Pressure Very Low Through Softener System

When do the resins in the softener tank need to be changed?

1. The average water softener will not need it's resins replaced in it's life time ( 20 + years ). However, chlorinated "city" water is known to break down the resins in as little as 5 years

2. Water softening resins need to be replaced if the unit has developed a high level of bacteria that does not respond to a cleaning with chlorine. Odors from units left in a not working mode with no water flowing through them for months at a time can develop this problem. Also, units in direct sunlight ( Florida ) can develop a layer of algae that requires complete resin replacement.

3. An excessive amount of sand in resin tank, due to a well starting to collapse, can necessitate resin replacement.
For more Info:
Check out the Resin Replacement Guide

Can the softener cause pressure loss, if so what do I look for, and what do I need to fix it? 
Yes, a softener can cause pressure loss in the home due to resistance from the resin bed caused by one of the following.
1. On well water, this is usually due to fine sand coming from the well.
 2. On softeners installed in the open sunlight ( mostly in Florida ), a layer of algae can grow and thick pieces of this growth clog the lower distributor tube screen when they start peeling off the inside of the resin tank.
 3. On chlorinated water supplies, sand can get into the tank from new construction or work on water lines in the area. All of these situations are rare. 
4. The most common cause of pressure loss occurs on chlorinated water.
The resins can be damaged by high chlorine levels and turn to mush. This has the same effect as having fine sand at the bottom of the resin tank. 

The solution for all of the above problems is to dump the resin tank, clean and rebed with new resins. One cubic foot of high capacity ( 8 % cross link ) softening resins is enough to properly fill the average residential softener. We can calculate the amount for you, if you provide exact resin tank dimensions. And we have common tank sizes and capacity chart on our Resin Replacement Guide web page
The second most common reason for pressure loss occurs with Autotrol control valves. 
The flapper valve discs swell up when used on chlorinated water. This causes the holes in the valve to become block, resulting in pressure loss at high flow rates. To see an example go here
The solution for this problem is to replace the valve discs set and the backwash flow control ball ( this part also swells up ). See Autotrol Parts Page

High Water in Brine Tank - Problems and Solutions

My softener does not remove the water from my salt tank when it regenerates.
 What should I check?

1. Make sure all the fittings are tight. Also check the tubing going to the salt tank for small cracks. Any air leak will cause the valve to not draw the water out during the regeneration cycle.

2. Make sure the drain line is not clogged or restricted. This also can cause the valves normal suction to fail.

3. Check the injector and injector screen for debris or clogging.

4. On Autotrol valves, check that the two large main valves ( # 2 and # 3 ) are fully closed during the Brine Rinse ( Draw ) cycle. If they fail to close, it results in no suction. In fact it will result in the valve attempting to fill the salt tank during the time it should be removing the salt water. This could be caused by something near the metal "tab" blocking the "tab" from standing straight up ( closing the rubber valve underneath, inside ), OR you could have something inside preventing full closure. On older valves, this can be caused by chlorine damage to the rubber valve discs.
See the Rebuild guides on our Do It Yourself ( DIY ) Repairs page for more about the Valve Discs functions and how to replace them.
For Piston Assembly or Rotor Disc Valves, the problem can be caused by internal leaks due to wear or damaged Pistons, Rotor, and especially the Seals they contact with in the control valve. Replacement guides for common types will be found on our DIY repairs page.

5. If your Resin Tank is INSIDE the Brine Tank ( one piece "cabinet" design popular in Europe and the U.S.A. ), you may have a leak in the RESIN TANK.
Try unplugging the electric, so the Valve can NOT regenerate, and see if the water level continues to Rise from one day to the next.

6. Also check for leaking of the Brine Valve, which should be closed after the Brine Refill is completed.
You can disconnect the Brine tubing at the Control Valve end to make sure the Valve is not sending any water to the Brine Tank area ( this could occur if the # 1 Valve Disc ( on Autotrol Valves ) or Brine Piston Assembly ( on Fleck Valves ) or Internal Seal leak ( on Rotor Disc type valves ) is being held open by debris of some kind or is very worn due to age.

Be sure to check out the Do It Yourself page on our website, and read more on this BLOG for additional helpful information.

And WatermanAndy's YouTube Channel Videos

Why is new Venturi Nozzle Assembly wet and label coming off?

