ECO-friendly alternative to SALT softeners?

 

Is there are ECO-friendly alternative to SALT softeners?

 

***

"ECO-friendly"?

Salt is "natural", and not unfriendly.

Some plants like salty water, but most do not.

Salt is necessary for life, but too much ( of anything ) is harmful.

 

To be more specific:

You can use Potassium Chloride ( a type of salt ) instead of Sodium Chloride ( common "salt" ) to regenerate the resins in the tank. This regeneration is required to "charge" the beads with a strong negative ion charge. With this negative charge, the resins are able to attract and remove positive ion molecules ( calcium, magnesium, iron, etc ) from the water.

See:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/4100/

 

The only other methods for removing these from your water are Distilling, or Reverse Osmosis. Both of these two processes require equipment that is very expensive and operate by producing "pure" water slowly, requiring large storage tanks, and re-pressurization pumps to feed your home with the water produced. Also, this water is so "pure", it is slightly corrosive, and commonly some "hardness" minerals need to be reintroduced to prevent corrosion of the metal plumbing in the home.

 

There are also advertised some "salt free" systems on the market. They do not remove the hardness minerals, nor iron from the water. The "catalytic" process does not give all the benefits of "ion exchange" softeners, and most people are not happy with the results provided by these system ( which have been around in one form or another for decades ). I have only talked to the dissatisfied consumers who had to get their money back, and have a "real" water softener installed.

 

Believe me, if I knew of a "better way" to soften water that did not use any type of Salt ( NaCl or KCl ), I'd be selling it and promoting it. I always check out "the latest" and "newest way" to treat water, and so far nothing has been developed to replace the ion exchange method of softening water.

 

And the "salt discharged" from the softeners is only a problem is you drain it out into your yard, where it can cause some plants to die. If this is a concern, then you can use the more expensive ( and 90% as efficient ) "salt substitute" Potassium Chloride ( KCl ), instead of Sodium Chloride. The Potassium acts as a "fertilizer", and is less harmful to plant life.

 

It should also be noted here, that most water naturally contains some level of salts.

To understand Salt better, SEE:

http://www.saltinstitute.org/15.html

 

***

 

How do you determine if you actually need a softener?

* If the water is hard, and most is, then you will benefit from having a water softener on your home. Most people will learn to "deal with" hardness up about 20 grains. Problems caused by hard water actually start at about 3 grains. Water harder than 10 grains has many noticeable "by products". Any time the water is used, a residue is left. This is Calcium and Magnesium that will form a solid that requires special cleaners ( mild acids ) to remove. For more information to help determine if you actually "need" a water softener, please see this link that explains how a softener works, the benefits, and the average hardness in various locations in the U.S.A.

* Iron in the water is another reason you could benefit from a water softener. The RESINS in the tank will remove about 3 ppm per cu.ft. of media used ( average size residential softener is 9" x 48" and uses One Cu. Ft. of Resins ). The use of some type of "iron" cleaning in with the salt helps keep the Resins clean. The size of the softener system ( size of tank, and amount of Resins inside ) is an important aspect to be considered before purchasing a water softener on high iron water. Feel free to ask us for advice.

See How A Water Softener Works:

http://www.softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/4100/

 

 

How do you put a softener out of service without damaging it?

* Simply "by pass" the water flow to the softener or shut water off.   
And unplug electric. If it the tank is in an area that could Freeze, move Tank to area that Can't Freeze.

Freezing can damage the Resins, Tank, and / or Valve.
* When you are ready to use the softener again, besides turning the water back on, restoring electric to control, and setting time of day,  you will want to manually start a regeneration of the system to "freshen" up the water in the Tank, before using the water in the home.

 

No Salt Systems for Water Softening

I see ads for "No Salt" needed water conditioners. 
How do they work without using salt?

1. Many dealers will advertise a no salt water conditioner. Any brand of water conditioner can be operated without using salt. This is done by using a salt substitute, potassium chloride. It generally cost twice as much as regular salt ( sodium chloride ), and can be difficult to find in some areas. Also, it is recommend to increase the salt setting on your control valve by about 10 % , when using a salt substitute. This is because it is not as efficient in provided the needed negative ions to the resin beads as regular salt.

2. Some companies offer catalytic filters and/or magnetic devices to soften your water that do not use salt, or anything else to regenerate their product. Buyer beware! If a technology had been developed that could replace a resin based water conditioner, then everyone would be selling it. I know I would. Those salt bags are heavy :)

For more detials, I'd recommend this webpage written by a retired chemist. http://www.chem1.com/CQ/

Salt is Not Going Down

My Valve appears to be operating but the Salt is Not Going Down.
What could cause this problem?

The salt not going down could be due to many different reasons.

1 ) Valve is not regenerating due to a problem with Timer Motor or a bad gear in the timer assembly ( common in Autotrol Timer Assemblies ).
2 ) Salt may be Bridged ( become solid ) above water that is at the bottom of the salt tank.
3 ) If you have been using Pellet salt for many years you could have a lot of undissolvable residue at the bottom. This residue will not dissolve and also can block water flow in and out of the salt tank.
4 ) The Valve could be failing to draw the brine solution out and if you have a float shut off in the brine tank, it would be prevent the salt tank from overflowing ( which it would do if the float shut off was not there ).
5 ) The brine refill control could be clogged, prevent water to refill the salt tank.

