Technetic - Series 1010 Bypass Valve

Technetic 1000 and Plus 1000i - used Series 1010 Bypass Valve.
And many have / will become cracked and start leaking.

The By Pass ( 1010 ) is obsolete, and no longer available from any known source ( has not been for several years ).

Repair Option:

Remove By Pass, and then you can screw the Adapter Nuts directly to the Threads on the Valve Body.
You will find / see these threads on the actual Valve Body, once you remove the defective By Pass.
You can continue to use your Technetic control head, only now without having the manufacturer's By Pass valve.

General Ionics Valve or Tank Replacement

The General Ionics valve and tank are proprietary in design.

Many key parts of the valve ( like main piston and seal kit ) are proprietary, and available only from a General Ionics dealer. NOTE: Their new name is Puronics.

The tank will not accept any "standard" valve.

The Ionics tank has smaller opening and finer thread, and will ONLY work with another General Ionics valve.

Our recommendation is: Purchase a New TANK, and a new VALVE ( any Fleck ) and you can re-use the media ( resin ) and the Brine Tank from the old Ionics system.

See Replacement Tanks here:

http://www.softnerparts.com/category/3100.media_tanks/

See Replacement Fleck valves here:

http://www.softnerparts.com/category/1100.fleck/

Sorry we can not provide repair parts you might need for this valve.

It shares a few parts with standard Fleck Valves, but all the "key" parts are proprietary in design, to force you to use Ionics Dealer for all Service.

Error Codes Sears, GE, NorthStar Timers

*** Error Code 01, 02, 03 or 04 can be the SWITCH, the wiring connection to the switch and back of circuit board,

OR

it could be a weak motor

OR it could be "drag" on the motor because the Rotor Disc is worn

OR it could be the Seal Kit and Rotor Disc need replacing.

* It's not "cut and dry".

Any or a combination of these can be the reason.

see:

http://www.softnerparts.com/category/2600.sears.troubleshooting/

Error Codes mean the circuit board is not getting the "signal" from the switch ( that is riding the Cam Gear ) that it has reach the next Cycle in the proper amount of time.

The circuit board is telling the motor to turn ... sending it power, and the circuit board is programmed to wait for the next "signal" from the switch only so long before it will "sense" there is a problem.

Result is you see an Error Code.

I always recommend checking each component involved, starting with the switch.

Best case, you've got a loose connection in your wiring or the switch is bad.

Worst case, you need a new motor, rotor and seal kit.

** Wiring harness is critical, so be careful inspect the connections to the Switch or Motor ( if it is failing to move ) as there could be a poor connection.

Problem can be corrision of the harness or the pins on the back of the PWA ( timer ) circuit board.

This could include a "cold soldier" joint at the pins where they "attach" to the circuit board.

* All the items and prices can be found on our website.

see:

http://www.softnerparts.com/category/2600.sears/

Air in water lines after Softener Regenerates

If you notice AIR in the water lines the morning after your softener has regenerated, AND the brine water level is normal ( meaning the valve has been sucking the water out and refilling properly ), then the problem is caused by the "air check" failing to close ( check ). For most systems this "air check" is in the salt tank at the bottom of the Brine Pick Up Assembly. Often this is simply a ball that floats inside a cylinder ( that is slotted ). Some use a rod and plunger that seals off the flow ( air ) once the water level reaches the bottom ( as it does normally in the Brine Rinse cycle ). Why Air Check Is Necessary.

Brine suction / Rinse cycle last 50 minutes.

It takes only 20 minutes to suck out all the salt water.

Valve continues to create suction, while slowly "rinsing" the salt out of the resin tank.

Air Check is what prevents air from getting sucked into the softener's resin tank.

If you get AIR, yours is NOT "checking".

You can try removing and cleaning up, or you can replace with new one. Our PN FP60002 or BP1002 are two choices that work for many "brands". For SEARS, NorthStar, GE Smartwater, Whirlpool types, the Brine Assembly is PN 7116488 or 7123689, also called WS15X10005 for GE models. *** NOTE: If you have this "air" in your water lines problem, and your salt tank is over FULL of water, then you simply have an "air leak" between the Valve and the Brine Pick Up Assembly. The valve is sucking air the whole Brine Rinse cycle, and then adding ( Refill cycle ) for the next regeneration. You will also have hard water, since your resin are not getting "recharged" by the salt water.

Autotrol Logix Timer Programming Instructions

Best place to start is the un-programmed state:

Press and hold "set" ( square ) and "down" ( arrow ) buttons together for 5 seconds.