Yesterday I received my order. I was happy with the speedy

delivery. However, when I open the package it certainly looked like this is a

used part. The paper label on the venturi nozzle assembly 7187065 is

not readable. Also some water was still inside the assembly (is that from

testing the part?). When I opened the assembly the gasket has "visible

channels" which the Kenmore troubleshooting web site says is a sign of a bad

gasket (see attached document - screen shot from www.kenmorewater.com/website/animations/product-animation/ts_index.html ). Am I out of line on these questions?

* I can understand your concerns, but the product is not used, only "tested".

Ecowater ( the manufacturer for all the "brands" that sell this type valve ) Tests Every Nozzle Venturi Assembly prior to shipping to us.
They come to us WET and 1/2 full of water EVERY TIME.

The result is damage to paper label. And we try to shake the water out as best we can before shipping to you. Not much else we can do about the labels ( may be we should remove them completely? ).

*** And the "channels" form in the rubber gasket shortly after assembly. They are not a defect. We sell hundreds of these, and they all come the way you describe.

The cracked, brittle, and deep channeling as described in the document you attached is not the same a the minor grooves in the new rubber gasket.

The older gaskets were actually pressed card board like material, and did not hold up well. That is why ( many years ago ) they switch to the Duro 70 rubber gasket materials ( holds up much better / longer ).

*** The part is NEW.

How To Replace Media ( Carbon, Birm, Greensand, or Calcite ) in Tank

1. Turn off water, unplug control valve from electric outlet, disconnect control valve from water lines, and drain line.

2. Unscrew control valve ( may require two people ) from Tank.

3. Remove control valve and distributor tube ( the two normally can be separated at the control valve, as the pipe is only connected to the valve by an o-ring ).

********** EMPTYING the TANK

4. Now the fun part. Depending on your situation ( size and location of your tank ), you need to either dump the water and Media ( carbon, birm, calcite, and gravel ) out OR use suction to remove them ( shop vac, or other means ).

5. You can clean the inside of the tank with chlorine ( bleach ) if you feel it needs it. If you need to scrub the inside of the tank, use a clean toilet bowl brush with piece of pipe to extend the handle.

******** REFILL with NEW Media.

6. a. The next step is to replace the center distributor pipe into tank.

6. b. Then you pour a 4-6 inch layer of fine gravel ( 1/8" x 1/4" ) into the tank. Remember, you MUST have the distributor tube in the tank before you start filling with gravel. **** Be sure you cover the top opening of your distributor tube to prevent any gravel from getting inside. A plastic sandwich bag and rubber band works well.
Now you will slowly pour in the Media ( carbon, calcite, birm, etc ). The tank should be 50 - 65 % full when you are done.

7. Now do steps 3,2,1 in reverse ( put valve back on tank, screw on by hand, and reconnect pipes and power ).

8. Once reassembled you should backwash for 10 minutes using your control valve ( All control valves have some way to manually advance the valve to backwash ). You can allow the valve to run a complete regeneration cycle, but it is not needed. You are just "cleaning" or "rinsing" the "dust" off the new media.

9. With the control valve in the normal "service" position, run the water in the home for a few minutes to clear the lines of any "trapped" air or debris loosened during your repair.

10. - You're Done -

Also, SEE this GUIDE,
For Water Softener RESIN replacement

Media Replacement Guide on Softenerparts.com

Adapt New Valve to Smaller Pipe in Tank

Question: New Valve Body has 1.05" distributor pipe opening, and my old center distributor pipe ( or "riser pipe" ) is only 13/16" O.D.. What do I do next?

* 3 ways to "Adapt" valve body to 13/16" pipe

** There is a bushing you can purchase to adapt to your smaller O.D. pipe,

see:

http://www.softenerparts.com/Tube_Bushing_13_16_x_1_05_part_1041010_p/ap1001986.htm

** Or you can purchase the new Bottom Distributor and make a new center pipe,

see:

http://www.softenerparts.com/Distributor_Bottom_1_05_O_D_piping_pn_D1236_p/md1236.htm

** Or for a quick adapter, you can use 2" length of 3/4" PVC pipe, which has an O.D. of 1.05" ( and you must use the common Schedule 40 to have the I.D. needed to fit tightly over your 13/16" O.D. pipe ) and glue ( PVC cement ) over the top your current 13/16" pipe, and this will become your "adapter". Remove a little water from the tank before attempting to use the PVC cement.

Logix Timer 700 series - Start Regeneration Video

The GE Osmonic Autotrol Valves 255 and 268 have been available with the Logix electronic controls for several years now ( 740 and 760, now 742 and 762 ). This 1 minute video shows how to start a manual regeneration for tonight or immediate start.

