Friday, February 11, 2011
The dual set of micro-switched ( one PN 10218 and one PN 16433 ) used on the Fleck 9000, 9100, and 9500 power head ( drive assembly ) can break when the Drive Motor ( old # 14927 or 18738, 120 volt 50/60 Hz ) turns in reverse. This can happen when first activated, or when there are power surges. Replacing the motor is REQUIRED to prevent this from happening in the future. The newer motors ( PN 61633-01 ) are suppose to prevent this, plus they are a little stronger ( although I never had a "strength" problem with the old motors ). So, if you find both your switched physically broken, then plan on replacing the drive motor at the same time as you replace the switches.
NOTE: The Drive Assembly ( Power Head ) for the 9000, 9100 and 9500 are now the same. Previously the 9500 had a different motor, and triple cam ( 17331 ), but now the assembly uses the same parts for all 3 models. Only the meter label for gallons used is different ( as various meter cover, with various ranges are used ).
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Sunday, January 2, 2011
Fleck 5600 uses Seals & Spacers kit 60125, and Softener Piston of 60102-10 ( note backwashing and iron filters may use 60102-10 instead ).
Also, directions and videos for many Fleck repairs under Do It Yourself Repairs.
Sunday, October 3, 2010
And many have / will become cracked and start leaking.
The By Pass ( 1010 ) is obsolete, and no longer available from any known source ( has not been for several years ).
Remove By Pass, and then you can screw the Adapter Nuts directly to the Threads on the Valve Body.
You will find / see these threads on the actual Valve Body, once you remove the defective By Pass.
You can continue to use your Technetic control head, only now without having the manufacturer's By Pass valve.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Friday, February 26, 2010
Best place to start is the un-programmed state:
Press and hold "set" ( square ) and "down" ( arrow ) buttons together for 5 seconds.
Then press and hold "set" ( square ) button for 5 seconds.
You will now see three flashing lines:
* First Step is Valve type, Your Logix Timer is installed on.
Use the arrows to choose ( select ) the letter "F" if used on Backwash Only Valve, otherwise ( if water softener ) you will be setting the Resin Capacity of your Water Softener.
Step Two: Resin capacity.
0.75 for 24K ( 3/4 cu.ft. )- most 8" diameter tanks
1.0 for 32K ( 1 cu.ft. ) - most 9" diameter tanks
1.25 for 40K ( 1.25 cu.ft.)
1.50 for 48K ( 1.50 cu.ft. ) - all 10" x 54" tanks
2.0 for 64K ( 2 cu.ft.) - most 12" diameter tanks
Press the set button to accept.
A. Time of day will be displayed.
1. Press the set button to make it flash.
2. Use arrows to set correct time ( note PM is indicated, and no indication is AM ).
3. Press the set button to accept.
B. Set day of week. Repeat steps 1,2, and 3 above.
C. Set time of regeneration ( typical 2:00 a.m. is used ). Repeat steps 1,2, and 3 above.
D. Set calendar override (for demand units) or days to regenerate (for timer units).
Repeat steps 1,2, and 3 above.
NOTE: On demand units will normally be set to “0”.
E. Set salt dosage. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 above.
NOTE: You have “L” for low, “S” for standard, and “H” for high.
Standard is the most efficient. NOTE: Newer Logix 742, and 762 should be 9 lbs. per cu.ft. as standard. You won't see L,S, or H.
F. Set estimated capacity. * Do Not Set -
NOTE: Estimated capacity is calculated by the unit. You do not want to change this value.
G. Set hardness level of your water ( Number of GRAINS Hardness - Adding 3 for each 1 ppm of Iron in water ). Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 above.
The unit will now display the time.
To put in Manual Regeneration
For preset time to regenerate: Press and release manual regeneration button.
For immediate regeneration: Press and hold manual regeneration button for 5 seconds.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
We ship you a replacement ( and pay postage to you )
Then you return the defective one in same box ( and you pay for return postage to us )
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
We have many expenses that add up.
This includes postage for "package" ( not envelope rate ) with delivery confirmation ( or UPS ground which is even more ), the bubbled envelope ( or box we use ), the thermal label, the payment processing fees ( Credit cards run about $ 1.00 minimum ) including shopping "cart" fees ( combined average 5% ), and last but not least is labor ( averaging $ 2.00 per order shipped ).
Even the smallest of items cost us at least $ 4.00 to process and ship.
Without the minimum, it would not be profitable to sell small parts or fill low cost single item orders.
We would need to have a minimum order size ( as most of our suppliers have ) such as $ 30, $ 50, or $ 100.