Then press and hold "set" ( square ) button for 5 seconds.

You will now see three flashing lines:

* First Step is Valve type, Your Logix Timer is installed on.

Use the arrows to choose ( select ) the letter "F" if used on Backwash Only Valve, otherwise ( if water softener ) you will be setting the Resin Capacity of your Water Softener.

Step Two: Resin capacity.

Capacities:

0.75 for 24K ( 3/4 cu.ft. )- most 8" diameter tanks

1.0 for 32K ( 1 cu.ft. ) - most 9" diameter tanks

1.25 for 40K ( 1.25 cu.ft.)

1.50 for 48K ( 1.50 cu.ft. ) - all 10" x 54" tanks

2.0 for 64K ( 2 cu.ft.) - most 12" diameter tanks

Press the set button to accept.

A. Time of day will be displayed.

1. Press the set button to make it flash.

2. Use arrows to set correct time ( note PM is indicated, and no indication is AM ).

3. Press the set button to accept.

B. Set day of week. Repeat steps 1,2, and 3 above.

C. Set time of regeneration ( typical 2:00 a.m. is used ). Repeat steps 1,2, and 3 above.

D. Set calendar override (for demand units) or days to regenerate (for timer units).

Repeat steps 1,2, and 3 above.

NOTE: On demand units will normally be set to “0”.

E. Set salt dosage. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 above.

NOTE: You have “L” for low, “S” for standard, and “H” for high.

Standard is the most efficient. NOTE: Newer Logix 742, and 762 should be 9 lbs. per cu.ft. as standard. You won't see L,S, or H.

F. Set estimated capacity. * Do Not Set -

NOTE: Estimated capacity is calculated by the unit. You do not want to change this value.

G. Set hardness level of your water ( Number of GRAINS Hardness - Adding 3 for each 1 ppm of Iron in water ). Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 above.

The unit will now display the time.

To put in Manual Regeneration

For preset time to regenerate: Press and release manual regeneration button.

For immediate regeneration: Press and hold manual regeneration button for 5 seconds.

The GE Osmonic Autotrol Valves 255 and 268 have been available with the Logix electronic controls for several years now ( 740 and 760, now 742 and 762 ). This 1 minute video shows how to start a manual regeneration for tonight or immediate start.

***

Here are the 740 and 760 programming steps as show in the Owner's Manual.

Watch the Programming Steps to see how simple it is

440iHV Timer Assembly WARRANTY Policy of Softenerparts.com

*** Full warranty policy for the 440iHV timer assemblies.

***********************************************

90 days free exchange warranty.
We ship you a replacement ( and pay postage to you )
Then you return the defective one in same box ( and you pay for return postage to us )

91 - 365 day exchange warranty with $ 6.00 S & H fee ( you place a new order, and then get credit for ITEM upon return ).

*** Remaining years 2 - 5 = parts warranty ( year 2 - 5, has 15% handling fee plus S & H fee ).

Also applies to timers purchased from some one besides us, but still under the 5 year date of manufacturer warranty ( date code is part of the SERIAL Number on the back of the Timer Assembly ).

Minimum Shipping and Handling for small items, explanation

* Our minimum $ 6.00 shipping and handling is to help cover the many costs of processing even the smallest order as items under $ 20.00 include very little "profit".
We have many expenses that add up.
This includes postage for "package" ( not envelope rate ) with delivery confirmation ( or UPS ground which is even more ), the bubbled envelope ( or box we use ), the thermal label, the payment processing fees ( Credit cards run about $ 1.00 minimum ) including shopping "cart" fees ( combined average 5% ), and last but not least is labor ( averaging $ 2.00 per order shipped ).
Even the smallest of items cost us at least $ 4.00 to process and ship.

Without the minimum, it would not be profitable to sell small parts or fill low cost single item orders.
We would need to have a minimum order size ( as most of our suppliers have ) such as $ 30, $ 50, or $ 100.
Or "inflate" the cost of smaller items ( as some of our competitors have done who offer "free shipping" - Note shipping is not really free for anyone ), which would not be fair to our customers who purchase larger quantities of these small items.

Odor - Sulfur (Hydrogen Sulfide) in your water

Hydrogen sulfide is a gas that causes an obnoxious rotten egg odor in your water. Hydrogen sulfide is caused by rotting and decaying organic matter in the underground aquifer. Hydrogen sulfide ( H2S ) will ruin your silverware, eat holes in copper used in many appliances, and generally stink up your whole house.
It is common in all parts of the world, and as a rule, the deeper the well, the more likely it will contain this gas.