How to use Autotrol By Pass - Old Style

Question:

How do you turn the bypass valve on / off ?

What does 61F do?

 

******************

 

The old style Autotrol By Pass Valves use a "push in" method of redirecting the flow.

If you push the knob ( 46F )  IN on the RIGHT ( standing in front of the system ), this will place the valve in "by pass" and cause the knob ( another 46F ) on the left to come out about an inch.

To "restore" flow through the Control Valve and resin tank, you would Push the knob on the Left back IN.

PUSHING the knob can require extreme force. A hard "push" with your fist, or a "tap" with a hammer, may be required.

 

Sometimes engaging the By Pass fails to cut off the valve flow to the Control Valve 100%, because the internal oring in the center of the by pass shaft is not sealing 100%. This common failure is the main reason Autotrol now uses a different design ( double shut off - redirecting valves ) for the "new" style By Pass for their Control Valves.

 

The part labeled 61F does not "do anything". And I've never seen this used for anything.

Rainsoft Amazon Gold Series Seals ( Gaskets ) and Spacers are Fleck Parts

The valve body of the Rainsoft Amazon Gold Series is basically the Fleck 5000 or  newer Pro Flow version of the Model 5000 valve.

Rainsoft has added their own proprietary electronic timer assembly, but the Valve Body Parts, and By Pass Valve are common to other Fleck Valves.

 

The Seals and Spacers ( KIT part number 60120 has a special "end spacer" not found in kit 60125 ).
The Seals are pn 13242 ( quantity 5 ) and the Spacers are pn 14241 ( quantity 4 ) , and the end spacer is pn 18264 ( and this part can normally be re-used, that is why the 60125 Kit will also work as a replacement ).

Here is a link to the 60120 Seals and Spacers Kit:
Seals Kit # 60120

 

Tank Diameter - How to Measure and Why It Matters

Do you just measure the outer resin tank diameter?

* Yes, you measure the fiberglass tank that contains the resins ( or other
media ).
Do not be "fooled" by plastic decorative "jackets" sometimes placed over the
fiberglass ( or polyglass ) tank.
The diameter is the measurement ACROSS the WIDTH of the tank, or the
circumference ( around ) the tank divided by pi ( 3.14 ).
And you should "round down" to the whole number ( i.e. 8.34 would be 8
inches ).

Why do you need this measurement?

* The proper Backwash Flow Rate to be used is determined by the diameter of
the tank.
The larger the diameter, the higher the flow rate required to properly
expand and clean the resin bed.
If your current valve body is an "Autotrol" type, it has a "Backwash" Plug
( PN 25F ) that has a small
number ( and the words "Backwash" ) on it. This number normally corresponds
to
the diameter of the resin tank.
See:
Autotrol Backwash Plug Sizes

* Fleck valves use DLFC ( drain line flow control ) buttons. The gpm is
sometimes marked near the drain fitting outlet.
See:
Common 2 gpm DLFC Button PN 12087

* Also, the injector size used in the Valve is determined by the diameter
of the resin
tank.
Autotrol valve examples,
See:
Common Autotrol Injector Sizes / Colors PN AP28F

And for Fleck Valves,
See:
Common Fleck Injector Sizes / Colors
All these are DIRECTLY based in the Tank Diameter, because the wider the tank, the higher the flow rates need to be for proper washing and rinsing of the media in the tank.

Clearing Memory in Sears, GE, and NorthStar Circuit Board

When you have an unusually high water usage day, your softener's electronic
control will "remember" this for a long time.
In the case of the controllers commonly used in Sears, GE, and NorthStar
this could be 3 or 4 months before things would return to normal.
The problem caused by this "memory" is that the unit will be regenerating
more often than normal, because it is remembering the high usage, and
averages this into it's calculations of capacity remaining.
It "errs" on the side of caution, and ends up regenerating sooner than it
"really" needs to.

To reset this memory:
1 ) Hold "Select" button for 3 seconds, until 000 appears, then release.
2 ) Hold UP Arrow to "see" days the system has been plugged into the
electric, and release.
3 ) Hold DOWN Arrow to "see" number of times the system has regenerated
since it was first installed, and release.
NOW
4 ) Hold "Select" button for another 3 seconds to see the SR, or Model
code.
Write this number down.
5 ) Having released the "Select" button, and recording your actual model
code, then you can use the UP or DOWN Arrow to change your Model Code.
6 ) Press "Select" one time and you will see the time of day flashing 12:00
a.m.
7 ) Use the Arrow keys to move the time a few minutes, thus causing it to
"set" this new time.
FINALLY
8 ) Go back and do 1 - 7 again, only this time, at step 5, reset the
original model code, and at step 7, put in the correct time of day.
* NOTE: The number of regenerations since unit installed will be reset to
Zero. If you want to have this information for future referrence, be sure
to
write this down.

How Long Until Water Feels Soft Again After Repair

It can take several regenerations, and the "using up" of the Hot Water to get the "feel" back.