Or "inflate" the cost of smaller items ( as some of our competitors have done who offer "free shipping" - Note shipping is not really free for anyone ), which would not be fair to our customers who purchase larger quantities of these small items.
It is common in all parts of the world, and as a rule, the deeper the well, the more likely it will contain this gas.
Also, the level in the water will change during the coarse of the year ( the dry seasons tend to have higher levels as the water table drops ), and the more water pumped at one time ( things like lawn watering, or even back to back loads of laundry ) will cause the level of hydrogen sulfide to increase.
And the LEVEL ( measured in ppm ) is what determines the type and size of filtration required to remove the odor 100% ( as removing only 99% still results in a bad odor from the water ).
The two methods for removal are Oxidization ( aeration, chlorination, and various oxidizing Media in a tank ), and Absorption ( by activated carbon ), or a combination of the two.
The proper size equipment, levels of chemicals, and frequency of cleaning all depend on the amount of H2S in the water.
So, the first thing you need to do, before purchasing or adjusting equipment for removal is to get an accurate test of the level in the water.
This is best done onsite after running the source water for about 5 minutes. Professional water treatment dealers have the test kits to accurately measure the levels in your water source, and will often test for free ( of course they will want to sell you some equipment too ), or kits can be purchased online ( $ 50 - $ 100 is the common price range for a professional kit ).
Saturday, February 6, 2010
* Yes, that is correct 90% of the time. The Valve most commonly used on the WaterSoft model WSCB-32D is simply the common Autotrol 255 series valve and the timer used is the electronic 460i metered demand regeneration control. So, you will find any and all parts for your softener on our website (www.softenerparts.com ).
Just look under Autotrol Repair Parts and sub-category of Autotrol 255 for diagrams and parts. Also, be sure to look at our Do It Yourself Repair pages for service and program information for the 255 valve and the 460i timer used on your Water Soft WS ( water soft ) CB ( cabinet ) 32 ( 32,000 grain = 1 cu.ft. ) D ( demand ) softener.
We keep all these parts in stock and will ship your online order within 24 hours. * NOTE: A few of the later models ( same Water Soft model number ) used the Fleck 5600 SE ( simple electronics ) control valve.
We have the parts for this version also.
* Neither the Autotrol 255/460i or Fleck 5600SE Valves have their names on them, so place compare to the photos of these valves to determine which "brand" you have.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
First, NOTE: There are several causes of High Water in the Brine Tank, see:
But if you suspect an internal leak, or you have ruled out simple clogs or loose fitting, then you need to look a little further.
Internal leakage would be visible, in the form of Scratched Main Piston ( any Fleck model ), or damaged ( visibly noticeable ) or dried out ( due to age - over 10 years or more )rubber SEALS ( in the Seals & Spacers area of the Main Piston ), or Visibly cracked Injector Nozzle or Throat ( you must remove BOTH for proper inspection, as it would be either portion damaged ).
see: Inspecting Injector and Screen video
If the parts check out, then it's time to check out your Drain Flow. You need to check the flow rate ( at the very END of your drain hose ). It should be 2 gpm ( average 9" diameter tank used, 8" = 1.5 gpm , 10" = 2.4 gpm ) during BACKWASH cycle ( not the Brine Rinse cycle, as that is always 50% less than the BACKWASH flow rate ).
If it is less, then the problem will be either the Drain Hose is partially clogged ( deposits of hardness and iron can build up inside over the years ), OR something is partially blocking the small hole in your DLFC Button.
see this Video on the subject: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvZMkWihusI
The fact that you have water flowing into the salt tank during the suction cycle can only be one of the following:
1 ) Badly scratched ( you would be able SEE this ) Main Piston
2 ) Badly damaged Seal in the main piston area ( or one missing, should be 5 seals and 4 spacers for Fleck 5600 )
3 ) Damaged Injector SET ( either the Nozzle or the Throat behind it is cracked...did you check both? )
4 ) Back pressure from the DRAIN ( either something blocking the DLFC button, or the drain hose it's self )
Monday, January 25, 2010
Saturday, January 23, 2010
We Do Not sell Used, Rebuilt or Refurbished Products.
Orders shipped same business day before 3 p.m. EST by U.S. Mail, or UPS Ground ( heavy items ) for a FLAT Rate of $ 6.00 shipping and handling.
You can select Priority Mail ( under 10 lbs. ) or Express Mail ( under 10 lbs. & before 3 p.m. EST )
International Orders Welcomed ( weighing less than 10 lbs.).
We offer Shipping by First Class ( 1 - 4 weeks delivery time )
or Express Air Mail ( 5 - 10 days delivery depending on country ).
For tracking of package outside USA, you must select Express Mail option.
