Sunday, January 31, 2010
Refilling when it should Sucking Water out of Salt Tank ( Brine Rinse cycle ) Fleck Valve
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First, NOTE: There are several causes of High Water in the Brine Tank, see:
high-water-in-brine-tank-problems
But if you suspect an internal leak, or you have ruled out simple clogs or loose fitting, then you need to look a little further.
Internal leakage would be visible, in the form of Scratched Main Piston ( any Fleck model ), or damaged ( visibly noticeable ) or dried out ( due to age - over 10 years or more )rubber SEALS ( in the Seals & Spacers area of the Main Piston ), or Visibly cracked Injector Nozzle or Throat ( you must remove BOTH for proper inspection, as it would be either portion damaged ).
see: Inspecting Injector and Screen video
If the parts check out, then it's time to check out your Drain Flow. You need to check the flow rate ( at the very END of your drain hose ). It should be 2 gpm ( average 9" diameter tank used, 8" = 1.5 gpm , 10" = 2.4 gpm ) during BACKWASH cycle ( not the Brine Rinse cycle, as that is always 50% less than the BACKWASH flow rate ).
If it is less, then the problem will be either the Drain Hose is partially clogged ( deposits of hardness and iron can build up inside over the years ), OR something is partially blocking the small hole in your DLFC Button.
see this Video on the subject: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvZMkWihusI
The fact that you have water flowing into the salt tank during the suction cycle can only be one of the following:
1 ) Badly scratched ( you would be able SEE this ) Main Piston
2 ) Badly damaged Seal in the main piston area ( or one missing, should be 5 seals and 4 spacers for Fleck 5600 )
3 ) Damaged Injector SET ( either the Nozzle or the Throat behind it is cracked...did you check both? )
4 ) Back pressure from the DRAIN ( either something blocking the DLFC button, or the drain hose it's self )
Monday, January 25, 2010
Dishwasher Glassware Etching Cause Explained
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Shipping Questions: When, How Long, From Where, What Methods
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Shipping of Your Order and Returns
Softenerparts.com
752 Commerce DR Unit 12
Venice, FL, 34292-1744
U.S.A.
Return Policy and ProcedureA Shipping Notification with Delivery Confirmation or UPS Tracking Number will be emailed the day your order is shipped. Non Customers should email their questions - free assistance by email. Be sure to check your SPAM or BULK mail folders, as replies from us can end up there ( until you add us to your address book ).
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Click Here to E-mail Questions, support@softenerparts.com * If you have questions about a particular order, please include your order number.Twin Alternating Brine Failure on ONE Tank Only
THEN, the problem is an internal leak of the LOWER Piston & Seals ( or cage rotor on the 8500 ).
Replacing these ( Lower Main Piston and Seals & Spacers Kit - Cage Rotor on 8500 ) should solve the problem. While a rare problem to have, I just had another customer call about this exact problem.
Thus, the new article explaining this unique repair issue.
A Single Tank ( valve on one Resin Tank ) System will also fail to draw brine ( suction of the salt water ) if the valve has internal seal problem.
This is more common on the rotary type valves ( Ecowater's valve used in Sears Kenmore, GE Smartwater, North Star, and others ), but can occur on any older ( 10 plus years ) valve, due to worn out Piston & Seal ( Fleck models ) and Valve Disc ( Autotrol Models ). It's one of the half dozen reason listed in our # 1 FAQ article about high water in the brine tank ( because it is not sucking any out ).
Friday, January 22, 2010
Freeze Damage to Air Check Body Autotrol 255
So be sure to check this part if you are having problems with high water in the brine tank, and no soft water in the home since these extreme low temperatures.
The Air Check - New Style ( kit 1032416 or 1032417 = Air Check Kit, 1/4" Male ) used from about 1993 to present.
Can NOT be used in place of the old style ( see part # AP36F ).
Used only on late model Autotrol 155 and all 255 water softener valves.
The part number on the Air Check body is listed in some manuals as 100C142-001 and some as 1031939.
Previous part # 1032416 is listed as 1032417 in newer owners manuals for this Kit having 1/4" male thread output connection most commonly used, AND includes
( 1 ) clear air check body,
(1 )black floating ball,(2 ) long screws, o-ring, and tube of silicone.
NOTE: Be sure to use Teflon Tape or similar product ( like our Lock Leak ) on the male Threads of the Air Check ( where the female fitting must thread on to ). It is NECESSARY, or it will develop an "air" leak.
Friday, January 8, 2010
Average Salt Amount Needed and Normal Water Level In Brine Tank
Typically, 9 lbs for 8 - 9 inch tanks, and 12 lbs. of 10" tanks is average. If there is a lot of iron ( over 2 ppm ) or if the water is really hard ( over 25 grains ), then 2 - 4 lbs. extra should be used.
So, an average residential system will use 6 - 12 lbs of salt per regeneration at least once a week. Very hard water, or water high in iron, may require regenerating every 2 or 3 days. The result is you will be using at least 30 - 40 lbs. of salt per month if hardness is not too high, or amount of water used low. Well water ( usually very hard and often containing iron ) will commonly require using 80 - 120 lbs. of salt per month. Simply multiply the pounds of salt per regeneration times the number of regenerations in a month to calculate your monthly average usage.
P.S. If you run out of Salt, don't expect to have soft water after a few days. And it may take more than one regeneration to get the water feeling soft again once you've added salt. I recommend keeping the salt level above the water level in your Brine Tank. When you start seeing the water level ( normally between 6 - 12 inches ) then it's time to think about adding more salt ( 40 - 120 lbs. ). * Does it matter which type of salt is used? Pellets or solar salt crystals? Is one better than the other?