It is recommended that you manually have the system run extra regenerations and to drain the hot water ( either at the hot water tank, or at least running the water in the bath tub until it turns cold ).

 

So, unless you regenerate the system twice in a row, and completely drain the hot water tank, it may take several days or even weeks to get back to Zero hardness in the Hot Water.

The Cold water should be soft right away.

 

And if you don't feel like it is softening at all, then TEST the water hardness ( test strips available from Softenerparts.com, and locally - Sears, Home Depot, Lowes ).

A test before and after the softener will help determine if the system is working.

 

 

Does Softenerparts.com ship to Canada

Yes.
We ship to Canada all the time.

Small parts under 16 ounces can be shipped by Air Mail in large bubbled envelope ( and pass through Canadian Customs with little or no delay ).

Parts usually arrive in about one week.

Items weighing up to 4 lbs. and under $ 400.00 can also be shipped using standard Air Mail ( cost based on weight items and calculated in your CART once you input your ADDRESS ), BUT large items that require a box, can take 2 - 6 weeks to arrive ( as some are "selected" by Canadian Customs, and that can slow delivery time ), and is therefore not recommended for items over 1 lb. if you can't wait that long.



Items up to 10 lbs. can be shipped by Express Mail ( Costs start around $ 32.00 and are based on weight, with calculation occurring in your CART once you've entered your Ship to: ADDRESS ) which is normally 5 - 7 business days delivery and includes Tracking Number.

We can ship items up to 4 lbs. by regular Air Mail for less, but we have found any item requiring a box to ship can get held up in "Customs" for 2 - 6 weeks, and there is no tracking, therefore we do not recommend using standard First Class Air Mail for any items over 16 ounces.



Please try adding your items to the Shopping Cart, enter your address for a "shipping quote".



Orders can and should be placed online. Shipping will be quoted based in the weight of the items.


Express Mail shipping upgrade is available during check out. The shopping cart will quote any order weighing less then 10 lbs. and offer a minimum quote for heavier orders.
We will contact you if any additional shipping charges are required for heavier items ( over 10 lbs. ).

Also see, Shipping Questions: When, How Long, From Where, What Methods.

ANY TAX or DUTY will be paid by YOU when order is delivered, we do NOT collect this in advance.



3.2.1 Customs Duties and Taxes


Canadian Customs Requirements



Customs Duties, Taxes and Exemptions


3.2.1




Any item mailed into Canada is potentially subject to duty and/or taxes with few exceptions.
Visit the CBSA web site at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/security-securite/cbcr-dmte/menu-eng.html for more information on mail imports. The CBSA collects provincial sales taxes (PST) on most taxable imports valued at over $20CDN entering Quebec, Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan and British Columbia. The CBSA also collects Harmonized Sales Taxes (HST) on most taxable imports entering Newfoundland and Labrador, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.

We do not use UPS for shipments to Canada, as the "broker" fees can be more than the cost of the item.
Also, UPS requires higher costs and paper work to ship International...
So we just don't use them.
Only the Postal Service is used to ship to Canada.

Bruner Valve - Old and New Styles

Older Bruner softeners used an Autrol model 160 valve in late 1970s and early 80s.

This model is like the 155 valve in size, but does not use an "air check" on the valve. In this regard, it is like the 168 model.

The thing that made this valve "unique" is the side mount By Pass connection.

 

The timer assembly is the 440 version, and this was and is ( newer 440i )  used on most Autotrol valves to this day.

The time of day is set by the small pointer. The large arm will "trip" at 2:30 a.m to push the "skipper" wheel that has days of regeneration.

For each pin pushed IN the unit will regenerate that night at 2:30 - 4:00 a.m.

 

All of the parts for the 440 timer, and most of the parts for the Valve are still available.

Most of the trouble shooting and service hints for the Autotrol 155 would apply to this valve.

See:

http://www.softenerparts.com/Autotrol_155_1550_TC_Rebuilding_Guide_s/48.htm

 

 

In the 1980s and early 90s Bruner used their own proprietary design valve.

Newer, "true Bruner" valve, is no longer made and parts are no longer available.

 

 

 

It is possible to replace the entire valve, and re-use the tanks.

See:

How to Replace Old Valve Guide

 

Too much Sodium in the Water?

Is the sodium added to softened water a problem for people to drink?

Only if a person is on an extremely restrictive diet, he should drink neither hard nor softened water. Under these conditions, he should use reverse osmosis, or distilled water for drinking and cooking. For a normal person, the small amount of  sodium in water is not a problem or concern. Especially when compared to other foods.

Even hard water may contain appreciable amounts of sodium. To determine the amount a complete analysis of the water is necessary.

It is important to note that about 2/3 of the daily water intake of the individual is through food and only about 1/3 water itself.

SODIUM CONTENT OF COMMON FOODS IN A TYPICAL DAILY DIET
The Food	Amount	Milligrams of Sodium
Milk	2 cups	226
Eggs	1 of medium size	56
Steak	6 ounces	110
Bread	2 slices	278
Cereal	1/2 cup	21
Potatoes	1 small	30
Green salad with 1 oz French Dressing	1 serving	30
Vegetables (other)	3 servings	120
Fruit	2 servings	50
Fruit (citrus)	1 serving	6
Water after typical water softener	8 ounces	25 average

Autotrol 440 Timer Rebuilding

An obvious problem that can occur is for the timer motor to fail.

