minus "end spacer" ) can be purchased from any dealer of Fleck parts.
The Seals are pn 13242 ( quantity 5 ) and the Spacers are pn 14241 ( quantity 4 ) , and the end spacer is pn 18264 ( and this part can normally be re-used, that is why the 60125 Kit will work ).

Here is a link to the 60125 Seals and Spacers Kit:
http://www.softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3460125

 

Tank Diameter - How to Measure and Why It Matters

Do you just measure the outer resin tank diameter?

* Yes, you measure the fiberglass tank that contains the resins ( or other
media ).
Do not be "fooled" by plastic decorative "jackets" sometimes placed over the
fiberglass ( or polyglass ) tank.
The diameter is the measurement ACROSS the WIDTH of the tank, or the
circumference ( around ) the tank divided by pi ( 3.14 ).
And you should "round down" to the whole number ( i.e. 8.34 would be 8
inches ).

Why do you need this measurement?

* The proper Backwash Flow Rate to be used is determined by the diameter of
the tank.
The larger the diameter, the higher the flow rate required to properly
expand and clean the resin bed.
If your current valve body is an "Autotrol" type, it has a "Backwash" Plug
( PN 25F ) that has a small
number ( and the words "Backwash" ) on it. This number normally corresponds
to
the diameter of the resin tank.
See:
http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP25F

* Fleck valves use DLFC ( drain line flow control ) buttons. The gpm is
sometimes marked near the drain fitting outlet.
See:
http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3412087

* Also, the injector size used in the Valve is determined by the diameter
of the resin
tank.
Autotrol valve examples,
See:
http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP28F

And for Fleck Valves,
See:
http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/34INJECTOR

Clearing Memory in Sears, GE, and NorthStar Circuit Board

When you have an unusually high water usage day, your softener's electronic
control will "remember" this for a long time.
In the case of the controllers commonly used in Sears, GE, and NorthStar
this could be 3 or 4 months before things would return to normal.
The problem caused by this "memory" is that the unit will be regenerating
more often than normal, because it is remembering the high usage, and
averages this into it's calculations of capacity remaining.
It "errs" on the side of caution, and ends up regenerating sooner than it
"really" needs to.

To reset this memory:
1 ) Hold "Select" button for 3 seconds, until 000 appears, then release.
2 ) Hold UP Arrow to "see" days the system has been plugged into the
electric, and release.
3 ) Hold DOWN Arrow to "see" number of times the system has regenerated
since it was first installed, and release.
NOW
4 ) Hold "Select" button for another 3 seconds to see the SR, or Model
code.
Write this number down.
5 ) Having released the "Select" button, and recording your actual model
code, then you can use the UP or DOWN Arrow to change your Model Code.
6 ) Press "Select" one time and you will see the time of day flashing 12:00
a.m.
7 ) Use the Arrow keys to move the time a few minutes, thus causing it to
"set" this new time.
FINALLY
8 ) Go back and do 1 - 7 again, only this time, at step 5, reset the
original model code, and at step 7, put in the correct time of day.
* NOTE: The number of regenerations since unit installed will be reset to
Zero. If you want to have this information for future referrence, be sure
to
write this down.

How Long Until Water Feels Soft Again After Repair

It can take several regenerations, and the "using up" of the Hot Water to get the "feel" back.

It is recommended that you manually have the system run extra regenerations and to drain the hot water ( either at the hot water tank, or at least running the water in the bath tub until it turns cold ).

 

So, unless you regenerate the system twice in a row, and completely drain the hot water tank, it may take several days or even weeks to get back to Zero hardness in the Hot Water.

The Cold water should be soft right away.

 

And if you don't feel like it is softening at all, then TEST the water hardness ( test strips available from Softenerparts.com, and locally - Sears, Home Depot, Lowes ).

A test before and after the softener will help determine if the system is working.

 

 

Does Softenerparts.com ship to Canada

Yes. We ship to Canada all the time.

