Parts - Culligan

Can you get Culligan parts or recommend where?

* ** Sorry, but we can not provide parts or service information for Culligan systems.

Culligan systems are 100% proprietary.

Parts and Service are only available from your local authorized Culligan Dealer.

 

Tectonic Water Softener Model # CB-32D

I am trying to locate a parts list & schematics for the

Tectonic Water Softener Model #CB-32D.

 

I have called the following Tectonics and was referred

to a company it had be sold to: CSI: Water Soft. Water Soft

in turn referred me to your company Softenerparts.com

 

*****

Tectonic was a proprietary Valve used on a line of cabinet model system.

We do not have ( but are trying to get ) the parts diagram ( schematics ) for this unit.

We do have several photos sent to use by owners of this system.

The Valve was made by Fleck ( now part of Pentair Water Treatment ), and the Valve Body is based on the Fleck 5600, which we have all the parts and diagrams for.

So, if the problem is in the lower portion of the Valve, or with the By Pass, you will find these parts under our Fleck 5600 parts section,

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/1100.fleck5600parts/

 

* If the problem is with the Drive Assembly ( power head ), it would need to be replaced entirely with the Fleck 5600 Econominder ( metered ) power head ( D = metered, or Demand ).

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3460354/Power_Head__5600_Metered_Standard__Control_Valve_Drive__3460354.html

 

NOTE: The Tectonic Cover will NOT fit the Fleck 5600 power head, but the cover is really an option not required for indoor installation.

Covers are available for the Fleck 5600 Standard and "L" Designer power heads we sell.

 

OR another option is to replace the ENTIRE valve with a new COMPLETE Fleck 5600 Econominder Valve.

Retaining the use of the Tanks, Resin, and By Pass of the Tectonics.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/3405600102

 

 

North Star or Sears Valve - Error 3 after replacing motor

  I have a Kenmore water softener with a few problems. I replaced the motor a few months ago. Worked fine until recently. I got a error 3 code, which I believe is motor torque. I removed the motor and still has the code after clearing it. Any ideas?

 

* Motor failure is sometimes caused by the "drag" caused by the Rotor Disc and Seal Kit.

It is often NECESSARY to Rebuild the moving parts and not just replace the motor when stalling occurs.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/7199232/Rotor_Disc_Sears_GE_NorthStar_7199232_7103964_WS26X10002.html

 

Hopefully you have not damaged the new motor yet, and rebuilding the valve will be enough to fix the valve.

 

Error Code 3 can also be the switch,

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/7030713/Switch__7030713_WS21X10003.html

 

and see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/2600.sears.troubleshooting/

 

 

H2OW TO Softener = Fleck 5600 SE valve on 10 x 19 tank in cabinet

* Customer wrote in looking for replacement tank for HOW TO ( H2ow To ) softener:

Andrew,The hole in the top is approx.2 3/4" across-the overall height is 18 3/4" tall - outer diameter is approx.

10" - and the circumference is approx.32 1/2" around.

 

* After viewing photos of valve and tank, I replied:

 

The Valve is the Fleck model 5600 SE with Fleck's plastic by pass ( 60049 ) and yoke.

All standard design and parts.

The Tank is standard opening ( standard  2 1/2" x 8 NPT opening looks like 2 3/4" ).

The height is unusual. Very short.

Do you have your heart set on a 10" x 18"?

I'd say yours is 10" x 19", judging from the photo.

I found a 10" x 19" fiberglass used for small hot water softeners, and this may be available ( at almost double the cost of the "standard" size tanks we sell ).

 

Your unit only holds 1/2 cu.ft. of resin in it ( 16,000 grains ).

Enough for average city water  or well water with no iron and hardness less than 20 grains.

 

A low cost replacement would be the 10" x 35" tank.