The motors turn at 1 rpm, so it is quite easy to tell if it is turning.

A more common problem is for one or more of the drive gears to strip.

Removing the Tripper Arm screw, the Skipper Wheel screw and the three cover plate screws will gain you complete access to all components for careful examination.

It is easier to work on your timer housing if you remove it from the valve body.

Pull out the timer retaining pin ( 5F ), slide power cord out of it's retaining slot, unscrew Cam Shaft Bearing at rear of Cam Shaft, and then pull housing straight up.

Common Gears that Fail 1. Tripper Arm Gear # 99F ( 1031756 ) * Most common gear to break at the 2 - 3 am. position. 2. # 7 Black Gear # 420A43 ( 1031554 ) * Gear that drives the Tripper Arm Gear, and often strips out at the same times as the Tripper Arm Gear breaks. 3. Red Knob Gear # 106H ( 1001582 ) * now "Black" closely examine the "over hang" teeth of the OUT PUT GEAR, as they sometimes snap off.4. #8 Black Gear # 420A44 ( 1030844 ) * Drives the Output Gear, and if stripped, you can easily see this.

Also the "Out Put Connector" # 21E ( 1031496 ) which attaches to and drives the Cam Shaft can crack or break. Check this part at the rear of the timer assembly.

On rare occasions the Camshaft # 21F-3 ( 1031950 ) will break at one end.

Also, rare is a cracked Skipper Wheel # 14F-6 ( 1031740 ).

Close examination of both sides of the Skipper Wheel is required to detect this failure. And last, but not least, you can have a gear post break in the housing body it's self. But only the backplates for the 440i version is available and not the "box" used with the older 440 version. It is simpler and prudent to replace the Complete Timer Assembly ( with the new 440iHV ) at this point.

A complete replacement is also prudent if the unit is over 20 years old.

Replacement Options

And now available for Models 255, 263 and 268 is the Logix 740 upgrade timer kit ( does not work with older 155, 163, or 168 valves.. sorry ).

see for 255 valves: http://www.softenerparts.com/740_Logix_255_Upgrade_Electronic_replacing_440i_p/ap3021998.htm

and for Performa 263 or 268,

http://www.softenerparts.com/740_Upgrade_Kit_Performa_263_268_Logix_Electronic_p/ap3021045.htm

Salty Water Taste in the Morning

Salty water in the morning is a common problem.

It occurs most commonly because the internal seals of the Valve leak highly salty water into the cold water lines during the regeneration cycle.

Typically ( if your Time of Day is set correctly to the current time of day ) this regeneration occurs between 2 a.m. to 4 a.m. once or twice a week.

If water is used in the home ( toilet flush, ice maker drawing water, etc. ) in the middle of the regeneration,

then the valve may allow the salt water being rinsed through the tank to leak into the cold water line.

And this super salty water is still there in the water line when you get up to make coffee, or brush your teeth in the morning.

This salty water can normally be "cleared" from the lines by running the water for 1 minute.

If it takes 5 or more minutes of running the water to clear up,

then you have a more serious problem ( clogged injector, or drain line, or bad connection at the distributor tube oring ).

This salty water problem is most common with Autotrol Valves ( Autotrol 155, 168, 255, or 268 models ), as they all use "flapper" valve discs that are held closed by water pressure.

So, when you flush a toilet in the house, the pressure drops enough to open one valve that should be closed during the "Brine Rinse" cycle,

and results in allowing some salty water to leak into the house lines.

Such leakage can occur in any valve that has "worn" internal seals.

Normally, if you just keep your time of day set correctly,

and you don't use water in the middle of the night, you won't wake up to salty water in the morning.

 

Trouble Shooting Fleck 9000 Valve

 Determining if the Fleck 9000 Valve is functioning involves several steps.
 Checking the Meter Operation is the first step.
 See:
 Meter Cover ( 14038 ) and how to Check Directions plus Video
 
 
If the meter is counting your water usage, it should be regenerating and 
alternating tanks on a regular basis.
 If the meter is counting down to zero, but the valve is not regenerating, it 
could be one of several things.
 1 ) Micro-switch that "starts" the timer motor, or the timer motor does not 
start at all. Replacing the micro-switch or the motor would solve this.
 You can "see" the timer motor running in the back of the motor, when it has 
been "started" by the tripping of the micro-switch.
 This is what the program wheel on the front normally does ( when it counts 
down to zero ), or when you manually advance the control knob on the front.
 2 ) The Drive Motor may be bad, and not turning the main ( middle gear ) to 
move the Piston assemblies
 3 ) The one or more of the drive gears may be broken.
 4 ) The Valve could be "stuck" because the 2 main pistons, and seals need to 
be replaced. A stuck valve can also damage the middle drive gear.
 See:
 9000 or 9100 Rebuild Kit Pistons and Seals
 
Diagrams of the Fleck 9000 Valve and a list of common replacement parts can 
be found here,
 See:
 9000,9100 Parts and Diagrams
 

Distributor Failure in Bottom of Resin Tank

A customer has had 2 distributor failures within a relatively short time.
This time he thinks he may have lost the majority of his resin.
Can you please shed some light on possible causes for distributors to fail.
I'd like to make sure his third one lasts longer.