Also, the level in the water will change during the coarse of the year ( the dry seasons tend to have higher levels as the water table drops ), and the more water pumped at one time ( things like lawn watering, or even back to back loads of laundry ) will cause the level of hydrogen sulfide to increase.

And the LEVEL ( measured in ppm ) is what determines the type and size of filtration required to remove the odor 100% ( as removing only 99% still results in a bad odor from the water ).

The two methods for removal are Oxidization ( aeration, chlorination, and various oxidizing Media in a tank ), and Absorption ( by activated carbon ), or a combination of the two.

The proper size equipment, levels of chemicals, and frequency of cleaning all depend on the amount of H2S in the water.
So, the first thing you need to do, before purchasing or adjusting equipment for removal is to get an accurate test of the level in the water.

This is best done onsite after running the source water for about 5 minutes. Professional water treatment dealers have the test kits to accurately measure the levels in your water source, and will often test for free ( of course they will want to sell you some equipment too ), or kits can be purchased online ( $ 50 - $ 100 is the common price range for a professional kit ).

Water Soft WSCB-32D is Autotrol 255 460i or Fleck 5600 SE

Just to confirm. Our softener is WaterSoft model WSCB-32D. I was told by CSI Control, who referred me to you, that the control valve is 255 460I.
* Yes, that is correct 90% of the time. The Valve most commonly used on the WaterSoft model WSCB-32D is simply the common Autotrol 255 series valve and the timer used is the electronic 460i metered demand regeneration control. So, you will find any and all parts for your softener on our website (www.softenerparts.com ).
Just look under Autotrol Repair Parts and sub-category of Autotrol 255 for diagrams and parts. Also, be sure to look at our Do It Yourself Repair pages for service and program information for the 255 valve and the 460i timer used on your Water Soft WS ( water soft ) CB ( cabinet ) 32 ( 32,000 grain = 1 cu.ft. ) D ( demand ) softener.
We keep all these parts in stock and will ship your online order within 24 hours. * NOTE: A few of the later models ( same Water Soft model number ) used the Fleck 5600 SE ( simple electronics ) control valve.
We have the parts for this version also.

* Neither the Autotrol 255/460i or Fleck 5600SE Valves have their names on them, so place compare to the photos of these valves to determine which "brand" you have.

Refilling when it should Sucking Water out of Salt Tank ( Brine Rinse cycle ) Fleck Valve

When Water is coming out of the Valve during the Brine Rinse Cycle ( when suction should be drawing water out, NOT putting water in ), there are several things to check / look for as the source of the problem.
********************************
First, NOTE: There are several causes of High Water in the Brine Tank, see:
high-water-in-brine-tank-problems
But if you suspect an internal leak, or you have ruled out simple clogs or loose fitting, then you need to look a little further.
Internal leakage would be visible, in the form of Scratched Main Piston ( any Fleck model ), or damaged ( visibly noticeable ) or dried out ( due to age - over 10 years or more )rubber SEALS ( in the Seals & Spacers area of the Main Piston ), or Visibly cracked Injector Nozzle or Throat ( you must remove BOTH for proper inspection, as it would be either portion damaged ).
see: Inspecting Injector and Screen video
If the parts check out, then it's time to check out your Drain Flow. You need to check the flow rate ( at the very END of your drain hose ). It should be 2 gpm ( average 9" diameter tank used, 8" = 1.5 gpm , 10" = 2.4 gpm ) during BACKWASH cycle ( not the Brine Rinse cycle, as that is always 50% less than the BACKWASH flow rate ).
If it is less, then the problem will be either the Drain Hose is partially clogged ( deposits of hardness and iron can build up inside over the years ), OR something is partially blocking the small hole in your DLFC Button.
see this Video on the subject: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvZMkWihusI
The fact that you have water flowing into the salt tank during the suction cycle can only be one of the following:
1 ) Badly scratched ( you would be able SEE this ) Main Piston
2 ) Badly damaged Seal in the main piston area ( or one missing, should be 5 seals and 4 spacers for Fleck 5600 )
3 ) Damaged Injector SET ( either the Nozzle or the Throat behind it is cracked...did you check both? )
4 ) Back pressure from the DRAIN ( either something blocking the DLFC button, or the drain hose it's self )

Dishwasher Glassware Etching Cause Explained

My glassware in the dishwasher looks spotty, why? The spotty or etched look is not deposits on the glass. It is the actual glass being "eaten" by the soap used. The detergent ( tri-sodium phosphate ) used to wash the dishes is the source of this problem. The combination of too much detergent ( because very little is actually needed when you have a water softener ), and the heat ( temperatures of 140 degrees or higher contribute to this reaction ). To stop this from happening, you must: 1 ) Use less detergent 2 ) Make sure the water temperature is less than 140 degress. For more technical answer, see: http://www.wqa.org/sitelogic.cfm?ID=351

Shipping Questions: When, How Long, From Where, What Methods

All Items are Brand New - 99.5% IN STOCK for SAME DAY Shipping
We Do Not sell Used, Rebuilt or Refurbished Products.