Small parts under 12 ounces can be shipped by Air Mail for our standard shipping and handling.
Parts usually arrive in about one week.

Items between 13 ounces and 10 lbs. can be shipped by Express Mail (
starting at $ 25.00 EXTRA ) which is normally 5 business days delivery.

We can ship items up to 4 lbs. by regular Air Mail for less, but we have
found they can get held up in "Customs" for 2 - 4 weeks, there is no tracking, and therefore do
not like using standard First Class Air Mail for any items over 12 ounces.

Please send list of items you want to order, if you need a "shipping quote".

Orders can and should be placed online. We will add extra shipping costs
after we receive your order. You can REQUEST Express Mail shipping upgrade during check out. An ORDERS NOTE section is provided AFTER you enter your Address Information.

We will attempt to email a shipping quote before applying any extra costs.
ANY TAX or DUTY will be paid by YOU when order is delivered, we do NOT collect this in advance.

3.2.1 Customs Duties and Taxes
Canadian Customs Requirements
Customs Duties, Taxes and Exemptions
3.2.1

Any item mailed into Canada is potentially subject to duty and/or taxes with few exceptions. Visit the CBSA web site at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/security-securite/cbcr-dmte/menu-eng.html for more information on mail imports. The CBSA collects provincial sales taxes (PST) on most taxable imports valued at over $20CDN entering Quebec, Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan and British Columbia. The CBSA also collects Harmonized Sales Taxes (HST) on most taxable imports entering Newfoundland and Labrador, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.

Bruner Valve - Old and New Styles

Older Bruner softeners used an Autrol model 160 valve in late 1970s and early 80s.

This model is like the 155 valve in size, but does not use an "air check" on the valve. In this regard, it is like the 168 model.

The thing that made this valve "unique" is the side mount By Pass connection.

 

The timer assembly is the 440 version, and this was and is ( newer 440i )  used on most Autotrol valves to this day.

The time of day is set by the small pointer. The large arm will "trip" at 2:30 a.m to push the "skipper" wheel that has days of regeneration.

For each pin pushed IN the unit will regenerate that night at 2:30 - 4:00 a.m.

 

All of the parts for the 440 timer, and most of the parts for the Valve are still available.

Most of the trouble shooting and service hints for the Autotrol 155 would apply to this valve.

See:

http://www.softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/0600/

 

 

In the 1980s and early 90s Bruner used their own proprietary design valve.

Newer, "true Bruner" valve, is no longer made and parts are no longer available.

 

 

 

It is possible to replace the entire valve, and re-use the tanks.

See:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.valvereplacement

 

Too much Sodium in the Water?

Is the sodium added to softened water a problem for people to drink?

Only if a person is on an extremely restrictive diet, he should drink neither hard nor softened water. Under these conditions, he should use reverse osmosis, or distilled water for drinking and cooking. For a normal person, the small amount of  sodium in water is not a problem or concern. Especially when compared to other foods.

Even hard water may contain appreciable amounts of sodium. To determine the amount a complete analysis of the water is necessary.

It is important to note that about 2/3 of the daily water intake of the individual is through food and only about 1/3 water itself.

SODIUM CONTENT OF COMMON FOODS IN A TYPICAL DAILY DIET
The Food	Amount	Milligrams of Sodium
Milk	2 cups	226
Eggs	1 of medium size	56
Steak	6 ounces	110
Bread	2 slices	278
Cereal	1/2 cup	21
Potatoes	1 small	30
Green salad with 1 oz French Dressing	1 serving	30
Vegetables (other)	3 servings	120
Fruit	2 servings	50
Fruit (citrus)	1 serving	6
Water after typical water softener	8 ounces	25 average

Autotrol 440 Timer Rebuilding

An obvious problem that can occur is for the timer motor to fail.

The motors turn at 1 rpm, so it is quite easy to tell if it is turning.