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/60RT1035/Tank__10_x_35_Polyglass_No_Base_Almond.html

 

It could be shipped with a Base ( no extra charge ), and stand next to your brine cabinet, or without base in the cabinet, but you would have to leave the top off, as the new height would be much taller than your small cabinet.

 

And you could technically double your resin capacity to One Cu.Ft. with this tank ( that is what "normal" size cabinet softeners use, 10" x 35" and 1 cu.ft. resin ).

 

And you could use the free standing ( with base ) 8" x 44" tank and use up to 3/4 cu.ft. of resin.

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/86844HTP/Tank__8_x_44_Almond_Polyglass_wBase.html

 

*REPAIR PARTS for How To system:

And if you ever need parts for your valve, they would be listed under Fleck 5600 parts, or some items are "special" for the SE ( simple electronics ) version, and would be best "Searched" using the term "5600SE" in the product search box.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/1100.fleck5600parts/

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/346065200/Timer_Circuit_Board_SE_Fleck_60652_or_42099_or_40283__346065200.html

 

Autotrol Brine Refill Problem - No water in salt tank

Does the tank float have to touch the bottom of the tank to siginal the autotrol to put water into the brine tank

* No.

or is it metered after the brine is injected into the softener ( I'm wondering if the float is in the wrong position)

* Float is to prevent OVERFLOWING, and does not control refill.

Refill is a "timed" cycle ( at the end of the regeneration process ),

AND

The "flow" rate of this timed refill is controlled by the Brine Control Dial.

This sometimes gets clogged and requires cleaning ( it unscrews from the Valve Body ). * Also, note:

There is one of your two flow control balls ( 4F ) sitting inside behind it ( refer to parts diagram of the valve body ).

And unscrewing is all there is to removing the control from the valve body.

And once removed you will see if there is any debris blocking the small white teeth openings ( they are what "regulate" the amount of water that get past during REFILL Cycle ).

See:

http://www.softenerparts.com/Brine_Control_Dial_3_19_lbs_1F_19_or_1034263_p/ap1f19.htm

Visual Guide for Installing Rotor Disc and Seal Kit Sears Type Valve

See animation from the Morton softener site - the link is below.  Their
softener is another variant of the Ecowater/NorthStar/Sear/GE Smartwater type system.  The animations are almost identical to the animations on the Kenmore site, except the Morton animation also shows the flow paths, disassembly and reassembly of the complete valve body, including all the o-rings.  It also shows the complete float assembly - Kenmore site doesn't show either of these assemblies last time I checked.

After the link is pulled up you have the option to run program - I had to
click the button twice - may just be my browser but I figured I'd mention
it.
http://www.systemsaver.com/morton-website/instructions/index.html

 

Replacing motor in the 440i Timer Assembly

I bought an electric motor for my autotrol 440i. I can not figure out how to remove the motor. There is no screw in this one only a clip at the top and bottom. I can not turn it to remove it. Help!

 

* You must take the case a part from the front ( remove tripper arm gear and skipper wheel ), carefully unsnapping the gray cover from the black back plate. Press the black output "button" in as you pull cover up from the bottom.

THEN you can remove the two gears above the motor from the INSIDE, and you will be able to turn the motor from the back and remove ( once you've taken the gears out that prevent the motor from being turned from the rear ). Re-assembly is the reverse.

It's a bit of a "pain", but it can be done. Just take your time with it.

Sears Valve Body drips at INLET

Customer Writes:

I have a Sears water softener.  Model 625.348590

It is leaking where the supply side water inlet goes into the top valve body.  Just drip drip drip all the time.  quite a bit of water.   I believe I need to get part number 7082053 ( Valve Body standard ).  That is the part in the Sears web site schematic.  I need to check something on that part though.

looking at this image, the top left is the inlet and the bottom left is the outlet.  Inside the inlet, just behind the clip slot (about an inch in from the top left), there is a little "step" that the mating part "butts" up against.  On mine, one side of this is smooth while the "step" goes about 3/4 of the way around.  I think over 10 years of hard water, the "step" on that side has "eroded" away.  I believe that is where the water seeps out since there is nothing for the mating part to butt up against on that side.

