Low Water Flow from Reverse Osmosis System

The number one reason for low water flow from a reverse osmosis system is low air pressure in the holding tank.

( Note: Reason number two is clogged pre-filter, so check that too ).

The Problem: Low Volume and Poor Pressure
Little to No air pressure will result in very little water being pushed out of the holding tank. You will have a full and heavy holding tank, but without the air pressure, you'll never get much water out of the tank. Too much air pressure ( say over 10 psi on a small tank ) will result in good water flow but will severely limit the amount of water that can be stored in the holding tank. So, it is recommended to put 8 psi of air in your under the sink reverse osmosis holding tank. If you get water coming out of the air valve, then it is time to purchase a new holding tank.

To Check:
With all possible water drained from the holding tank, you want to get an air pressure reading of 8 PSI of air pressure. There is a "tire" valve on your holding tank somewhere ( usually the bottom ). You really should use a special low pressure air gauge. One that shows the air pressure in one pound increments starting with one pound. The average tire gauge starts at 5 or 10 lbs. psi.

 

Tank Replacement Questions and Answers:

Do you just hook up the tank and start using it?  If not, will it come with instructions?

 

* Simply turn off the RO incoming water, open your RO faucet to relieve any pressure. Disconnect tubing at the Tank shut off.

 

* You will unscrew the shut off elbow that is on your old tank and you can re-use it on your new tank.

Just be sure to use about 3 layers of Teflon Tape on the threads of the new tank,

AND do not over tighten the elbow fitting, or you will crack it.

We sell new shut off elbows, and they should be available locally where ever plumbing supplies are sold.

The thread size on the tank is called 1/4" mpt. And the tubing size connection will be either 1/4" or 3/8" O.D. ( depends on what size your system uses, both are common ).

 

* Also note, the tank comes pre-charged. You should not need to add any air to it.

 

More on Replacement TANK, see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/2432TANKWH/

 

New Timer Motor 18743 kicks the unit into 'REGEN', but that's as far as it will go.

If you install a new Fleck 5600 motor timer and it does keep the time o.k. and even kicks the unit into 'REGEN',

but that's as far as it will go,

THEN:

* It is possible you have dropped the curved washer that sits behind the motor mounting plate on older models.

see:

13299 Curved Washer Older Fleck 5600

* It's job is to apply a small amount of tension to the 2 drive gears behind the motor mounting plate. The newer plates do not require the washer,

see:

http://www.softenerparts.com/Motor_Mounting_Plate_Fleck_5600_PN_13175_p/3413175.htm

* Check your plate to see if it is FLAT or "beveled". If FLAT look for the washer, or order one ( or a new metal plate ).

* If you have the newer mounting plate already, then the problem could be you do not have it securely ( or completely ) screwed down into the plastic housing ( or the plastic at one of the 2 screws is cracked ).

Hydrogen Sulfide levels effected by amount of water used and the ground water table

CUSTOMER WRITES:

I have increased the chlorine and it seems to be doing the trick.  Thanks for all your help.  One last question, what did you mean by; Are you using extra water for irrigation lately?  The irrigation water is drawn prior to the treatment system.  How could that be a contributing factor?  

 

** The more water used from the Well, the higher the concentration of hydrogen sulfide you will be "pulling up" from the ground.

Some people have "no" odor, except when they use 50 - 100 gallons or more. And any Well that has hydrogen sulfide already, will have a higher concentration coming from the Well as the water demand increases ( i.e. watering the lawn, filling the swimming pool ) and as the actual water table in the ground drops ( during "dry spells" ).

Once the summer rains begin, and the water table rises back to normal levels, and less water is used, then the level of hydrogen sulfide in the water drops back to "normal" levels.

 

 

Autotrol Valve flow rate problem - Either Resin in Tank, or Valve Discs not opening enough

* Custom Writes:

 

I have a Autotrol 155 which seems to have a low flow rate while in the service mode. This was noticed over a few days due to an electric shower which was unable to operate correctly (either the water was cold or boiling hot) as the flow rate dropped below the shower units operational pressure. One last thing that has been noticed; when there is no other water usage in the house, you can turn a tap/faucet on, the water comes out at full pressure but quickly drops off to a very low flow. If the unit is bypassed then the normal pressure is restored. The unit has been installed for approximately 17 years.

Is there any advice you can shed some light on with?

*** If the water source is chlorinated, it could be the Resin in the tank are breaking down into fine fragments and clogging the bottom distributor.

They can easily be replaced, and this would restore normal flow rates.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.resinreplacement

 

OR if the Timer Assembly is not DOWN and LOCKED in by the Timer Retaining Pin ( 5F ) or the Out Put Connector on the Back of the Timer Assembly is cracked ( 21E ), then the camshaft may not be holding open the # 2 and # 3 Valve Discs to allow proper flow through the Valve.

see:

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/product/AP21E/Camshaft_Out_Put_Connector_Autotrol_21E_or_1031496.html

and

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/6600.autotrol_service_hints.autotrol_155_rebuidling

 

 

Erie 2001 Valve Leaking to Drain or Brine Tank - Cam Sync problem

** Customer shares how to Sync the Cam on an Erie 2001 Rotary Valve

I began by removing the cover of the front of the control module. A thorough examination revealed the two micro switches I mentioned in earlier correspondence.

See picture 001 notice the red rectangle in the lower left. The micro switches are activated by cylinder shaped device by it’s rotation. See picture 002 Notice the little rusty screw(green arrow). That screw allows you to turn the cylinder with out turning the worm gear or the valve body. You see in picture 003 exactly how this occurs. If you depress the micro switch the motor will turn.

I simply used the plug to stop and start the motor until the valve body was in the closed position and then loosened the screw and rotated the cylinder until the cylinder until the recess was at the button on the micro switch. This has seemed to put everything where it needs to be for proper operation.