A more common problem is for one or more of the drive gears to strip.

Removing the Tripper Arm screw, the Skipper Wheel screw and the three cover plate screws will gain you complete access to all components for careful examination.

It is easier to work on your timer housing if you remove it from the valve body.

Pull out the timer retaining pin ( 5F ), slide power cord out of it's retaining slot, unscrew Cam Shaft Bearing at rear of Cam Shaft, and then pull housing straight up.

 

Common Gears that Fail
1.  Tripper Arm Gear # 99F ( 1031756 )
2.  # 7 Black Gear # 420A43 ( 1031554 )
3.  Red Knob Gear # 106H ( 1001582 )
4.  #8 Black Gear # 420A44 ( 1030844 )

 

 Also the "Out Put Connector" # 21E ( 1031496 ) which attaches to and drives the Cam Shaft can crack or break.

On rare occasions the Camshaft # 21F-3 ( 1031950 ) will break at one end.

Also, rare is a cracked Skipper Wheel # 14F-6 ( 1031740 ).

Close examination of both sides of the Skipper Wheel is required to detect this failure.
And last, but not least, you can have a gear post break in the housing body it's self.

The "Empty Case" # 90F ( 420N66 ) is available, but it is simpler and prudent to replace the Complete Timer Assembly ( with the new 440iHV ) at this point. 

A complete replacement is also prudent if the unit is over 20 years old.

 

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP440IHV

Salty Water Taste in the Morning

Salty water in the morning is a common problem.

It occurs most commonly because the internal seals of the Valve leak highly salty water into the cold water lines during the regeneration cycle.

Typically ( if your Time of Day is set correctly to the current time of day ) this regeneration occurs between 2 a.m. to 4 a.m. once or twice a week.

If water is used in the home ( toilet flush, ice maker drawing water, etc. ) in the middle of the regeneration,

then the valve may allow the salt water being rinsed through the tank to leak into the cold water line.

And this super salty water is still there in the water line when you get up to make coffee, or brush your teeth in the morning.

This salty water can normally be "cleared" from the lines by running the water for 1 minute.

If it takes 5 or more minutes of running the water to clear up,

then you have a more serious problem ( clogged injector, or drain line, or bad connection at the distributor tube oring ).

This salty water problem is most common with Autotrol Valves ( Autotrol 155, 168, 255, or 268 models ), as they all use "flapper" valve discs that are held closed by water pressure.

So, when you flush a toilet in the house, the pressure drops enough to open one valve that should be closed during the "Brine Rinse" cycle,

and results in allowing some salty water to leak into the house lines.

Such leakage can occur in any valve that has "worn" internal seals.

Normally, if you just keep your time of day set correctly,

and you don't use water in the middle of the night, you won't wake up to salty water in the morning.

 

Trouble Shooting Fleck 9000 Valve

 Determining if the Fleck 9000 Valve is functioning involves several steps.
 Checking the Meter Operation is the first step.
 See:
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.fleck_5600_service_hints.checking_meter__setting
 
 
If the meter is counting your water usage, it should be regenerating and 
alternating tanks on a regular basis.
 If the meter is counting down to zero, but the valve is not regenerating, it 
could be one of several things.
 1 ) Micro-switch that "starts" the timer motor, or the timer motor does not 
start at all. Replacing the micro-switch or the motor would solve this.
 You can "see" the timer motor running in the back of the motor, when it has 
been "started" by the tripping of the micro-switch.
 This is what the program wheel on the front normally does ( when it counts 
down to zero ), or when you manually advance the control knob on the front.
 2 ) The Drive Motor may be bad, and not turning the main ( middle gear ) to 
move the Piston assemblies
 3 ) The one or more of the drive gears may be broken.
 4 ) The Valve could be "stuck" because the 2 main pistons, and seals need to 
be replaced. A stuck valve can also damage the middle drive gear.
 See:
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/349091PSKIT
 
Diagrams of the Fleck 9000 Valve and a list of common replacement parts can 
be found here,
 See:
 http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/1100.fleck9000parts/
 

Distributor Failure in Bottom of Resin Tank

A customer has had 2 distributor failures within a relatively short time.
This time he thinks he may have lost the majority of his resin.
Can you please shed some light on possible causes for distributors to fail.
I'd like to make sure his third one lasts longer.