Can you check and see that the parts your parts have the step molded into the inlet side and that it goes all the way around the inside of the hole ?

If you look down the "throat" of the inlet, the circle on the left is what mine looks like now.  The circle on the right is how I think it should look. I think the water leaks out where there is no step anymore.

 

***************

    Thanks for the detailed explanation and diagram. 

* I checked the Valve Bodies we have in stock. They ALL are made the way you describe.

The inner portion of the Inlet has a "step" that only goes around 3/4 of the way. The Outlet is 100%.

And I noticed the larger version valve bodies ( 7171145 ) have NO "step".

I believe the KEY to not leaking is the Oring ( 7170288 ) and the condition of the Plastic valve body.

They are regular plastic, so over time they can warp or crack.

We have been selling a lot of these every month. So, your problem is fairly common.

Sears and GE Smartwater - Water Not Soft - Distributor Oring problem and solution

Sears Kenmore, NorthStar, and GE Smartwater softeners use the same clamp to tank valve for the past 15 plus years. On occasion the distributor oring that fits on the outside of the riser pipe will slip up and off the center pipe in the resin tank.

Here is the way one customer solved this problem ( problem caused by the pipe being just a little too short ).

*

I pulled the central tube out completely with the bottom distributor ( # 10 and # 11 ) and cleaned it.  Since I needed approximately 1/8" extension to prevent the O-ring ( # 7 ) from slipping out at the top, I cut the tube at two places, about 10" central piece, keeping at least 6" at the top piece in order to be able to slip the top distributor ( # 9 ) on top without hitting the inserted coupler.  I used two 3/4" PVC couplers to glue the three pieces together.  This extended the length by 1/8" (each coupler has a central shoulder of 1/16").  Waited till the joint dried and lowered the tube into the tank.  While lowering, some resins oozed out of the tank, may be couple of handfuls.  Carefully assembled the rest of the parts and then started the recharge. Glad to say it is working fine so far.  I waited till it recharged and soft water is flowing once again before writing this E-mail.

I would say this may also be possible to extend by using only one 3/4"  PVC coupler, but you will need to carefully judge the amount of "extension" you need to add to prevent the oring from slipping off the top.

This problem is most common on city water because of the higher water pressure and the chlorine causing the resins to swell, but can occur on any type water, since the primary issue is the pipe being a little bit short.

 

Figure "B" with the O-ring over the outside of the pipe is CORRECTLY installed.
Figure "A", with O-ring on top is WRONG.

Low Pressure Through Softener On Well Water

PROBLEM:

Our water comes from a well and is not chlorinated.  The water pressure is good coming in but no pressure coming out.   What is the problem?

 

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

1 ) A filter ( used in 12 inch housing ) that needs to be cleaned or replaced installed BEFORE the water softener.

OR if you don't have one of those.

 

2 ) A tank on well water can fill with Sand ( you would notice some in the house ).

3 ) A tank on well water installed OUTSIDE, using a light color ( like Almond ) and no "jacket" ( to protect from the sunlight ) can grow a thick layer of algae inside the tank. This layer will break off and then clog the slot of bottom distributor in the resin tank.

4 ) IF you have an Autotrol Valve, the Timer Assembly may be sliding up. The Timer Assembly is held in place by a small timer retaining pin ( old pn 5f ). The Timer Assembly is what holds the Camshaft down in place. The Camshaft ( on Autotrol Valves ) must hold open the # 2 and # 3 Valve Discs to allow water to flow through the Valve - Tank - into the house. The "output" connector ( old pn 21E ) could also be broken. It is the part of the Timer Assembly that holds the Camshaft.

 

Problem with filter - New Microline CTA Membrane

* Customer Writes:

I ordered a set of three Microline filters from you at the beginning of the year ( S1224RS CTA Membrane, S7011 Sediment Prefilter, & S7025 GAC Post Filter).