Orders shipped same business day before 3 p.m. EST by U.S. Mail, or UPS Ground ( heavy items ) for a FLAT Rate of $ 6.00 shipping and handling.
You can select Priority Mail ( under 10 lbs. ) or Express Mail ( under 10 lbs. & before 3 p.m. EST )


International Orders Welcomed ( weighing less than 10 lbs.).
We offer Shipping by First Class ( 1 - 4 weeks delivery time )
or Express Air Mail ( 5 - 10 days delivery depending on country ).
For tracking of package outside USA, you must select Express Mail option.
For a QUOTE simply place items in your "Shopping Cart", then fill out your ship to address.
NOTE: In many countries you will be required to pay an Import or VAT duty upon delivery. This is NOT included in the price you pay us. It is a tax imposed and collected by your country. To determine the amount you will owe, you will need to check with your local authorities, or you might try this website,
Duty Calculator Web Link

Methods of PAYMENT include Credit or Debit Card, PAYPAL, or Money Order
Also, we offer a place to enter Order Notes, after entering your name and address info.

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Orders should be placed using our secure on line shopping cart system.
For special requests or for items not listed please contact us by email

Our Mailing and Return Ship To Address is:

Softenerparts.com
752 Commerce DR Unit 12
Venice, FL 34292-1744
U.S.A.

We ship from primarily from Florida ( all small parts by U.S. Mail and some large items shipped by UPS ), but also from Ohio, and Arizona for UPS shipments of larger items over 10 lbs ( like Resins and Tanks ).

After Sale Customer Support
Phone number Emailed with your Order Receipt.
Non Customers should email their questions and we will assist with answers.
9 a.m. to 7 p.m. EST Monday - Saturday,
and Sunday 1 p.m. - 6 p.m.


NOTE: Orders should be placed Online.
Click Here to E-mail Questions, support@softenerparts.com
* If you have questions about a particular order, please include your order number.

Shipping of Your Order and Returns

Our Mailing and Return Ship To Address is:

Softenerparts.com

752 Commerce DR Unit 12

Venice, FL, 34292-1744

U.S.A. Return Policy and Procedure

90 day money back - Or exchange.

Only a 15 % restocking fee + shipping and handling cost if return is your mistake ( no restocking fee if the mistake is ours or you make a new "replacement" order with us, because you ended up needing a different part or an upgrade of your valve from us ).

1 year warranty on non-electrical parts purchased ( some items have longer warranties ).

Most items shipped within 24 hours of your order receipt.

Warranties and replacements are handled through us, not the manufacturer ( though many parts can be warranted through a network of dealers handling Fleck or Autotrol Valves ).

To Return any item, simply ship back by method of your choosing and include a note explaining why you are returning the item. And an email letting us know how and when you ship package back to us, would be appreciated.

All returns must be unused and in unopened original packaging and include all items and manuals originally shipped ( unless it is a part covered under "warranty" and we are exchanging for new working replacement, then we would expect the part returned to be "used", and that's okay. We just don't want any "cartridge filters","RO Membranes", or Sealed Oring Kits returned that are Opened, Noticably Used, or Missing parts or printed directions, if you expect a refund.

Please include your Name and Original Order Number. And don't forget a note explaining why it's being returned. This will help us process your return quickly and issue any refund due.

We will either give you full credit towards an exchange or partial credit APPLIED directly to your credit card, PayPal account or send a refund by check ( whatever method you used to pay us, we will use to issue your refund or credit ). WHEN WILL ORDER BE SHIPPED? We try to ship the same day, if order received in time ( typically before 3 p.m. EST ). When orders include both heavy items and small parts, the order may be divided ( small parts mailed, and heavy items shipped UPS Ground ).

A Shipping Notification with Delivery Confirmation or UPS Tracking Number will be emailed the day your order is shipped. Non Customers should email their questions - free assistance by email. Be sure to check your SPAM or BULK mail folders, as replies from us can end up there ( until you add us to your address book ).