* Here is what I know will effect distributor life.
1 ) Too much water pressure ( over 80 psi ).
2 ) Not backwashing ( regenerating ) often enough. System should regenerate
at least once every 7 days.
I've run into "metered" or "demand" systems with just one or two people and
it takes them 2 - 3 weeks to "require" a regeneration.
This is too long for the resins to be "packed" down and not "fluffed up".
3 ) Highly Chlorinated water can break the resins down into small fragments.
These fragments get stuck in the fine slots of the bottom distributor. This
results in there being less "holes" for the water to flow through, thus
causing the pressure through the remaining holes or slots to become very
high. Eventually the pressure of the water becomes too high and the plastic
gives way. Then the larger ( normal size ) resins can get into the pipes.
4 ) Too high of flow rates can be a problem. Residential size softeners (
tank diameters between 8 - 10 inches ) are made for flow rates of less than
8 gpm. And a normal home will peak around 5 - 6 gpm while filling the
laundry tub, or the bath tub. If the demand it greater than this, the system
needs to have a larger tank diameter, and a gravel under bedding should be
used.

RESET Autotrol 460 Timer Regenerating EVERY NIGHT

TOTAL 460 TIMER PROGRAM RESET
* 1. Record your Hardness and Capacity settings
* 2. Disconnect power
* 3. Jumper both pins 'A' and 'B'
* 4. Reconnect power for at least 10 seconds
* 5. Disconnect Power
* 6. Remove Jumpers and return them to 'time' and 'spare'
* 7. Reconnect power and restore your hardness and capacity settings
* Result is # days since regeneration and gallons used are '0'
* Average daily usage is hex 64 or decimal 100 gallons
The REASON you would RESET your timer is IF the unit is Regenerating EVERY NIGHT. This happens when the "program" is "averaging" your daily use based on the last 30 days, and you had an unusually HIGH USAGE day during that period. A Reset should solve this problem. If not, it may be time to replace the Timer Assembly.

What Brine ( Salt ) Setting Amount to Use?

Question: Does the adjustment for the salt dosage need to be adjusted based
on the hardness of the water?
I haven't changed it from where it was set but didn't know if I needed too.
****
The amount of salt needed is mostly based on the amount of resins being
recharged.
3/4 cu.ft. resin = 6 - 9 lbs.
1 cu.ft. resin = 8 - 10 lbs.
1.5 cu.ft resin = 12 - 15 lbs.

Typically,
9 lbs for 8 - 9 inch tanks,
and 12 lbs. of 10" tanks is average.
If there is a lot of iron ( over 2 ppm )
or if the water is really hard ( over 25 grains ),
then 2 - 4 lbs. extra should be used.

So, typically a residential system will use 6 - 12 lbs of salt per regeneration at least once a week. Very hard water, or water high in iron, may require regenerating every 2 or 3 days. The result is you will be using at least 30 - 40 lbs. of salt, and more common you will be using 60 - 100 lbs. of salt per month. Simply multiply the pounds of salt per regeneration times the number of regenerations in a month to calculate your monthly average usage.

P.S. If you run out of Salt, don't expect to have soft water after a few days. And it may take more than one regeneration to get the water feeling soft again once you've added salt.
I recommend keeping the salt level above the water level in your Brine Tank.
When you start seeing the water level ( normally between 6 - 12 inches ) then it's time to think about adding more salt ( 40 - 120 lbs. ).