GE SmartWater Switch Activation Not in Sync with Cam Gear

*PROBLEM:

The softener stops just short of where it needs to for the fill and brine cycles. On the valve body the indicator is to the left of the letter slightly past mark, but it still needs a little bit more to make the fill and brine work. What's up with this? Is this a problem with the rotor and stem having "stretched" from being so hard to turn?

* No

*ANSWER:

You can make it work by taking the micro-switch and moving the bend of the "arm" out farther, so it lets the Cam Gear turn 1/32" further and thus reaches the correct position to engage the proper cycle in the regeneration process.

** This solution is the only one I can think of, as the switch is what "tells" the circuit board that the Cam Gear has reached the point it's "suppose" to stop at.

You could replace the switch, but there is no guaranty the new switch would not behave the same.

I've looked at a newer model of the SmartWater softener, and they have the bend further down the arm, exactly where it needed to be, to correct the cycle position problem.

Low Water Flow from Reverse Osmosis System

The number one reason for low water flow from a reverse osmosis system is low air pressure in the holding tank.

( Note: Reason number two is clogged pre-filter, so check that too ).

The Problem: Low Volume and Poor Pressure
Little to No air pressure will result in very little water being pushed out of the holding tank. You will have a full and heavy holding tank, but without the air pressure, you'll never get much water out of the tank. Too much air pressure ( say over 10 psi on a small tank ) will result in good water flow but will severely limit the amount of water that can be stored in the holding tank. So, it is recommended to put 8 psi of air in your under the sink reverse osmosis holding tank. If you get water coming out of the air valve, then it is time to purchase a new holding tank.

To Check:
With all possible water drained from the holding tank, you want to get an air pressure reading of 8 PSI of air pressure. There is a "tire" valve on your holding tank somewhere ( usually the bottom ). You really should use a special low pressure air gauge. One that shows the air pressure in one pound increments starting with one pound. The average tire gauge starts at 5 or 10 lbs. psi.

 

Tank Replacement Questions and Answers:

Do you just hook up the tank and start using it?  If not, will it come with instructions?

 

* Simply turn off the RO incoming water, open your RO faucet to relieve any pressure. Disconnect tubing at the Tank shut off.

 

* You will unscrew the shut off elbow that is on your old tank and you can re-use it on your new tank.

Just be sure to use about 3 layers of Teflon Tape on the threads of the new tank,

AND do not over tighten the elbow fitting, or you will crack it.

We sell new shut off elbows, and they should be available locally where ever plumbing supplies are sold.

The thread size on the tank is called 1/4" mpt. And the tubing size connection will be either 1/4" or 3/8" O.D. ( depends on what size your system uses, both are common ).

 

* Also note, the tank comes pre-charged. You should not need to add any air to it.

 

More on Replacement TANK, see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/2432TANKWH/

 

New Timer Motor 18743 kicks the unit into 'REGEN', but that's as far as it will go.

If you install a new Fleck 5600 motor timer and it does keep the time o.k. and even kicks the unit into 'REGEN',

but that's as far as it will go,

THEN:

* It is possible you have dropped the curved washer that sits behind the motor mounting plate on older models.

see:

13299 Curved Washer Older Fleck 5600

* It's job is to apply a small amount of tension to the 2 drive gears behind the motor mounting plate. The newer plates do not require the washer,

see:

http://www.softenerparts.com/Motor_Mounting_Plate_Fleck_5600_PN_13175_p/3413175.htm

* Check your plate to see if it is FLAT or "beveled". If FLAT look for the washer, or order one ( or a new metal plate ).

* If you have the newer mounting plate already, then the problem could be you do not have it securely ( or completely ) screwed down into the plastic housing ( or the plastic at one of the 2 screws is cracked ).

Hydrogen Sulfide levels effected by amount of water used and the ground water table

CUSTOMER WRITES:

I have increased the chlorine and it seems to be doing the trick.  Thanks for all your help.  One last question, what did you mean by; Are you using extra water for irrigation lately?  The irrigation water is drawn prior to the treatment system.  How could that be a contributing factor?  

 

** The more water used from the Well, the higher the concentration of hydrogen sulfide you will be "pulling up" from the ground.

Some people have "no" odor, except when they use 50 - 100 gallons or more. And any Well that has hydrogen sulfide already, will have a higher concentration coming from the Well as the water demand increases ( i.e. watering the lawn, filling the swimming pool ) and as the actual water table in the ground drops ( during "dry spells" ).