* Here is what I know will effect distributor life.
1 ) Too much water pressure ( over 80 psi ).
2 ) Not backwashing ( regenerating ) often enough. System should regenerate
at least once every 7 days.
I've run into "metered" or "demand" systems with just one or two people and
it takes them 2 - 3 weeks to "require" a regeneration.
This is too long for the resins to be "packed" down and not "fluffed up".
3 ) Highly Chlorinated water can break the resins down into small fragments.
These fragments get stuck in the fine slots of the bottom distributor. This
results in there being less "holes" for the water to flow through, thus
causing the pressure through the remaining holes or slots to become very
high. Eventually the pressure of the water becomes too high and the plastic
gives way. Then the larger ( normal size ) resins can get into the pipes.
4 ) Too high of flow rates can be a problem. Residential size softeners (
tank diameters between 8 - 10 inches ) are made for flow rates of less than
8 gpm. And a normal home will peak around 5 - 6 gpm while filling the
laundry tub, or the bath tub. If the demand it greater than this, the system
needs to have a larger tank diameter, and a gravel under bedding should be
used.

RESET Autotrol 460 Timer Regenerating EVERY NIGHT

TOTAL 460 TIMER PROGRAM RESET
* 1. Record your Hardness and Capacity settings
* 2. Disconnect power
* 3. Jumper both pins 'A' and 'B'
* 4. Reconnect power for at least 10 seconds
* 5. Disconnect Power
* 6. Remove Jumpers and return them to 'time' and 'spare'
* 7. Reconnect power and restore your hardness and capacity settings
* Result is # days since regeneration and gallons used are '0'
* Average daily usage is hex 64 or decimal 100 gallons
The REASON you would RESET your timer is IF the unit is Regenerating EVERY NIGHT. This happens when the "program" is "averaging" your daily use based on the last 30 days, and you had an unusually HIGH USAGE day during that period. A Reset should solve this problem. If not, it may be time to replace the Timer Assembly.

What Brine ( Salt ) Setting Amount to Use?

Question: Does the adjustment for the salt dosage need to be adjusted based
on the hardness of the water?
I haven't changed it from where it was set but didn't know if I needed too.
****
The amount of salt needed is mostly based on the amount of resins being
recharged.
3/4 cu.ft. resin = 6 - 9 lbs.
1 cu.ft. resin = 8 - 10 lbs.
1.5 cu.ft resin = 12 - 15 lbs.

Typically,
9 lbs for 8 - 9 inch tanks,
and 12 lbs. of 10" tanks is average.
If there is a lot of iron ( over 2 ppm )
or if the water is really hard ( over 25 grains ),
then 2 - 4 lbs. extra should be used.

So, typically a residential system will use 6 - 12 lbs of salt per regeneration at least once a week. Very hard water, or water high in iron, may require regenerating every 2 or 3 days. The result is you will be using at least 30 - 40 lbs. of salt, and more common you will be using 60 - 100 lbs. of salt per month. Simply multiply the pounds of salt per regeneration times the number of regenerations in a month to calculate your monthly average usage.

P.S. If you run out of Salt, don't expect to have soft water after a few days. And it may take more than one regeneration to get the water feeling soft again once you've added salt.
I recommend keeping the salt level above the water level in your Brine Tank.
When you start seeing the water level ( normally between 6 - 12 inches ) then it's time to think about adding more salt ( 40 - 120 lbs. ).

Replacing Program Wheel on Fleck 5600 Valve - Label comment

Andrew,
I appreciate the information on replacing the program wheel, but I would
suggest that you call the labels thin decorative covers on the front control
knob and program wheel not labels. They do not label anything.
Kay

Replacing Program Wheel on Fleck 5600 Valve

1 ) Remove label on the front control knob.

2 ) Remove screw under label.

3 ) Pull front knob, and 24 hour wheel off and out of the way.

4 ) Remove label on old program wheel

5 ) Remove screw that holds it in place.

6 ) Remove program wheel, and install new one.

7 ) Re-assemble in reverse of disassembly.

 

Be sure to SET your White Dot same as the old one ( or where ever you have determined the correct gallon set should be ). See:
http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.fleck_5600_service_hints.checking_meter__setting

Brine Draw Failure in Sears, GE Smart Water, North Star Systems

Here is what causes suction failure in order of importance and frequency:

1 ) Gasket under Nozzle Venturi is worn, cracked, or "dried out".
2 ) Seal Kit is failing at some critical area, and not sealing.
3 ) Rotor Disc is no longer smooth and even, resulting in lack of seal
during critical valve functions.

So, the best recommendation is to replace all 3 parts, unless you feel very
confident of the condition of one or more of the parts and there fore don't need replacing ( yet ).