Replacing Program Wheel on Fleck 5600 Valve - Label comment

Andrew,
I appreciate the information on replacing the program wheel, but I would
suggest that you call the labels thin decorative covers on the front control
knob and program wheel not labels. They do not label anything.
Kay

Replacing Program Wheel on Fleck 5600 Valve

1 ) Remove label on the front control knob.

2 ) Remove screw under label.

3 ) Pull front knob, and 24 hour wheel off and out of the way.

4 ) Remove label on old program wheel

5 ) Remove screw that holds it in place.

6 ) Remove program wheel, and install new one.

7 ) Re-assemble in reverse of disassembly.

 

Be sure to SET your White Dot same as the old one ( or where ever you have determined the correct gallon set should be ). See:
http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.fleck_5600_service_hints.checking_meter__setting

Brine Draw Failure in Sears, GE Smart Water, North Star Systems

Here is what causes suction failure in order of importance and frequency:

1 ) Gasket under Nozzle Venturi is worn, cracked, or "dried out".
2 ) Seal Kit is failing is some critical area, and not sealing.
3 ) Rotor Disc is no longer smooth and even, resulting in lack of seal
during critical valve functions.

So, the best recommendation is to replace all 3 parts, unless you feel very
confident of the condition of one or more of the parts and there fore don't need replacing ( yet ).

See:
http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/7129716

Customers Asked Questions and Answers

Brine Refill after Autotrol 155 or 255 repair

I just order and received an output connector for an Autotrol timer. Great service! 
I replaced the output connector last night and I am not sure that the brine actually was pulled out of the tank. I had to dispose of the contents of the brine tank because it had a lot of dark particles in it. I assume this happened when the part broke and valves where opened out of sync. 
So I replaced the salt and added about 4 gallons of water to the brine tank. I set the manual regeneration on and observed most of the cycle. When it got to the first brine cycle, I did not see any water being pulled from the brine tank. How do I know that brine is being pulled from the tank? 
At one point the ball in the clear cup was pulled to the bottom of the cup but I did not see any water flow on top of it. Late in the cycle I did see brine water in the clear cup, with the ball at the top of the cup, and it appeared to be filling the brine tank. 
How do I know the system is working correctly? 
Thanks, 
Greg L.

ANSWER:

Dear Greg, 
The system should work the next time it regenerates. It did not work when you first did it because there would have been air in the brine line tubing from your cleaning of the brine tank. When ever you disconnect the brine tubing or anything that causes the water to come out of the air check or tubing, you MUST put the valve in brine refill for about 15 seconds ( after you have everything reconnected ) to purge any air from the air check and the tubing. 
Your system "air checked" too soon because of the air in the tubing. But as I said, it should be okay NOW. You can see the water being pulled into the valve through the air check ( it takes 5 - 15 minutes to empty the brine tank ) and watch the water level drop in the brine tank, when the system is working correctly. 

Autotrol 155 or 255 - How to Tell Which You Have

How do I know if I have an Autotrol 155 ( 1550-TC ) or a model 255 Valve?

1. The Series 155 was replaced by the Series 255 late 1995 ( early 1996 ). An easy way to tell the difference is, the brine control ( salt dial ) is located on the front ( just beneath the timer housing ) on the 155 and it has been relocated to the right side ( looking from the front ) on the 255. Another noticeable difference is the Injector Cap, and Injector Screen/Cap are the size of a quarter on the newer 255. They are about the size of a dime on the older model 155. Note: The Brine Control and the Backwash Flow Control plugs are identical in size on both the 155 and the 255. The Backwash Flow Control is on the right hand side ( looking from the front ) on the 155 and has been moved to the left side on the 255. See > 255 Upper Valve Body Module

Autotrol Backwash Plug Number

How can I tell what number of backwash plug I need?

1 . Your existing Backwash Plug should have a small number on it. The number matches the diameter ( in inches ) of your resin tank. The most common is 9 ( for 9" x 48" tanks ). Thus the part number would be 25F-9.