Once the summer rains begin, and the water table rises back to normal levels, and less water is used, then the level of hydrogen sulfide in the water drops back to "normal" levels.

 

 

Autotrol Valve flow rate problem - Either Resin in Tank, or Valve Discs not opening enough

* Custom Writes:

 

I have a Autotrol 155 which seems to have a low flow rate while in the service mode. This was noticed over a few days due to an electric shower which was unable to operate correctly (either the water was cold or boiling hot) as the flow rate dropped below the shower units operational pressure. One last thing that has been noticed; when there is no other water usage in the house, you can turn a tap/faucet on, the water comes out at full pressure but quickly drops off to a very low flow. If the unit is bypassed then the normal pressure is restored. The unit has been installed for approximately 17 years.

Is there any advice you can shed some light on with?

*** If the water source is chlorinated, it could be the Resin in the tank are breaking down into fine fragments and clogging the bottom distributor.

They can easily be replaced, and this would restore normal flow rates.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.resinreplacement

 

OR if the Timer Assembly is not DOWN and LOCKED in by the Timer Retaining Pin ( 5F ) or the Out Put Connector on the Back of the Timer Assembly is cracked ( 21E ), then the camshaft may not be holding open the # 2 and # 3 Valve Discs to allow proper flow through the Valve.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP21E/Camshaft_Out_Put_Connector_Autotrol_21E_or_1031496.html

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.autotrol_service_hints.autotrol_155_rebuidling

 

 

Erie 2001 Valve Leaking to Drain or Brine Tank - Cam Sync problem

** Customer shares how to Sync the Cam on an Erie 2001 Rotary Valve

I began by removing the cover of the front of the control module. A thorough examination revealed the two micro switches I mentioned in earlier correspondence.

See picture 001 notice the red rectangle in the lower left. The micro switches are activated by cylinder shaped device by it’s rotation. See picture 002 Notice the little rusty screw(green arrow). That screw allows you to turn the cylinder with out turning the worm gear or the valve body. You see in picture 003 exactly how this occurs. If you depress the micro switch the motor will turn.

I simply used the plug to stop and start the motor until the valve body was in the closed position and then loosened the screw and rotated the cylinder until the cylinder until the recess was at the button on the micro switch. This has seemed to put everything where it needs to be for proper operation.

Autotrol Valve Leaking to Drain after Replacing Valve Discs

Customer Writes:

After installing new flapper valve disc set in my Autotrol Valve,  I checked the function before powering up timer. The values all seemed to work. I then turned the water flow back on and have a flow from the drain line. I removed the cam and checked the flapper by hand each seems to close and open properly.
What is your suggestion?

** One of the Rear Valve Discs is not sealing ( last 2 are the Backwash, and the 3rd from last is Purge - Forward Rinse ).

This could be debris that flowed up into the head, or it could be cracked plastic inside the valve body where the valve disc "rest" and "seal" when closed ( standing straight up ).

** Recommend removing top plate ( all those little screws on top ) and valve discs ( they pull straight up and out ) and make a close inspection with a flash light for any signs of debris, or a cracked "port" inside the valve body.

** Repair may be as simple as clearing the debris ( which can be media from the tank, or some other odd thing ), or if valve body is cracked, then the valve body will need to be replaced ( if still available ), or complete valve head can be replaced by compatible current version of a similar Autotrol Valve. Email us for further assistance if this is the case ( cracked internal valve port ).

Follow up on Culligan Valve Replacement Question

Does the resin tank come with the tube that goes into it?

 

* Valve comes with new Bottom Distributor to make a new center distributor pipe,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.valvereplacement

 

and how do you know what valve fits what tank?

 

* All Fleck and Autotrol Valves fit "standard" tanks ( which all tanks are standard unless you own a Culligan or Sears water softener ).

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/3100.media_tanks/

 

and for more about Resin replacing and Sizes of Tanks, and Quantity of Resins,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.resinreplacement

 

Culligan Valve Replacement Question

QUESTION: I got a Culligan Medallist Series water softener and i want to get away from culligan. What valve would replace the one I got.

* Sorry, none ( directly ).

All true Culligan Valves and Tanks have threads that are Proprietary.

Nothing else will fit on the tank. They designed everything about their systems to be proprietary ( thus requiring all parts and service to come through only their authorized Culligan Dealers ).