For a QUOTE simply place items in your "Shopping Cart", then fill out your ship to address.
NOTE: In many countries you will be required to pay an Import or VAT duty upon delivery. This is NOT included in the price you pay us. It is a tax imposed and collected by your country. To determine the amount you will owe, you will need to check with your local authorities, or you might try this website,
Duty Calculator Web Link
Methods of PAYMENT include Credit or Debit Card, PAYPAL, or Money Order
Also, we offer a place to enter Order Notes, after entering your name and address info.
For special requests or for items not listed please contact us by email
Our Mailing and Return Ship To Address is:
752 Commerce DR Unit 12
Venice, FL 34292-1744
We ship from primarily from Florida ( all small parts by U.S. Mail and some large items shipped by UPS ), but also from Ohio, and Arizona for UPS shipments of larger items over 10 lbs ( like Resins and Tanks ).
After Sale Customer Support
Phone number Emailed with your Order Receipt.
Non Customers should email their questions and we will assist with answers.
9 a.m. to 7 p.m. EST Monday - Saturday,
and Sunday 1 p.m. - 6 p.m.
NOTE: Orders should be placed Online.
Click Here to E-mail Questions, firstname.lastname@example.org
* If you have questions about a particular order, please include your order number.
752 Commerce DR Unit 12
Venice, FL, 34292-1744
U.S.A.Return Policy and Procedure
A Shipping Notification with Delivery Confirmation or UPS Tracking Number will be emailed the day your order is shipped. Non Customers should email their questions - free assistance by email. Be sure to check your SPAM or BULK mail folders, as replies from us can end up there ( until you add us to your address book ).NOTE: Orders should be placed Online. Click Here to E-mail Questions, email@example.com * If you have questions about a particular order, please include your order number.
THEN, the problem is an internal leak of the LOWER Piston & Seals ( or cage rotor on the 8500 ).
Replacing these ( Lower Main Piston and Seals & Spacers Kit - Cage Rotor on 8500 ) should solve the problem. While a rare problem to have, I just had another customer call about this exact problem.
Thus, the new article explaining this unique repair issue.
A Single Tank ( valve on one Resin Tank ) System will also fail to draw brine ( suction of the salt water ) if the valve has internal seal problem.
This is more common on the rotary type valves ( Ecowater's valve used in Sears Kenmore, GE Smartwater, North Star, and others ), but can occur on any older ( 10 plus years ) valve, due to worn out Piston & Seal ( Fleck models ) and Valve Disc ( Autotrol Models ). It's one of the half dozen reason listed in our # 1 FAQ article about high water in the brine tank ( because it is not sucking any out ).
Friday, January 22, 2010
So be sure to check this part if you are having problems with high water in the brine tank, and no soft water in the home since these extreme low temperatures.
The Air Check - New Style ( kit 1032416 or 1032417 = Air Check Kit, 1/4" Male ) used from about 1993 to present.
Can NOT be used in place of the old style ( see part # AP36F ).
Used only on late model Autotrol 155 and all 255 water softener valves.
The part number on the Air Check body is listed in some manuals as 100C142-001 and some as 1031939.
Previous part # 1032416 is listed as 1032417 in newer owners manuals for this Kit having 1/4" male thread output connection most commonly used, AND includes
( 1 ) clear air check body,
(1 )black floating ball,(2 ) long screws, o-ring, and tube of silicone.
NOTE: Be sure to use Teflon Tape or similar product ( like our Lock Leak ) on the male Threads of the Air Check ( where the female fitting must thread on to ). It is NECESSARY, or it will develop an "air" leak.
Friday, January 8, 2010
Typically, 9 lbs for 8 - 9 inch tanks, and 12 lbs. of 10" tanks is average. If there is a lot of iron ( over 2 ppm ) or if the water is really hard ( over 25 grains ), then 2 - 4 lbs. extra should be used.
So, an average residential system will use 6 - 12 lbs of salt per regeneration at least once a week. Very hard water, or water high in iron, may require regenerating every 2 or 3 days. The result is you will be using at least 30 - 40 lbs. of salt per month if hardness is not too high, or amount of water used low. Well water ( usually very hard and often containing iron ) will commonly require using 80 - 120 lbs. of salt per month. Simply multiply the pounds of salt per regeneration times the number of regenerations in a month to calculate your monthly average usage.P.S. If you run out of Salt, don't expect to have soft water after a few days. And it may take more than one regeneration to get the water feeling soft again once you've added salt. I recommend keeping the salt level above the water level in your Brine Tank. When you start seeing the water level ( normally between 6 - 12 inches ) then it's time to think about adding more salt ( 40 - 120 lbs. ). * Does it matter which type of salt is used? Pellets or solar salt crystals? Is one better than the other?