Can I replace just the control valve head and reuse my resin tank, and salt tank?

1. Yes. See < How to Replace Your Old Valve > 

Will a Water Softener make the water safe to drink?

Will a Water Softener make my water safe to drink?

1. No. Your water must be safe to drink before you condition the water with a softener. If you are concerned about the safety of your drinking water, contact your local health department about getting a bacteria test, or full lab analysis on your water.

Common Water Problems

What types of water problems are common?

Hardness in your water.
Hardness is dissolved rock and minerals like calcium and magnesium. Water hardness causes scale build-up in your pipes, washing machine, automatic dishwasher and hot water heater. Using hard water in your home can cost you up to 26% more in electrical bills, and up to 80% more in soaps and cleansing products. Not to mention the costly replacement of plumbing, water using appliances (ice makers), dishes and clothing. Try to bath or shower in hard water and it can leave your skin feeling dry and itchy, and your hair feeling dry and like straw.>
Iron and Rust in your water.
Iron and rust in your water is picked up from underground sources as rain water fitters down through the ground on its way to our aquifers. Iron and rust makes your water taste and smell metallic. It will stain your toilets rusty red, etch your china, corrode your washing machine and plug your pipes. it can ruin your hot water heater in less than a year, and will stain rusty red. Try and take a bath or shower and your skin feels dirty even after you have used tons of soap.
Tannic Acid in your water.
Tannic adds stain and discolor your water and cause it to look yellow and even green in some cases. Tannic acids are caused by decaying organic matter on the grounds surface that is leached into the ground aquifers via rain and runoff. Tannic acid in your water can stain clothing, appliances, and build up in your plumbing system over a short period of time.
Sulfur (Hydrogen Sulfide) in your water.
Hydrogen sulfide is a gas that causes an obnoxious rotten egg odor in your water. Hydrogen sulfide is caused by rotting and decaying organic matter in the underground aquifer. Hydrogen sulfide will ruin your silverware, plug your appliances, and generally stink up your whole house.
Chlorine in your water.
If your water comes from a public water supply, it probably has chlorine in it. The water utilities add chlorine to the water for disinfection purposes. Chlorine in your water can cause a swimming pool odor, and can be less than desirable to bath in, cook with, or drink. It is well documented that when you add chlorine to water containing organic matter (tannic add) it can form carcinogenic chemicals like Trihalomethanes. Some experts now believe that even the inhalation of these vapors may not be healthy. Public water supplies from surface water plants ( lakes, reservoirs ) can also contain deadly Cryptosporidium < Click for more information. Chlorine can also destroy the rubber components in a water softener ( and your plumbing ).
Sodium Chloride (Salt) in your water.
Sodium chloride (salt) occurs naturally in our ground water and some water systems even add more. Salt is an essential element of life but most experts agree that we probably get more than enough in our diet and do not need more in our drinking and cooking water. if your on a salt free or salt restricted diet, you should not have any additional salt in your water.
Contamination in your water.
Contamination can be caused by many things. Some of the more common causes are improperly functioning septic tanks, leaking underground storage tanks, the use of fertilizers, the use of pesticides, animal waste, bacteria, virus, improperly disposed chemicals, organic and inorganic chemicals. The United States Environmental Protection Agency has established a list of both Primary and Secondary Drinking Water Standards and the WQA has a list of recognized treatment methods for meeting those standards.

Also see Common Water Problems

Reverse Osmosis How it works and common problems

What about Reverse Osmosis?

1. See How Reverse Osmosis Works

2. See Common R.O. Problems

How a water softener actually works

How does my water softener actually work?

1. See Water Softener Basics

Why does soft water feel slimy or slick in the shower?