I installed the filters and noticed that only a drip was coming out of the faucet.  I waited overnight and tried and with the same results.  I then took the first filter out and saw good flow.  I took the second filter out and saw good flow.  The third filter was only getting drips, there was no flow.  My conclusion is that the middle filter ( S1224RS CTA Membrane) is not functioning perhaps it is clogged.  

Have you experienced this before.  Do you have any advice on how to get the filter working.

* ANSWERS:

The middle "filter" is the membrane, and it only makes the water very slowly ( drips ), and that is why it must collect in the storage tank over night. Make sure your storage tank shut off is "on", and that it has the proper air pressure.

See:

Low water flow RO filters - Tank Pressure Problem

 

and

 

How the R.O. Membrane Works

 

* At this point, what you are describing sounds close to normal. The CTA membranes are the slowest producers of water, and when new, they can take several days to get up to full production rate.

Please, let me know if you need further assistance.

Culligan Valve Replacement

QUESTION:


I have a Culligan Medalist outdoor water softener Serial # 48151804J23
around 3 1/2 years old plagued with problems. I want to replace the entire
mechanism from the tank up.
My question is: Can I replace the entire mechanism with a simple mechanical
one from the tank up? Are all tanks the same? And which one would you
recommend?



ANSWER:


You must replace the Tank and the Valve, since both are proprietary in
design. Here is my recommendation.
***
You need a new Tank ( here is one that holds 1 cu.ft. of resins ),

SEE: TANK - 9 x 48 BLACK POLYGLASS w/BASE ( or other sizes available )

and you can Re-Use your resins in most cases, SEE: RESIN REPLACEMENT GUIDE 


And the brine tank can be used, but you will need some 3/8" O.D. Tubing and
this 1/4" female x 3/8" compression fitting, SEE:

ELBOW, 1/4 f x 3/8 C FITTING PLASTIC JACO


and I recommend "Lock Leak" to seal the connection,
SEE: THREAD SEALANT LOCK LEAK TUBE 39 ML  


* For the Valve, I recommend the FLECK 5600 ECONOMINDER WATER SOFTENER VALVE,


and be sure to read the HOW TO REPLACE VALVE GUIDE

You will need to select either a 3/4" or 1" plastic male yoke
or the Fleck Stainless Steel By Pass 3/4" or 1" to connect the new Fleck valve to your pipes.


Outdoor installations should also include the optional Valve cover ( must be ordered separately, as most people do not need the cover for their indoor installations ).

Setting Time of Day with the Autotrol 440 Tripper Arm Gear 99F

QUESTION:

Could you please tell me how to set the timer on my unit.

I just ordered AP99F tripper gear from you. Mine has a broken tooth on it. When I replace it how do I set the timing on it? I don't have a manual on it.

The timer is a 440i Osmonics Autotrol.

ANSWER:

*** The small "pointer" on the Tripper Arm Gear points to the current time of day ( as shown on the "face plate" of the time ).

You just pull gear out, and point it at the correct time and release.

It will drop into place with the black drive gear in the right corner that drives the tripper arm gear in the 440 and 440i Timer Assemblies.

see:

AP1000601 Face_Plate_440_Timer

SEE HOW TO VIDEO:

Orange Sand coming into House

Orange Sand coming into House Our resin tank appears to have failed. The system filled our house plumbing with an orange sand like material. We close the bypass valve and flushed the system. What should we do with the water conditioner repair or replace? Is the resin tank warranty good for life the system. Our system is 10 years old. ANSWER Repair. Most warranties expire after 5 years. This problem is very common on chlorinated "city" water, but can occur on well water too. The distributor tube inside the resin tank has failed. You can replace the distributor tube by purchasing a new "Bottom" distributor and gluing it to a piece of PVC pipe. See: http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/MD1236 This part combines with a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe( 1.05" O.D. ), which may be a little larger in diameter than the 13/16" O.D. size you may have now ( if your system is an Autotrol made before 1998, that is about the time they changed to the larger size now used on all new valves ). Many other brands have been using the larger 1.05" diameter tube for a longer time. If need be, you can adapter to the opening in the bottom of your valve ( the tube is held into the Valve by an oring, so it pulls out and pushes back in ) by saving 6" of your old 13/16" pipe and gluing it INSIDE the 3/4 PVC pipe ( it is a nice tight fit when using Schedule 40 PVC ). You will want to check the resin level in the tank. It needs to be at least 1/2 full. See:Resin Replacement Guide

Performa Valves Keep Breaking 440i Timers - Solution is...

* Problem:

We have dual tanks for well water with 268/440i controllers. One is for an iron filter, the other a brine tank. We are running into a situation where timers have been destroyed because the camshaft is too hard to turn when they go to a refill cycle. (It took a while, and a couple of timers, to figure this out.) We relieved the pressure on each tank, checked the flappers, and couldn't see a problem. They moved very easily while the pressure was down. Once we got the system up to pressure, though, you really have to shove the refill valves hard to get them to move. (First it was the iron filter, and now the softener valve has the same problem.) Have you ever heard of this?

* YES!!

I would think that I need to replace the flapper valves and timers, but is there something else we should look at?

* Not Flapper Valves, but the Timer and Camshaft.

We checked for obstructions, and I don't think that's the issue.

* The issue is the Timer and Camshaft.

Autotrol has Revised the Timers ( effective January 2008 ) and they have Revised the Camshafts to help prevent this very common problem ( note: it helps, but you still have gears breaking, just not as quickly ).

See:

http://www.softenerparts.com/440_440i_Timer_Repair_s/63.htm

and here are the new camshafts.

Softener,

http://www.softenerparts.com/Camshaft_268_Performa_Softener_Black_1035625_p/ap1035625.htm

Iron Filter,

http://www.softenerparts.com/Camshaft_268_Performa_Valve_Iron_Filter_1030376_p/ap1030376.htm

and here is the "notice" about them.

Subject: Re: Autotrol Performa 263/440i

Would like to talk to someone about our unit which froze and stripped the cam gear. I ordered a replacement from you last Oct. but the problem seems not to be solved. Seems the cam is very difficult to turn. Wonder if the 460i would be any better?

*** Problem is the Performa Valve is too big for the 400 series timers ( 440i or 460i would have same problems ). The Revised Camshaft helps relief some of the pressure, but the Timer will always be the "weak leak".

There is a Revised Camshaft ( gray ) for the 263 ( backwash only ) version of the Performa valve which may help reduced gear damage ( but not eliminate it ).

see: http://www.softenerparts.com/Camshaft_263_Performa_Backwash_Gray_1035624_p/ap1035624.htm

and an UPGRADE is Available, SEE:

http://www.softenerparts.com/740_Upgrade_Kit_Performa_263_268_Logix_Electronic_p/ap3021045.htm

This is the best way to solve the problem of gears breaking, as the 740 Logix Timer only uses one larger drive gear and motor. For more about our 440i warranty policy, SEE:

440ihv-timer-assembly-warranty-policy.html

Fleck 5600 parts rebuild with or without replacing the Timer Motor

Your parts rebuild kit should also contain one, 1/30th timer motor. When
the piston gets stuck in the seals or is very hard to drive thru
regeneration, the timer motor's internal gears strip out. So if someone
was
to rebuild their fleck 5600, it would still get stuck in cycle.

* Thank you for your comment.
I believe it is only true about 5% of the time. That is my experience from
years of "rebuilding" valves personally ( since 1989 ), and also selling
hundreds of rebuild kits online ( since 1999 ).
We mention you might need a new timer motor in our How to Rebuild guide,
but
I feel it would be unfair to tell Every One they needed to replace the
motor
at the same time they replace the Pistons & Seals.