You can buy a new Valve ( The Fleck 5600 is our recommendation ).

5600 12 day softener control

AND a new Tank ( common one cu.ft. size would require a 9 x 48 tank ).

Tank: 9 x 48

And then dump the resins into the new tank, and then screw the new valve onto the new tank.

The brine tank can be re-used ( only requiring purchase of 3/8" brine tubing and an adapter

Elbow, 1/4 f x 3/8 c Fitting Plastic Jaco - our PN 584564NO .

For additional help guides on Valve Replacement and Resin Replacement ( or re-use ), please refer to our Website www.softenerparts.com ( and the "Do It Yourself Repairs" section ).

QUESTION: Does the resin tank come with the tube that goes into it?

* Valve comes with new Bottom Distributor to make a new center distributor pipe,

see:

http://softnerparts.com/category/6600.valvereplacement

and how do you know what valve fits what tank?

* All Fleck and Autotrol Valves fit "standard" tanks ( which all tanks are standard unless you own a Culligan, Ecowater, or Sears type water softener ).

see:

http://softnerparts.com/category/3100.media_tanks/

and for more about Resin replacing and Sizes of Tanks, and Quantity of Resins,

see:

http://softnerparts.com/category/6600.resinreplacement

Water Soft WSCB-32D water softener = Autotrol Valve Links

To my knowledge the Water Soft units ( WSCB-32D water softener ) use the Autotrol Valve made by the GE Water Treatment / Autotrol division.

The "CB" stands for Cabinet.

The "32D", stands for 32,000 grain capacity ( one cu.ft. of resin used ) and Demand regeneration timer assembly ( typical the 460i ).

And the most common valve is the Autotrol 255 with the 460i Timer Assembly ( made after 1995, prior years would be the 155 valve ).

For Helpful guides On our website ( www.softenerparts.com ),

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.autotrol_service_hints.255w460i

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/0600/

and for manuals in pdf form for downloading on valve manufacturer's website;

See: http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/

Look at the 255 Valve / 400 Series Controls

and the 460i Electronic Control System Operation

How and Why to use Acid Neutralizing Media Calcite and Corosex ( Mangnesium Oxide )

If the water's pH is less then nuetral ( 7.0 ), then correction is required to prevent the water from corriding the metal in your plumbing.

Most common "symptoms" are blue stains from dissolved copper pipes, and iron staining problems from the water dissolving any iron ( in pipes or pumps or well casings ) that is has come in contact with.

A filter tank ( usually 10" x 54" ) is filled with either Calcite or Corosex ( Magnesium Oxide ).

Both are used to "raise" the pH of water that is acidic.

Which one and how much to use depends on the pH of your water. Calcite ( which is really just cushed marble ) dissolves slowly and is used when the pH is between 6.0 - 6.8 to raise to 7.0 - 7.5.

If the starting pH of the source water is less then 6.0, then Corosex may be needed as it dissolves faster.

And it is common to use a "mix" of 50/50 Calcite and Corosex.

These are media that must be ADDED to the Filter Tank every year ( anywhere from 6 months to no more than 2 years ).

And the way to "tell" is by checking the pH before and after the filter tank.

Also, you can measure the amount of media in the tank.

Normally the tank should be "filled" to about 60% full ( and not more, or you end up with media clogging the Valve during Backwash ), and not less than 30% full.

And note, there is always 5 - 8 inches of gravel used at the bottom of the tank as an "under bedding".

Occasionally the media becomes hard, and must be dumped and refilled with "fresh" media.

Or it becomes iron "fouled" and a complete re-bedding is the best way to improve the water quality.

This type of filter tank is almost always followed by a water softener used to remove the "hardness" added by the filter tank ( as the media dissolves it increases the hardness in the water ), and the softener can help remove iron that is often in the water.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/23A802101/Calcite_50_lbs_Bag_12_Cu_Ft.html

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/23A8011/Corosex_50_lbs_Bag_23_cubic_foot__23A8011.html

 

Common Tanks sizes and amount of media to use are:
9" x 48" = 15 lbs. Gravel and 1.0 cu.ft. media
10" x 54" = 20 lbs. Gravel and 1.5 cu.ft. media

Why We Prefer Email Inquiries Over Phone Calls

For the fastest assisting with trouble shooting your water softener / filter problem, we strongly encourage you email us. Please include your brand or valve type, and a description of the problem and what you have tried so far to solve it.