1. Water that has been conditioned by a water softener allows soap to dissolve more completely than in hard water. It is common for first time users of soft water to have a slimy experience in the shower. This is due to using more soap than is necessary. The amount of soap needed to lather up is very small in soft water. This is one of the benefits of soft water ( less soap is needed in the bathing, laundry, and household cleaning ). Also, the pores of your skin will no longer be clogged by the undissolved soap. Once a person has adjusted their soap usage and is used to the smooth clean feeling achieved by bathing in soft water, they will have a negative "ruff" feeling, if they bath in hard water again.

Odor in water

I have a Water Softener, but I still have odor in my water.
Why is that? 

1. Water softeners do not remove most taste and odor problems ( they can remove the metallic taste of iron in water ).

2. Odors from hydrogen sulfide ( "rotten egg smell" ) in wells or "bleach" smell in chlorine treated water, require an activated carbon filter to be used in conjunction with the water softener. E-mail us for advice on your situation.

3. Sometimes odor in the hot water only, is caused by the self sacrificing rod installed in your hot water heater. Removal of this rod by your plumber could solve this problem.

Iron removal with water softener

Will a Water Softener remove the iron from my water?

1. Yes, if the iron is still in solution ( it has not been oxidized ). How much it can remove depends on the size resin tank of your softener. The more iron in the water, the larger the resin tank needs to be to remove all the iron. E-mail us for advice on your situation.

I have a working Water Softener, but I am still getting Iron Staining. Why is that?

There are several things that could cause you to still be getting staining. 
1) It is critical that your system never run empty of salt. 
2) It is important that the time of day be kept correct and that no one uses water between 2 a.m. - 3 a.m. when the system is regenerating. While the system is in regeneration, any water used would be unconditioned ( coming straight from the well ).
3) In high iron situations it is usually necessary to include a cleaner with the salt. Iron Out ( about 1/4 cup with each 80 lbs of Salt ) is commonly used. So is Tan-X ( Citric Acid, also 1/4 lbs per 80 lbs. ). A cup or two of Chlorine Bleach can be used, if your softener DOES NOT have "white resins" installed for Tannic Acid Color removal ( this is a special layer of resins sometimes added to the regular resin inside your resin tank ).
4) It could be your resin tank is too small to handle all the iron.
A. What size is the resin tank?
B. What is the level of Iron and Hardness of the water?

5) It could be you are not regenerating often enough, or using enough salt per regeneration.
A. How often does your softener regenerate?
B. How many people are using the water?
C. How much salt are you using per month?

6) On rare occasions the iron could be coming from just the hot water tank. I've seen a few old ones ( over 20 years old ) rusting out on the inside, thus putting iron back into the water. This is also true in older mobile homes ( again over 20 years old ) that used galvanized plumbing under the trailer.

Above are the common reasons a working water softener might still be allowing you to get staining. For additional help and recommendations, please send the answers to the above questions.

Salt usage in water softener

How much salt should my softener be using?

1. The average is 80 lbs. per month, BUT can vary depending upon the type of valve used and the quality of water being treated.

2. Metered valves will tend to use less salt than a non metered unit ( i.e. one set to regenerate every so many days with no regards for actual water used ).

3. An average softener with 1 cu. ft. of resins ( 32,000 grain, 9" x 48" tank ) should use about 8 lbs. per regeneration to achieve a economical 24,000 grain capacity ( hardness in grains divided into grains of capacity results in the gallons of water that can be treated before resins is exhausted ).

I see ads for "No Salt" needed water conditioners. 
How do they work without using salt?

1. Many dealers will advertise a no salt water conditioner. Any brand of water conditioner can be operated without using salt. This is done by using a salt substitute, potassium chloride. It generally cost twice as much as regular salt ( sodium chloride ), and can be difficult to find in some areas. Also, it is recommend to increase the salt setting on your control valve by about 10 % , when using a salt substitute.

2. Some companies offer catalytic filters and/or magnetic devices to soften your water that do not use salt, or anything else to regenerate their product. Buyer beware! If a technology had been developed that could replace a resin based water conditioner, then everyone would be selling it. I know I would. Those salt bags are heavy :)

Low Pressure through softener resin tank

When do the resins in the softener tank need to be changed?