See:
http://www.softenerparts.com/Seal_Kit_7129716_7092163_7134224_WS35X10005_p/7129716.htm

*** Suction FAILURE Can Be Related To:
1 ) Gasket under Venturi ( sometimes the Venturi too ).
2 ) Seal Kit orings ( any leakage internally effects suction )
3 ) Rotor Disc ( any scratches or uneven wear effects suction )
4 ) Drain flow ( blockage of Drain Flow Plug or Drain hose effects suction... or Drain hose running UP HILL )
5 ) Bottom Flow Plug in the Nozzle Venturi Assembly, if closing up ( should be 0.3" I.D. hole )
6 ) Poor seal of the Nozzle Venturi Assembly to the Valve body ( oring pair 7170319 ).

**** Anything else would be a clogged screen ( two in Nozzle Venturi and one at bottom of Brine Float Assembly )

*** And last but not least, if you have being using Pellet Salt for many years, it could be clogging the bottom of your brine well, and limiting flow at the bottom of the salt tank.
Pellet salt leaves a hard undissolvable mush of 1 - 3 inches per year of normal use. And eventually will clog the flow through the brine well at the bottom of the salt tank area.

Customers Asked Questions and Answers

Brine Refill after Autotrol 155 or 255 repair

I just order and received an output connector for an Autotrol timer. Great service! 
I replaced the output connector last night and I am not sure that the brine actually was pulled out of the tank. I had to dispose of the contents of the brine tank because it had a lot of dark particles in it. I assume this happened when the part broke and valves where opened out of sync. 
So I replaced the salt and added about 4 gallons of water to the brine tank. I set the manual regeneration on and observed most of the cycle. When it got to the first brine cycle, I did not see any water being pulled from the brine tank. How do I know that brine is being pulled from the tank? 
At one point the ball in the clear cup was pulled to the bottom of the cup but I did not see any water flow on top of it. Late in the cycle I did see brine water in the clear cup, with the ball at the top of the cup, and it appeared to be filling the brine tank. 
How do I know the system is working correctly? 
Thanks, 
Greg L.

ANSWER:

Dear Greg, 
The system should work the next time it regenerates. It did not work when you first did it because there would have been air in the brine line tubing from your cleaning of the brine tank. When ever you disconnect the brine tubing or anything that causes the water to come out of the air check or tubing, you MUST put the valve in brine refill for about 15 seconds ( after you have everything reconnected ) to purge any air from the air check and the tubing. 
Your system "air checked" too soon because of the air in the tubing. But as I said, it should be okay NOW. You can see the water being pulled into the valve through the air check ( it takes 5 - 15 minutes to empty the brine tank ) and watch the water level drop in the brine tank, when the system is working correctly. 

Autotrol 155 or 255 - How to Tell Which You Have

Above is the 155 Valve Body Diagram
Below is the newer 255 Valve Body Diagram
Click on to ENLARGE VIEW

How do I know if I have an Autotrol 155 ( 1550-TC ) or a model 255 Valve?

1. The Series 155 was replaced by the Series 255 late 1995 ( early 1996 ). An easy way to tell the difference is, the brine control ( salt dial ) is located on the front ( just beneath the timer housing ) on the 155 and it has been relocated to the right side ( looking from the front ) on the 255.

Another noticeable difference is the Injector Cap, and Injector Screen/Cap are the size of a quarter on the newer 255. They are about the size of a dime on the older model 155.

Note: The Brine Control and the Backwash Flow Control plugs are identical in size on both the 155 and the 255. However, another difference is the location of the Backwash Flow Control Plug ( 25F )is on the right hand side ( looking from the front ) on the 155 and has been moved to the left side on the 255.

Autotrol Backwash Plug Number

How can I tell what number of backwash plug I need?

1 . Your existing Backwash Plug should have a small number on it. The number matches the diameter ( in inches ) of your resin tank. The most common is 9 ( for 9" x 48" tanks ). Thus the part number would be 25F-9.

Can I replace just the control valve head and reuse my resin tank, and salt tank?

1. Yes. See < How to Replace Your Old Valve > 

Will a Water Softener make the water safe to drink?

Will a Water Softener make my water safe to drink?

1. No. Your water must be safe to drink before you condition the water with a softener. If you are concerned about the safety of your drinking water, contact your local health department about getting a bacteria test, or full lab analysis on your water.

Common Water Problems

What types of water problems are common?