NOTE: Orders should be placed Online.

Info on WHY email is preferred over Phone calls.

Click Here to E-mail Questions, support@softenerparts.com

* If you have questions about a particular order, please include your order number.

Twin Alternating Brine Failure on ONE Tank Only

If your system uses one the twin alternating control valves ( common models are Fleck 9000, 9100, 8500, TwinFlo 100E, and Fleck 9500 ), and the Brine Suction cycle is failing to draw up the Brine from the Salt tank when unit is operating off one tank, but okay on the other ( i.e. when on Tank 1, works great, but when switches to tank 2, brine suction is not created ),
THEN, the problem is an internal leak of the LOWER Piston & Seals ( or cage rotor on the 8500 ).
Replacing these ( Lower Main Piston and Seals & Spacers Kit - Cage Rotor on 8500 ) should solve the problem. While a rare problem to have, I just had another customer call about this exact problem.
Thus, the new article explaining this unique repair issue.

A Single Tank ( valve on one Resin Tank ) System will also fail to draw brine ( suction of the salt water ) if the valve has internal seal problem.
This is more common on the rotary type valves ( Ecowater's valve used in Sears Kenmore, GE Smartwater, North Star, and others ), but can occur on any older ( 10 plus years ) valve, due to worn out Piston & Seal ( Fleck models ) and Valve Disc ( Autotrol Models ). It's one of the half dozen reason listed in our # 1 FAQ article about high water in the brine tank ( because it is not sucking any out ).

Freeze Damage to Air Check Body Autotrol 255

Recent Hard Freeze and Colder than normal Winter Temperatures have caused a lot of damage to the sight glass of the Autotrol water softener model 255.
So be sure to check this part if you are having problems with high water in the brine tank, and no soft water in the home since these extreme low temperatures.
The Air Check - New Style ( kit 1032416 or 1032417 = Air Check Kit, 1/4" Male ) used from about 1993 to present.
Can NOT be used in place of the old style ( see part # AP36F ).
Used only on late model Autotrol 155 and all 255 water softener valves.

The part number on the Air Check body is listed in some manuals as 100C142-001 and some as 1031939.

Previous part # 1032416 is listed as 1032417 in newer owners manuals for this Kit having 1/4" male thread output connection most commonly used, AND includes
( 1 ) clear air check body,
(1 )black floating ball,(2 ) long screws, o-ring, and tube of silicone.

NOTE: Be sure to use Teflon Tape or similar product ( like our Lock Leak ) on the male Threads of the Air Check ( where the female fitting must thread on to ). It is NECESSARY, or it will develop an "air" leak.

Average Salt Amount Needed and Normal Water Level In Brine Tank

The amount of salt needed to properly recharge a water softener is mostly based on the amount of resins being recharged. 3/4 cu.ft. resin = 6 - 9 lbs. 1 cu.ft. resin = 8 - 10 lbs. 1.5 cu.ft resin = 12 - 15 lbs.

Typically, 9 lbs for 8 - 9 inch tanks, and 12 lbs. of 10" tanks is average. If there is a lot of iron ( over 2 ppm ) or if the water is really hard ( over 25 grains ), then 2 - 4 lbs. extra should be used.

So, an average residential system will use 6 - 12 lbs of salt per regeneration at least once a week. Very hard water, or water high in iron, may require regenerating every 2 or 3 days. The result is you will be using at least 30 - 40 lbs. of salt per month if hardness is not too high, or amount of water used low. Well water ( usually very hard and often containing iron ) will commonly require using 80 - 120 lbs. of salt per month. Simply multiply the pounds of salt per regeneration times the number of regenerations in a month to calculate your monthly average usage.

P.S. If you run out of Salt, don't expect to have soft water after a few days. And it may take more than one regeneration to get the water feeling soft again once you've added salt. I recommend keeping the salt level above the water level in your Brine Tank. When you start seeing the water level ( normally between 6 - 12 inches ) then it's time to think about adding more salt ( 40 - 120 lbs. ). * Does it matter which type of salt is used? Pellets or solar salt crystals? Is one better than the other?

* Either will work.

Recommend the solar salt crystals as they dissolve 100%, as opposed to the Pellets that leave an un-dissolved residue in the bottom of the brine tank. And this residue builds up until is clogs the float of the brine water in and especially, out of the salt tank. Requiring that the tank be dumped, emptied, and re-filled with new salt ( plus 4 gallons new water ) every 1 - 2 years on average.