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
When do the resins in the softener tank need to be changed?
1. The average water softener will not need it's resins replaced in it's life time ( 20 + years ). However, chlorinated "city" water is known to break down the resins in as little as 5 years
2. Water softening resins need to be replaced if the unit has developed a high level of bacteria that does not respond to a cleaning with chlorine. Odors from units left in a not working mode with no water flowing through them for months at a time can develop this problem. Also, units in direct sunlight ( Florida ) can develop a layer of algae that requires complete resin replacement.
3. An excessive amount of sand in resin tank, due to a well starting to collapse, can necessitate resin replacement.
For more Info:
Check out the Resin Replacement Guide
Can the softener cause pressure loss, if so what do I look for, and what do I need to fix it?
Yes, a softener can cause pressure loss in the home due to resistance from the resin bed caused by one of the following.
1. On well water, this is usually due to fine sand coming from the well.
2. On softeners installed in the open sunlight ( mostly in Florida ), a layer of algae can grow and thick pieces of this growth clog the lower distributor tube screen when they start peeling off the inside of the resin tank.
3. On chlorinated water supplies, sand can get into the tank from new construction or work on water lines in the area. All of these situations are rare.
4. The most common cause of pressure loss occurs on chlorinated water.
The resins can be damaged by high chlorine levels and turn to mush. This has the same effect as having fine sand at the bottom of the resin tank.
The solution for all of the above problems is to dump the resin tank, clean and rebed with new resins. One cubic foot of high capacity ( 8 % cross link ) softening resins is enough to properly fill the average residential softener. We can calculate the amount for you, if you provide exact resin tank dimensions. And we have common tank sizes and capacity chart on our Resin Replacement Guide web page
The second most common reason for pressure loss occurs with Autotrol control valves.
The flapper valve discs swell up when used on chlorinated water. This causes the holes in the valve to become block, resulting in pressure loss at high flow rates. To see an example go here
The solution for this problem is to replace the valve discs set and the backwash flow control ball ( this part also swells up ). See Autotrol Parts Page
My softener does not remove the water from my salt tank
when it regenerates.
What should I check?
1. Make sure all the fittings are tight. Also check the tubing going to the salt tank for small cracks. Any air leak will cause the valve to not draw the water out during the regeneration cycle.
2. Make sure the drain line is not clogged or restricted. This also can cause the valves normal suction to fail.
3. Check the injector and injector screen for debris or clogging.
4. On Autotrol valves, check that the two large main valves ( # 2 and # 3 ) are fully closed during the Brine Rinse ( Draw ) cycle. If they fail to close, it results in no suction. In fact it will result in the valve attempting to fill the salt tank during the time it should be removing the salt water. This could be caused by something near the metal "tab" blocking the "tab" from standing straight up ( closing the rubber valve underneath, inside ),
OR you could have something inside preventing full closure. On older valves, this can be caused by chlorine damage to the rubber valve discs.
See the Rebuild guides on our Do It Yourself ( DIY ) Repairs page for more about the Valve Discs functions and how to replace them.
For Piston Assembly or Rotor Disc Valves, the problem can be caused by internal leaks due to wear or damaged Pistons, Rotor, and especially the Seals they contact with in the control valve. Replacement guides for common types will be found on our DIY repairs page.
5. If your Resin Tank is INSIDE the Brine Tank ( one piece "cabinet" design popular in Europe and the U.S.A. ), you may have a leak in the RESIN TANK.
Try unplugging the electric, so the Valve can NOT regenerate, and see if the water level continues to Rise from one day to the next.
6. Also check for leaking of the Brine Valve, which should be closed after the Brine Refill is completed.
You can disconnect the Brine tubing at the Control Valve end to make sure the Valve is not sending any water to the Brine Tank area ( this could occur if the # 1 Valve Disc ( on Autotrol Valves ) or Brine Piston Assembly ( on Fleck Valves ) or Internal Seal leak ( on Rotor Disc type valves ) is being held open by debris of some kind or is very worn due to age.
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
They come to us WET and 1/2 full of water EVERY TIME.
Monday, September 21, 2009
1. Turn off water, unplug control valve from electric outlet, disconnect control valve from water lines, and drain line.
2. Unscrew control valve ( may require two people ) from Tank.
3. Remove control valve and distributor tube ( the two normally can be separated at the control valve, as the pipe is only connected to the valve by an o-ring ).