Microline Filters S7125 and S7128 are Different

Customer Writes: I have an aquapro TFC-4 RO system installed in my home. I need replacement filters ( S7125 and S7128 ) and am having a hard time locating them. I see filters labeled as for TFC-4 on your website, but I'm not sure if they are what I'm looking for. Can you please confirm if they are compatible?

*As shown in the photo below, the two styles are very different.

The third party unit ( there are about a dozen proprietary "Brands" which uses a Microline S7125 GAC Post, and S7128 carbon sediment prefilter which you will NOT Find on our website. These are not directly interchangeable, but there is a way to "adapt" your system for use of "standard", long, thinner versions that are more readily available, and generally less expensive to purchase.

The dimensions of S7125 and S7128 filter are 2 and 3/8 inches in diameter and 9.5 inches long (if you count the spout at the top.)

* We stock and sell the common Microline 11 1/2" length replacement filter cartridges. To adapt from having to use the shorter proprietary version, and start using the longer "standard" version, you must replace the sump housings ( change all 3 if changing the Membrane too ) with longer version of the housing ( our PN S7029-09 ). see Microline New Sump Housing S7029-09

Here is the Short Fatter Filter ( S7125 ) compared to the Longer Microline S7025 we sell:

Water Flowing to Salt Tank after replacing Brine Valve Piston Assembly Fleck part 60032

Hi , I just received a new repair kit # 56PSKIT and have installed it, however it now puts too much water into the brine tank, so much so the float in the brine tank rises and shuts it off. What have I done wrong? I thought I followed the instructions to a T. Please advise

** Perhaps when you replaced the Brine Valve Piston Assembly ( 60032 ) you accidentally pulled out the oring ( 13302 ) that sits in the bottom of the hole which the valve is installed in.

Or at least the oring came out 1/2 way, and you have jammed the Brine Valve onto the oring and it is not sitting flat.

** Remove the Brine valve and look in the hole for this oring. If you do not see it, look on the floor around the unit. If you have lost it, you can use the one that is on your old Brine Valve, as there is another 13302 oring on the Brine Valve ( it is on the white plastic portion of the assembly ). And of course we sell new ones at Softenerparts.com.

Handling Charges in the U.K.

Many thanks for the excellent service. I believe my package is waiting for me to collect it from the Post Office. The reason for this note is that you may wish to draw to the attention of folk buying from the UK, the fact that our Post Office charges approx $16 to cover their handling of the package through our customs!!!

Quite a shock to me having paid only $55 for the parts. I'm still happy with the service and your prices. Keep up the great work.

Update: The post office charges for collecting any duty and taxes due in the UK. I was only charged tax – around $9 which I'm happy to pay but the post office charges $16 for collecting the tax for the inland revenue (customs). Goods under $36 (£18) don't attract the charges.

How to Set Meter without the People or Hardness Labels on Fleck Econominder Valves

Andrew,


Thank you for the very prompt shipping of my Fleck 5600 Econominder Controller. I've purchased two items from you and both times the shipping has been excellent.


I have a question though. As you can see in the attached photo the old controller had a "People Dial" and a "Water Hardness Dial". I used that to set my controller (e.g. I have 3 people here and the hardness is about 15). The new controller does not have either.


What is the appropriate way to set this controller given my prior settings at 3 people and a hardness of about 15?


Thank you,

Mike S.      Mesa, AZ



*** Great Question:
We do not use the People and Hardness Labels on our replacement Econominder Valves and Power Heads, because they are tank specific. For example, the one in the photo is made for a Resin Capacity of 24,000 ( 24K CAP ), and would be incorrect to use on any other size resin tank. To avoid getting the wrong label ( and they do not come in "all sizes", only 2 or 3 ), we do not use any labels. In your case, you could set the "white" dot to the number 14, to match how your old valve was set. If you have a common One Cu.Ft. system ( usually a 9 x 48 resin tank ), then this is about where you want to be set, as your "working" capacity is about 1,600 gallons.