* Please email if you need additional product information before ordering.
Email will be answered daily ( Our staff of technicians answer the emails through out the day and late into the night ), so please send your questions.

******************** Emailed questions works well, because we can usually provide a WRITTEN answer quickly by referring to answers on the website. So expect to get one or more LINKS to the information you need. These also include video guides. 95% of all inquiries are similar, and we have the ANSWER already somewhere on the website. These thought out answers to common problems and questions will be supplied to you by email, and you will have plenty of time to absorb the information and then write back if you have specific questions or you require additional information.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Second reason email is prefered, is time factor ( much quicker - allowing us to respond to the needs of more people in any given day ). It is easier to answer a question once in written form as opposed to repeating the answer 3 times on the phone ( as has sometimes been the case ).

Again, we prefer you email us as oppose to phoning us, because the volume of inquiries otherwise becomes impossible to properly manage.
* All customers are instantly given our customer support phone number with their online receipt at the end of Check Out.

* So, I encourage you to email your questions or concerns. You'll generally be surprised how fast you get a reply.

Click Here to E-mail Questions, support@softenerparts.com > * If you have questions about a particular order, please include your order number.

Clogged Injector in Iron Filter

Customer writes:

Thanks for your help.  The problem is described in detail below, but the short version is that I couldn't get the Potassium Permanganate to draw during the regeneration cycle, even after I checked the injection valves.   Your advice was essentially, "check them again, because they're the problem 99% of the time".  So I did, and you were right.  I'm writing this email to give you some feedback which may help others.

 

The green sand system - when I first checked the injection valve, it appeared clear.  I could see a nice round hole.   BUT, I didn't suspect that although I could see a hole, that it should have been Bigger.  When I inspected the second time, I again saw the hole, but used probe to scrape the walls and found a uniform crusty buildup.  When cleaned, the hole was twice the diameter!  It now draws fine.

 

 

Fleck 5600 Still Getting Stuck After Replacing the Pistons and Seals Kit

CUSTOMER WRITES:

I have purchased parts for my fleck 5600 system before and I am again having trouble.

The timer still gets STUCK.

I have rebuilt it ( new Pistons and Seals Kit ) twice and now am not sure what to do. Unit is from 2002. Please call me.

** After talking to you I think it is just the Timer Motor. They can get "weak" and not be able to drive through the regeneration cycle.

And the motors used by Fleck from around 2000 - 2003 all had plastic drive gears that would not hold up well under pressure ( they begin to "wobble" and jump off the Idler Gear they "drive" ).

So, the next most likely step would be to REPLACE the Timer Motor ( avialable in 120 volt or 24 volt versions ). see: http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3418743 And here is a LINK to the Video showing how easy it is to change. see: http://softenerparts.info/2008/06/18/replacing-the-timer-motor--187431--on-fleck-5600-valve.aspx

***** Other Possible Causes of the Valve Sticking or being Stiff

** Some water is really "ruff" ( high in minerals and iron ), and will wear out ( and create build up ) the Pistons and Seals every couple of years. And they would need to be replaced more often than "average" ( which is in the 5 - 10 year range ). ** If the pistons and seal are new ( or almost new ) and the Valve is still stiff to turn, then you want to check two things. 1 ) Front Knob, as it can "split" where it attaches to the main gear shaft and cause drag then cycling around. You must remove the label to get to the screw in the center. Remove and inspect. see: http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3414177/Front_Knob_For_5600.html 2 ) Check the plastic "housing" where the Main Shaft Gear passes through the body. This area holds to small ball bearings that rest on springs, and sometimes the plastic cracks in this area. The result is "binding" under the pressure of regeneration cycling. Replacing the Housing ( transferring all parts from your old one to the new one ), or you can replace the Power Head ( cost more, but a lot easier ). see: http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3413170/Gear__Main_Gear_And_Shaft_For_5600__3413170.html and http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3413162010/Housing_wpin_Fleck_5600__3413162010.html

CUSTOMER INPUT that might help some BINDING issues ( when no visible damage is observed after taking valve a part and inspecting all the plastic parts ). Just for your information, in case some one else experiences this. After tearing this unit apart a couple of times, and not seeing any damage, and it still not cycling properly and hanging up. I noticed that on the Main Gear and Shaft, pn # 13170, there was a powder residue, where it seemed to have been rubbing against the housing bore. I took some silicon grease and lubricated the shaft. Now for the past month and a half or more I have not had the unit stop, or lose time again.