Hardness in your water.
Hardness is dissolved rock and minerals like calcium and magnesium. Water hardness causes scale build-up in your pipes, washing machine, automatic dishwasher and hot water heater. Using hard water in your home can cost you up to 26% more in electrical bills, and up to 80% more in soaps and cleansing products. Not to mention the costly replacement of plumbing, water using appliances (ice makers), dishes and clothing. Try to bath or shower in hard water and it can leave your skin feeling dry and itchy, and your hair feeling dry and like straw.>
Iron and Rust in your water.
Iron and rust in your water is picked up from underground sources as rain water fitters down through the ground on its way to our aquifers. Iron and rust makes your water taste and smell metallic. It will stain your toilets rusty red, etch your china, corrode your washing machine and plug your pipes. it can ruin your hot water heater in less than a year, and will stain rusty red. Try and take a bath or shower and your skin feels dirty even after you have used tons of soap.
Tannic Acid in your water.
Tannic adds stain and discolor your water and cause it to look yellow and even green in some cases. Tannic acids are caused by decaying organic matter on the grounds surface that is leached into the ground aquifers via rain and runoff. Tannic acid in your water can stain clothing, appliances, and build up in your plumbing system over a short period of time.
Sulfur (Hydrogen Sulfide) in your water.
Hydrogen sulfide is a gas that causes an obnoxious rotten egg odor in your water. Hydrogen sulfide is caused by rotting and decaying organic matter in the underground aquifer. Hydrogen sulfide will ruin your silverware, plug your appliances, and generally stink up your whole house.
Chlorine in your water.
If your water comes from a public water supply, it probably has chlorine in it. The water utilities add chlorine to the water for disinfection purposes. Chlorine in your water can cause a swimming pool odor, and can be less than desirable to bath in, cook with, or drink. It is well documented that when you add chlorine to water containing organic matter (tannic add) it can form carcinogenic chemicals like Trihalomethanes. Some experts now believe that even the inhalation of these vapors may not be healthy. Public water supplies from surface water plants ( lakes, reservoirs ) can also contain deadly Cryptosporidium < Click for more information. Chlorine can also destroy the rubber components in a water softener ( and your plumbing ). Sodium Chloride (Salt) in your water.
Sodium chloride (salt) occurs naturally in our ground water and some water systems even add more. Salt is an essential element of life but most experts agree that we probably get more than enough in our diet and do not need more in our drinking and cooking water. if your on a salt free or salt restricted diet, you should not have any additional salt in your water.
Contamination in your water.
Contamination can be caused by many things. Some of the more common causes are improperly functioning septic tanks, leaking underground storage tanks, the use of fertilizers, the use of pesticides, animal waste, bacteria, virus, improperly disposed chemicals, organic and inorganic chemicals. The United States Environmental Protection Agency has established a list of both Primary and Secondary Drinking Water Standards and the WQA has a list of recognized treatment methods for meeting those standards.

Also see Common Water Problems

Reverse Osmosis How it works and common problems

What about Reverse Osmosis?

1. See How Reverse Osmosis Works

2. See Common R.O. Problems

How a water softener actually works

How does my water softener actually work?

1. See Water Softener Basics

Why does soft water feel slimy or slick in the shower?

1. Water that has been conditioned by a water softener allows soap to dissolve more completely than in hard water. It is common for first time users of soft water to have a slimy experience in the shower. This is due to using more soap than is necessary. The amount of soap needed to lather up is very small in soft water. This is one of the benefits of soft water ( less soap is needed in the bathing, laundry, and household cleaning ). Also, the pores of your skin will no longer be clogged by the undissolved soap. Once a person has adjusted their soap usage and is used to the smooth clean feeling achieved by bathing in soft water, they will have a negative "ruff" feeling, if they bath in hard water again.

Odor in water

I have a Water Softener, but I still have odor in my water. Why is that?

1. Water softeners do not remove most taste and odor problems ( they can remove the metallic taste of iron in water ).

2. Odors from hydrogen sulfide ( "rotten egg smell" ) in wells or "bleach" smell in chlorine treated water, require an activated carbon filter to be used in conjunction with the water softener. E-mail us for advice on your situation.

3. Sometimes odor in the hot water only, is caused by the self sacrificing rod installed in your hot water heater. Removal of this rod by your plumber could solve this problem.

Iron removal with water softener

Will a Water Softener remove the iron from my water?

1. Yes, if the iron is still in solution ( it has not been oxidized ). How much it can remove depends on the size resin tank of your softener. The more iron in the water, the larger the resin tank needs to be to remove all the iron. E-mail us for advice on your situation.

I have a working Water Softener, but I am still getting Iron Staining. Why is that?

There are several things that could cause you to still be getting staining. 
1) It is critical that your system never run empty of salt. 
2) It is important that the time of day be kept correct and that no one uses water between 2 a.m. - 3 a.m. when the system is regenerating. While the system is in regeneration, any water used would be unconditioned ( coming straight from the well ).
3) In high iron situations it is usually necessary to include a cleaner with the salt. Iron Out ( about 1/4 cup with each 80 lbs of Salt ) is commonly used. So is Tan-X ( Citric Acid, also 1/4 lbs per 80 lbs. ). A cup or two of Chlorine Bleach can be used, if your softener DOES NOT have "white resins" installed for Tannic Acid Color removal ( this is a special layer of resins sometimes added to the regular resin inside your resin tank ).
4) It could be your resin tank is too small to handle all the iron.
A. What size is the resin tank?
B. What is the level of Iron and Hardness of the water?

5) It could be you are not regenerating often enough, or using enough salt per regeneration.
A. How often does your softener regenerate?
B. How many people are using the water?
C. How much salt are you using per month?

6) On rare occasions the iron could be coming from just the hot water tank. I've seen a few old ones ( over 20 years old ) rusting out on the inside, thus putting iron back into the water. This is also true in older mobile homes ( again over 20 years old ) that used galvanized plumbing under the trailer.

Above are the common reasons a working water softener might still be allowing you to get staining. For additional help and recommendations, please send the answers to the above questions.