Here is how to figure meter settings,

 The setting ( each digit equals 100 gallons ) on the 5600 meter determines how much water is used before a regeneration is run ( at 2 a.m. ).
It does not regenerate every night, but only as water usage dictates the need.

To compute the proper setting of the program meter wheel ( dial on the front of control ), you must know your hardness ( & iron level, if any ).
You also must know the capacity of your resin tank.
The average size resin tank is 9" x 48" and holds one cubic foot of resin. Resin has a maximum capacity of 32,000 grains removal ( when regenerated with about 18 lbs. of salt ).
Softeners should be sized and set to work at 75% capacity ( which requires half as much salt ).
With the capacity and the hardness level known ( add 3 grains hardness for each ppm of iron present in the water ), you are ready to set your program wheel.


Computing Gallon Setting

Take the grains capacity of your resin tank times 75% ( 0.75 ) divided by hardness ( in grains ),
then subtract 75 gallons per person using the water as a reserve.



Example: 32,000 grains x .75 = 24,000 divide by 20 grains hardness = 1,200 gallons - 150 ( 2 people ) = 1,050 setting.


You set the gallons by lifting the clear portion of the program wheel, and align the white dot with the number of gallons you wish the unit to use prior to initiating a regenerate ( the night following the meter reaching Zero ).


Also the salt setting should be 9 lbs. per cu. ft. of resins ( 32,000 grains ).
You can find this adjustment on the "Brine Cam" gear inside the back of your control head. It is a small halve moon shaped piece that it held on to the Brine Cam with one screw. It has a small pointer which indicates the pounds of salt to be used per regeneration.


If you do not know your resin tank capacity, send us the tank's height and diameter, and we will let you know how much resin is normally used in your size tank. We will also do the rest of the math for you, if provide the hardness & iron levels ( note: most "city" water does not contain iron ). Also, you might need to know that 17.1 ppm of hardness = 1 grain of hardness.



How To Move Program Wheel To Set Gallons:


1 ) The "locking" teeth are under the part that says ( x100 ), so this is the critical area that must lift.
2 ) It is VERY HELPFUL ( maybe NECESSARY ) if you hold the Black Gear "down" while pulling up on the Clear portion.
3 ) Turn the Clear Portion counter clockwise, and Black Gear Clockwise
4 ) Line up "white" dot with the gallon setting you've computed.

SEE HOW TO VIDEO:

How To Move Program Wheel To Set Gallons

Common Tank Sizes and Amount of Resins Inside

8" x 35" 0.64 cu. ft. ( 20,480 grains )

8" x 44" 0.75 cu. ft. ( 24,000 grains )

9" x 35" 0.75 cu. ft. ( 24,000 grains )

9" x 40" 1.00 cu.ft. ( 32,000 grains )

9" x 48" 1.00 cu. ft. ( 32,000 grains )

10" x 35" 1.00 cu. ft.( 32,000 grains )

10" x 40" 1.00 cu .ft. ( 32,000 grains )

10" x 44" 1.25 cu. ft. ( 40,000 grains )

10" x 54" 1.50 cu. ft. ( 48,0000 grains )

12" x 52" 2.00 cu. ft. ( 64,0000 grains )

Remember to divide the total grains by 0.75 ( 75% ), as that is the true "working" capacity when using 9 lbs. of salt per cu.ft. per regeneration. To achieve maximum capacity requires 16 lbs. of salt per cu.ft. And since almost double the amount of salt is required to get that extra 25% of capacity, it is not recommended ( nor common practice ). One last note: 6 lbs. per cu.ft. is considered the minimum salt dosage, and should never be that low if you have iron in your water. 6 lbs. yields between 50 - 65% of total capacity ( depends on your water's total dissolved solids ), and is not recommended in most cases.