1. The average water softener will not need it's resins replaced in it's life time ( 20 + years ).

2. Water softening resins need to be replaced if the unit has developed a high level of bacteria that does not respond to a cleaning with chlorine. Odors from units left in a not working mode with no water flowing through them for months at a time can develop this problem. Also, units in direct sunlight ( Florida ) can develop a layer of algae that requires complete resin replacement.

3. An excessive amount of sand in resin tank, due to a well starting to collapse, can necessitate resin replacement.
For more Info:
Check out the Resin Replacement Guide

Can the softener cause pressure loss, if so what do I look for, and what do I need to fix it? 

Yes, a softener can cause pressure loss in the home due to resistance from the resin bed caused by one of the following.
1. On well water, this is usually due to fine sand coming from the well.
 2. On softeners installed in the open sunlight ( mostly in Florida ), a layer of algae can grow and thick pieces of this growth clog the lower distributor tube screen when they start peeling off the inside of the resin tank.
 3. On chlorinated water supplies, sand can get into the tank from new construction or work on water lines in the area. All of these situations are rare. 
4. The most common cause of pressure loss occurs on chlorinated water. 
The resins can be damaged by high chlorine levels and turn to mush. This has the same effect as having fine sand at the bottom of the resin tank. 

The solution for all of the above problems is to dump the resin tank, clean and rebed with new resins. One cubic foot of softening resins is enough to properly fill the average residential softener. We can calculate the amount for you, if you provide exact resin tank dimensions. 

The second most common reason for pressure loss occurs with Autotrol control valves. 
The flapper valve discs swell up when used on chlorinated water. This causes the holes in the valve to become block, resulting in pressure loss at high flow rates.
 To see an example go here

The solution for this problem is to replace the valve discs set and the backwash flow control ball ( this part also swells up ). See Autotrol Parts Page

Softener does not remove the water from salt tank when it regenerates.
 What should you check?

1. Make sure all the fittings are tight. Also check the tubing going to the salt tank for small cracks. Any air leak will cause the valve to not draw the water out during the regeneration cycle.

2. Make sure the drain line is not clogged or restricted. This also can cause the valves normal suction to fail.

3. Check the injector and injector screen for debris or clogging.

4. On Autotrol valves, check that the two large main valves ( # 2 and # 3 ) are fully closed during the Brine Rinse ( Draw ) cycle. If they fail to close, it results in no suction. In fact it will result in the valve attempting to fill the salt tank during the time it should be removing the salt water. This could be caused by something near the metal "tab" blocking the "tab" from standing straight up ( closing the rubber valve underneath, inside ), OR you could have something inside preventing full closure. On older valves, this can be caused by chlorine damage to the rubber valve discs.
See the Rebuild guides on our Do It Yourself ( DIY ) Repairs page for more about the Valve Discs functions and how to replace them.
For Piston Assembly or Rotor Disc Valves, the problem can be caused by internal leaks due to wear or damaged Pistons, Rotor, and especially the Seals they contact with in the control valve. Replacement guides for common types will be found on our DIY repairs page.

5. If your Resin Tank is INSIDE the Brine Tank ( one piece "cabinet" design popular in Europe and the U.S.A. ), you may have a leak in the RESIN TANK.
Try unplugging the electric, so the Valve can NOT regenerate, and see if the water level continues to Rise from one day to the next.

6. Also check for leaking of the Brine Valve, which should be closed after the Brine Refill is completed.
You can disconnect the Brine tubing at the Control Valve end to make sure the Valve is not sending any water to the Brine Tank area ( this could occur if the # 1 Valve Disc ( on Autotrol Valves ) or Brine Piston Assembly ( on Fleck Valves )or Internal Seal leak ( on Rotor Disc type valves ) is being held open by debris of some kind or is very worn due to age.