********** EMPTYING the TANK
4. Now the fun part. Depending on your situation ( size and location of your tank ), you need to either dump the water and Media ( carbon, birm, calcite, and gravel ) out OR use suction to remove them ( shop vac, or other means ).
5. You can clean the inside of the tank with chlorine ( bleach ) if you feel it needs it. If you need to scrub the inside of the tank, use a clean toilet bowl brush with piece of pipe to extend the handle.
******** REFILL with NEW Media.
6. a. The next step is to replace the center distributor pipe into tank.
6. b. Then you pour a 4-6 inch layer of fine gravel ( 1/8" x 1/4" ) into the tank. Remember, you MUST have the distributor tube in the tank before you start filling with gravel. **** Be sure you cover the top opening of your distributor tube to prevent any gravel from getting inside. A plastic sandwich bag and rubber band works well.
Now you will slowly pour in the Media ( carbon, calcite, birm, etc ). The tank should be 50 - 65 % full when you are done.
7. Now do steps 3,2,1 in reverse ( put valve back on tank, screw on by hand, and reconnect pipes and power ).
8. Once reassembled you should backwash for 10 minutes using your control valve ( All control valves have some way to manually advance the valve to backwash ). You can allow the valve to run a complete regeneration cycle, but it is not needed. You are just "cleaning" or "rinsing" the "dust" off the new media.
9. With the control valve in the normal "service" position, run the water in the home for a few minutes to clear the lines of any "trapped" air or debris loosened during your repair.
10. - You're Done -
Also, SEE this GUIDE,
For Water Softener RESIN replacement
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Monday, June 15, 2009
Saturday, May 30, 2009
The Problem: Low Volume and Poor Pressure
Little to No air pressure will result in very little water being pushed out of the holding tank. You will have a full and heavy holding tank, but without the air pressure, you'll never get much water out of the tank. Too much air pressure ( say over 10 psi on a small tank ) will result in good water flow but will severely limit the amount of water that can be stored in the holding tank. So, it is recommended to put 8 psi of air in your under the sink reverse osmosis holding tank. If you get water coming out of the air valve, then it is time to purchase a new holding tank.
With all possible water drained from the holding tank, you want to get an air pressure reading of 8 PSI of air pressure. There is a "tire" valve on your holding tank somewhere ( usually the bottom ). You really should use a special low pressure air gauge. One that shows the air pressure in one pound increments starting with one pound. The average tire gauge starts at 5 or 10 lbs. psi.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Is there any advice you can shed some light on with?
*** If the water source is chlorinated, it could be the Resin in the tank are breaking down into fine fragments and clogging the bottom distributor.
Friday, May 1, 2009
I began by removing the cover of the front of the control module. A
thorough examination revealed the two micro switches I mentioned in
See picture 001 notice the red rectangle in the lower left. The micro switches are activated by cylinder shaped device by it’s rotation. See picture 002 Notice the little rusty screw(green arrow). That screw allows you to turn the cylinder with out turning the worm gear or the valve body. You see in picture 003 exactly how this occurs. If you depress the micro switch the motor will turn.
I simply used the plug to stop and start the motor until the valve body was in the closed position and then loosened the screw and rotated the cylinder until the cylinder until the recess was at the button on the micro switch. This has seemed to put everything where it needs to be for proper operation.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
What is your suggestion?
Monday, March 30, 2009
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Saturday, March 21, 2009
9" x 48" = 15 lbs. Gravel and 1.0 cu.ft. media
10" x 54" = 20 lbs. Gravel and 1.5 cu.ft. media
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
* Please email if you need additional product information before ordering.
Email will be answered daily ( Our staff of technicians answer the emails through out the day and late into the night ), so please send your questions.
******************** Emailed questions works well, because we can usually provide a WRITTEN answer quickly by referring to answers on the website. So expect to get one or more LINKS to the information you need. These also include video guides. 95% of all inquiries are similar, and we have the ANSWER already somewhere on the website. These thought out answers to common problems and questions will be supplied to you by email, and you will have plenty of time to absorb the information and then write back if you have specific questions or you require additional information.
Frequently Asked Questions
The Second reason email is prefered, is time factor ( much quicker - allowing us to respond to the needs of more people in any given day ). It is easier to answer a question once in written form as opposed to repeating the answer 3 times on the phone ( as has sometimes been the case ).
Again, we prefer you email us as oppose to phoning us, because the volume of inquiries otherwise becomes impossible to properly manage.
* All customers are instantly given our customer support phone number with their online receipt at the end of Check Out.
* So, I encourage you to email your questions or concerns. You'll generally be surprised how fast you get a reply.Click Here to E-mail Questions, firstname.lastname@example.org > * If you have questions about a particular order, please include your order number.