Salt usage in water softener

How much salt should my softener be using?

1. The average is 80 lbs. per month, BUT can vary depending upon the type of valve used and the quality of water being treated.

2. Metered valves will tend to use less salt than a non metered unit ( i.e. one set to regenerate every so many days with no regards for actual water used ).

3. An average softener with 1 cu. ft. of resins ( 32,000 grain, 9" x 48" tank ) should use about 8 lbs. per regeneration to achieve a economical 24,000 grain capacity ( hardness in grains divided into grains of capacity results in the gallons of water that can be treated before resins is exhausted ).

I see ads for "No Salt" needed water conditioners. 
How do they work without using salt?

1. Many dealers will advertise a no salt water conditioner. Any brand of water conditioner can be operated without using salt. This is done by using a salt substitute, potassium chloride. It generally cost twice as much as regular salt ( sodium chloride ), and can be difficult to find in some areas. Also, it is recommend to increase the salt setting on your control valve by about 10 % , when using a salt substitute.

2. Some companies offer catalytic filters and/or magnetic devices to soften your water that do not use salt, or anything else to regenerate their product. Buyer beware! If a technology had been developed that could replace a resin based water conditioner, then everyone would be selling it. I know I would. Those salt bags are heavy :)

Low Pressure through softener resin tank

When do the resins in the softener tank need to be changed?

1. The average water softener will not need it's resins replaced in it's life time ( 20 + years ).

2. Water softening resins need to be replaced if the unit has developed a high level of bacteria that does not respond to a cleaning with chlorine. Odors from units left in a not working mode with no water flowing through them for months at a time can develop this problem. Also, units in direct sunlight ( Florida ) can develop a layer of algae that requires complete resin replacement.

3. An excessive amount of sand in resin tank, due to a well starting to collapse, can necessitate resin replacement.
For more Info:
Check out the Resin Replacement Guide

Can the softener cause pressure loss, if so what do I look for, and what do I need to fix it? 

Yes, a softener can cause pressure loss in the home due to resistance from the resin bed caused by one of the following.
1. On well water, this is usually due to fine sand coming from the well.
 2. On softeners installed in the open sunlight ( mostly in Florida ), a layer of algae can grow and thick pieces of this growth clog the lower distributor tube screen when they start peeling off the inside of the resin tank.
 3. On chlorinated water supplies, sand can get into the tank from new construction or work on water lines in the area. All of these situations are rare. 
4. The most common cause of pressure loss occurs on chlorinated water. 
The resins can be damaged by high chlorine levels and turn to mush. This has the same effect as having fine sand at the bottom of the resin tank. Chlorine can DESTROY Resins in as little as 5 years ( I'm seeing 5 - 10 years average )

The solution for all of the above problems is to dump the resin tank, clean and rebed with new resins. One cubic foot of softening resins is enough to properly fill the average residential softener. We can calculate the amount for you, if you provide exact resin tank dimensions. 

The second most common reason for pressure loss occurs with Autotrol control valves. 
The flapper valve discs swell up when used on chlorinated water. This causes the holes in the valve to become block, resulting in pressure loss at high flow rates.

The solution for this problem is to replace the valve discs set and the backwash flow control ball ( this part also swells up ). See Autotrol Parts Page

Softener does not remove the water from salt tank when it regenerates. What should you check?

1. Make sure all the fittings are tight. Also check the tubing going to the salt tank for small cracks. Any air leak will cause the valve to not draw the water out during the regeneration cycle.

2. Make sure the drain line is not clogged or restricted. This also can cause the valves normal suction to fail.

3. Check the injector and injector screen for debris or clogging.

4. On Autotrol valves, check that the two large main valves ( # 2 and # 3 ) are fully closed during the Brine Rinse ( Draw ) cycle. If they fail to close, it results in no suction. In fact it will result in the valve attempting to fill the salt tank during the time it should be removing the salt water. This could be caused by something near the metal "tab" blocking the "tab" from standing straight up ( closing the rubber valve underneath, inside ), OR you could have something inside preventing full closure. On older valves, this can be caused by chlorine damage to the rubber valve discs. See the Rebuild guides on our Do It Yourself ( DIY ) Repairs page for more about the Valve Discs functions and how to replace them. For Piston Assembly or Rotor Disc Valves, the problem can be caused by internal leaks due to wear or damaged Pistons, Rotor, and especially the Seals they contact with in the control valve. Replacement guides for common types will be found on our DIY repairs page.

5. If your Resin Tank is INSIDE the Brine Tank ( one piece "cabinet" design popular in Europe and the U.S.A. ), you may have a leak in the RESIN TANK. Try unplugging the electric, so the Valve can NOT regenerate, and see if the water level continues to Rise from one day to the next.

6. Also check for leaking of the Brine Valve, which should be closed after the Brine Refill is completed. You can disconnect the Brine tubing at the Control Valve end to make sure the Valve is not sending any water to the Brine Tank area ( this could occur if the # 1 Valve Disc ( on Autotrol Valves ) or Brine Piston Assembly ( on Fleck Valves ) or Internal Seal leak ( on Rotor Disc type valves ) is being held open by debris of some kind or is very worn due to age.